some real trouble

When i got my micra, the drivers door lock barrel was stiff but useable. a week and a half on, its stopped working at all. worse than that, my drivers door WON'T OPEN :( :( :( this means that every time i want to get in or out of the car i have to climb across (something im getting quite good at). Does anyone know how to sort out this sort of problem? i know usually you take the door card off, but in this case, the door cant open and ive already managed to damage the door card trying to pull it out of the back of the door where it seals against the B-pillar. HELP PLEASE!!!!!
 
Hi Tom
If it is rusting up in there it is quite easy to take the barel out of the door (have a look at a haynes manual).
Once you have done that you will see A circlip holds a cam on, pop that off and then remove the spring (make a note of how it goes!).
You will then have a clear view of all the tumblers and be able to put a lubricant in there and get the thing working smooth again.
I snapped a key in mine and had to take the barrel out to remove it, once I lubed it up it now works better than ever!
 
thanks for the advice guys. i went to nissan deaership aand they said they reckon the door had dropped a bit on the hinges and is now jammed between the lock and the door catch. their best advice was, and i quote, "give it a few hard kicks and it might come free". thanks guys! will definitely try anti sieze penetrating oil. get things like that on the cheap as a mate works in a DIY shop! thanks for the tip!
 
new developments on the door issue.....

this morning my driver side window fell off its rail.
ive managed to get the door card off (even though i unfortunately had to damage it in the process)
managed to bodge the lower pivot arm from the window motor, and, with a bit of help refitted the window.
the door is indeed jammed, as i have puled hard on the unlock rod, and the open door rod, and both seem to work just fine. also looks like one of the rods from the outside handle is disconnected as well...... ballache. lost the light before i got finished.
now i have a bare, naked drivers door that acts best as a wall, with a window switch box hanging off its wires connected to a window mechanism with very worn rail guide bushes right next to my right knee..... great!
 
time too A TEAM it from inside
try using the sole of your boots from inside while operating the lever,using steadyer harder force
 
the dukes of hazzard thing works really well....... except the drivers window keps coming off its rails! ive got the mechanism sorted out, but i need advice on keeping the window on the rail. it falls off every time i open it at the back, leaving me with a massively angled window and a difficult bodge to get it to sit well again. (in relevance to this..... the edge of door skins are REALLY SHARP!). ive tried constant pressure, while someone else held open the unlock and door open pull bars. i think the answer may well, unfortunately, be removal of the latch inside the doors and refitting tightly...... cheers for all the help guys. I'd have been stuck already without advice from this site!!!!!
 
door skins? handcuffs?:laugh:true
stik the window glass back inside the2 plastic clips on the rail inside the door,i used a decent glue in the clips slipped the window back down into them,making sure the clips sit exactly on the glass as positioned before they came loos ,should be some old marks on the glass where they sat,
 
yeah there are, but theres 2 on each end of the glass. well confusing! also, i managed to buy the worlds worst glue. Locktite glass bond. i know people who've used it and its worked fine. its supposed to set in 10 seconds. ive had the glue on the rail for over a week now (168 hours, 10080 minutes, 604800 seconds) and its STILL WET! araldite time i think!
 
oh, and here's 1 for silly ideas. my brother suggested i do it nascar style. take out the window and put netting in! think im going for perspex anyway!
 
ok guys this has now become a BIG problem. got a random stop-search from the police the other night, and ive been given a "defect retification" note. basically this means the police dont think my car is roadworthy, so i have to fix the problem within 2 weeks (now 11 days) and get an MOT test stamp to prove it or they take my car and put it in a big crusher :(:(
 
not much you can do if you cant open the door mate.

I had the same issue with the passenger side on my 94 K11 Super S.

I have to rip the door card off (yes damaged it) then had to source another from a scrappers, one the door card was off - it took about 10secs to open the door lol.
You will notice that inside the door is some metal rods that push the locking mechanism and also some metal rods for releasing the door latch / lock.

Once you get the correct one, pull it and pop - the door will open, if not - remove all the lock mechanism and then try the metal rod thats going to the latch and it should open.

If the lock has seized up like mine did, then you will not get the door open if its locked (not without removing the mechanism) reason for this is it jams the handle mechanism.

Try what i said :)
 
On my phone so can't see bur where are you? I could get it open and working if you drive to me?

Don't let her die ;(
 
cheers guys! its all sorted now. i got a new door, and managed to get the old one off with an angle grinder and lump hammer. managed a door spray and swap in 15 hours (it was actually pretty horrible!!! 9am to midnight, but i guess thats how long it takes paint to dry). only issue is the lovely orange peel effect because my mate is a f***ing retard and sprayed half a can at a time.... DUH!!!!! thanks for all the support ive been given through this, to everyone who's posted!
 
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