starting issues

[C0llis0n]

Hey all, after a little help.

Just re-fitted the new auto engine. Swapped most things over like water pump mounts, alternator, flywheel, clutch ect. re-fitted nicely, everything was plugged in apart from one plug which had nowhere to fit into (below the distributor). Started for first time with no problems what so ever other then the check engine light on solid. Ran for 2 minutes then switched of. Re-started and left for 15 mins whilst i re-fitted all over body parts. Took her for a 2 minute drive and she didnt skip a beat.

However after switching of for another 5 minutes she just wouldnt start up again for a long time. Had to keep turning her over and pumping the throttle for about a minute and a half. When she does fire up theres no problems with how shes running its just getting her going is proving difficult. The other problem is when turning on the ignition the rad fires up straight away.

Any ideas on what may be the problem? One thing i had'nt changed from the manual engine is the fuel rail. Could the injectors have anything to do with it?

Joe.

 

[frank]

sounds like the coolant temp sensor joe (the 2 wire one under the dizzy)

 

[pollyp]

below the dizzy are 1-terminal plug from the gauge sensor to dials and a 2-terminal plug from ecu coolant sensor going to ecu.

if the ecu coolant sensors unplugged, the ecu will bring up the engine check light and think it's running hot which would turn on the fan and cold start with a normal/lean mixture rather than rich

 

[frank]

below the dizzy are 1-terminal plug from the gauge sensor to dials and a 2-terminal plug from ecu coolant sensor going to ecu.

if the ecu coolant sensors unplugged, the ecu will bring up the engine check light and think it's running hot which would turn on the fan and cold start with a normal/lean mixture rather than rich

no, if you unplug that paul it flags the checklight and runs fulltime rich/coldstart (which makes it hard to restart)

 

[will930]

i had this problem before and it was the plug frank is talking about :d

 

[pollyp]

no, if you unplug that paul it flags the checklight and runs fulltime rich/coldstart (which makes it hard to restart)

doh ur right. brain had a dumb moment there lol

 

[C0llis0n]

Right so it is related to the plug but theres no where on the automatic engine to plug the sensor in. + the hole is blanked off....

 

[frank]

nah, there,s gotta be a c/t/s joe fwn

 

[C0llis0n]

c/t/s frank???

 

[frank]

coolant temp sensor mate, every car has one

 

[C0llis0n]

am i right in saying that under the dizzy theres 3 connections? a plug, a blade and then another plug.... On the manual engine I have all 3 connections however on the auto i dont have the connection closest to the back of the bay. This is the plug that is loose and I cant see anywhere for it too slot into. Does anyone have a picture of these plugs so I can explain better. Im at the miss's but the micras at home so i cant get a photo.

Thanks for the help guys.

 

[C0llis0n]

anybody?

 

[frank]

you should have the 1 wire gauge one, and the 2 wire ecu one below, and the evap valve to the right joe

 

[C0llis0n]

you should have the 1 wire gauge one, and the 2 wire ecu one below, and the evap valve to the right joe

right i only have the 1 wire gauge one for some reason??? I dont even have the evap valve to the right of the 1 wire gauge one. :upside:

 

[frank]

and is the lower one plugged/bunged ?

 

[C0llis0n]

i'll double check tomorrow but im sure its blanked (non existent)

 

[frank]

if its undrilled joe, tape/cabletie your old sensor to the nearby heater hose for now

 

[C0llis0n]

thanks frank. what about the evap valve how important is it?

 

[frank]

thanks frank. what about the evap valve how important is it?

mine,s not connected to anything joe (the carbon canister and all the pipes were binned long ago)
and i have a voltmeter on the dash connected to the middle lambda wire, and its off the scale rich (.9v) for the 1st mile in the morning (coldstart enrichment signal from the coolant temp sensor)
after 1 mile the ecu then goes into closed loop (bouncing between .3v and .7v)
yours should do the same if you tape the sensor to the heaterhose

 

[C0llis0n]

mine,s not connected to anything joe (the carbon canister and all the pipes were binned long ago)
and i have a voltmeter on the dash connected to the middle lambda wire, and its off the scale rich (.9v) for the 1st mile in the morning (coldstart enrichment signal from the coolant temp sensor)
after 1 mile the ecu then goes into closed loop (bouncing between .3v and .7v)
yours should do the same if you tape the sensor to the heaterhose

cheers for the info Frank. I'll be up early tomorrow to sort the sensor out and take her for a long spin (Y) will let you guys know how it go's.

 

[C0llis0n]

Right found the problem with the sensor, the terminals were different so i must have just snubbed it previously and forgot about it :doh: . Took the one of the old engine and tied it to the hose for the time being. This sorted the engine light problem and she fired up straight away but half a mile down the road it stalled and really didnt want to start again! After about 2 minutes of turning over and pumping the throttle she finally came to life. Also when she was running there was a huge lack of power for about a second or two when the throttle was fully opened. When she did start there was a lot of smoke in the engine bay. I do have a small blow in the exhaust manifold where im yet to fit a nut onto one of the bolts, could this be related to the lack of power?

 

[frank]

the hesitation is the c/t/s still joe, you,re best to just fit it properly

 

[C0llis0n]

i'll see if i get the chance tonight frank. (Y)

 

[C0llis0n]

All sorted now guys. Got the c/t/s properly installed and also found a leak in one of the coolant pipes. turn her over and she starts first time every time yet again! My god its quick aswell. Pretty confident its quicker then the old cg13. Fitted a Janspeed manifold on Friday night aswell but having a few problems with rattling/blowing. Seems a pain in the arse to stop it blowing from where the cat to front connects to the 2 manifold sections Any tips ?

Thanks for all the help (Y)