Suspension - Lowering Spring
- Thread starter TURN3R
- Start date
squarepants
Ex. Club Member
you could chop the std ones...but it would fail the MOT and would be unsafe as in the springs jumping out... lowering springs on there own work fine with std dampers/shocks so yes springs are just a straight swap!
OP
OP
TURN3R
Club Member (Trial)
ok, so if i buy 35mm springs i can put them stright in yeah or will i need to buy shocks aswell??
Is it hard to change springs. (lol)
cheers guys!!
squarepants
Ex. Club Member
yearh...you will NOT need uprated shocks the lowering springs are compatiable with std shocks! rear springs are easy fronts however are not! you will need a spring compressor for the front!
TredderK11
Ex. Club Member
If you have springs and shocks do you need to use a spring compresser too? wondering as i got some HKS springs and shocks FREE (lol) and fitting them on my new micra when I get it next week?
Cheers Tredder
Cheers Tredder
squarepants
Ex. Club Member
if the springs and shocks are seprate (the front springs are not on the the shocks) yes...but if there all one you wont need to, (obv the rear ones will be seprate anyways because the rears are not indipent like the front)
bens851
Ex. Club Member
yeah i lowered my car myself and it took me 2 days but is saved me like £100
the only money it cost me was having the bolts on my front shocks heated out and the bolt on my panard rod heated out too that cost me £20
and then i payed a garage £20 so i cud use their tools (so i could cojmpress and use the air gun to undo the top bolt)
you need a air gun or a special socket so you can undo the top bolt, thats the only trouble.
also the spring compressors are totally ####!!! dont bother buying them, i used car clamp compressors at the garage lol took like 10th of the time!
so yeah watch for seized bolts and the top bolt on the front sus.
apart from that its a such an easy job doing the backs but the panard rod is near impossible to get back in after it is undone, i couldnt do it, i had to drive back to the garage (5 miles) with no panard rod, thought the car was gonna come apart on the corners but apart from that fine lol, the mehanic called me crazy lol but said it wouldnt have damaged the car.
haha what an experience!
but yeah the handeling and stiffness changes dramaticaly!
its lush!
also one question aswell!
are the front shocks on a pre facelift the same as the facelift?
im just thinking of swapping them over when i get my si so i wont have to go through the lark of compressing n that again lol.
gonna get a sus kit most prob so just for temporary
cheers
the only money it cost me was having the bolts on my front shocks heated out and the bolt on my panard rod heated out too that cost me £20
and then i payed a garage £20 so i cud use their tools (so i could cojmpress and use the air gun to undo the top bolt)
you need a air gun or a special socket so you can undo the top bolt, thats the only trouble.
also the spring compressors are totally ####!!! dont bother buying them, i used car clamp compressors at the garage lol took like 10th of the time!
so yeah watch for seized bolts and the top bolt on the front sus.
apart from that its a such an easy job doing the backs but the panard rod is near impossible to get back in after it is undone, i couldnt do it, i had to drive back to the garage (5 miles) with no panard rod, thought the car was gonna come apart on the corners but apart from that fine lol, the mehanic called me crazy lol but said it wouldnt have damaged the car.
haha what an experience!
but yeah the handeling and stiffness changes dramaticaly!
its lush!
also one question aswell!
are the front shocks on a pre facelift the same as the facelift?
im just thinking of swapping them over when i get my si so i wont have to go through the lark of compressing n that again lol.
gonna get a sus kit most prob so just for temporary
cheers
squarepants
Ex. Club Member
the shocks are the same...altough 1.0 and 1.3 shocks have diffrent part numbers :s
bens851
Ex. Club Member
oh, well im gonna b going from 1.0 to 1.3 is it essintial to have the correct part number?
also my lowering springs came off a 1.3 so are they the wrong ones for my 1.0?
squarepants
Ex. Club Member
no they fit, 1.3-1.0 1.0-1.3 there all the same, just the part numbers are diff when you order from nissan, you tell them the number thats on them and the database will bring them straight up, i.e if you went in with 1.0 shocks and gave him the part num thwy would come up on the data base straight away, altough 1.3 wouldnt. with the having diffrent numbers.
i dont know if the 1.3 ones are harder shocks or what not, they could just be the same with a diffrent part number to a 1.0 ones :s the springs are the same so there shouldnt be a diffrance! they will be fine on your new one.
i dont know if the 1.3 ones are harder shocks or what not, they could just be the same with a diffrent part number to a 1.0 ones :s the springs are the same so there shouldnt be a diffrance! they will be fine on your new one.
Manny
Ex. Club Member
it will look good and give the car better ride and cornering but it does your car in when u go over humps, uneven road, pot holes etc you will end up keep buying pats like links, bushes etc
I'd be interested to see why a standard spring chopped for a 35mm drop would be an MOT failure whilst a spring made for a 35mm drop wouldn't....?
Robert
Ex. Club Member
It wouldn't seat properly..
Proper lowered springs have flat springs top and bottpm, if you look they're more tightly wound at either end too.
Cutting springs takes away that flat edge meaning they won't sit properly.
Saying that though, I know people that have cut springs and had no problems, I still wouldn't want cut springs on my car though.
Proper lowered springs have flat springs top and bottpm, if you look they're more tightly wound at either end too.
Cutting springs takes away that flat edge meaning they won't sit properly.
Saying that though, I know people that have cut springs and had no problems, I still wouldn't want cut springs on my car though.
