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That's them Matt, I'd sold all my 15" wheels to improve the gearing
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Skinners Sprint Micra
- Thread starter Skinner_87
- Start date
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267x21 is what they were run with previous Dave so I'm thinking of sticking with the sameYarp, different disc size though I'd imagine
Oh, they'll do!267x21 is what they were run with previous Dave so I'm thinking of sticking with the same
Pack some spare pants for the first time you stamp on them at speed Paul
pollyp
Club Member
them brakes will be thinking:Oh, they'll do!
Pack some spare pants for the first time you stamp on them at speed Paul
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Oh Christ il be careful with the bias valve!Oh, they'll do!
Pack some spare pants for the first time you stamp on them at speed Paul
I just mean prepare for a bit of a shock at the level of retardation they are capable of, especially on a warm set of tires once they're fully bedded in.
The modulation and sustained stopping power is breathtaking. You'll wonder why you stuck with anything else for so long.
They will make GTIR brakes feel like cheese, it's a SERIOUS upgrade.
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Inlet manifold took a while but is port matched up.
And a jointed support made up, the extra SS bends in the mani add a bit of weight, thought it best to put some support back in
And a jointed support made up, the extra SS bends in the mani add a bit of weight, thought it best to put some support back in
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Civic rad installed & returned injectors back with 2% flow rate increase and factory level spray patten!
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AP Brakes mocked up
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It's been a long long time since an update on here.
Slowly but surely more parts are coming together for the next part of this build at last!
Slowly but surely more parts are coming together for the next part of this build at last!
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You've got it in one Dave!Eh up, someone's going wide track
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Those are the hub spaces mate, so between the strut and hub to widen the track.
Extended rod ends should be waiting for me at home, then to sort out the wishbones and shafts!
Do you have power steering? Where on the ground does this put a line between the strut top and the ball joint? (steering axis)
If the middle of the contact patch is too far outside this the wheel has leverage over the steering and will try to fight you I think (scrub radius).
This would seem to move the centre of the tyre out significantly without moving that line out, I imagine longer bottom arms will help but there seems to be a lot to make up.
http://86.43.94.97/moodlecp9a/file.php/1/glossary/pv/steering/geometry/posnegoffset.jpg
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I done have power steering at the moment but i have assembled enough kit to re install a P/S which is the plan.
It's bad enough as it is with the diff and manual rack!
I may have to look then at the offset of the wheels to reduce this
Running less castor may help steering effort, but will give less negative camber gain when turning.
What width wheels / tyres are you thinking of running?
What width wheels / tyres are you thinking of running?
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I have just been on to Matt H for a whiteline kit for the castor so hopefully that will help.
It would be 14*7 initially with 195 tyres..... Im thinking of switching to 14*6 and a 185 tyre to widen my options
Sorry, my head has mini suspension loaded into it, I just poked my head under the micra.
I don't think these by themselves would effect the steering axis or scrub radius as steering axis is described by the top centre of the strut and the bottom ball joint, neither of which has moved.
If your aim was wider track you'd need longer bottom arms to go with this wouldn't you? Otherwise it's just going to move the strut closer to the inner guard, unless these are to buy yourself more room to run wider tyres and a more neutral offset without them rubbing on the strut. The wider wheels with the same offset would widen the car but not effect scrub radius. Track width is technically the distance between the wheel centre lines so in this case has not increased despite the overall width of the car increasing.
Generally (I could be wrong here, or anywhere...) castor kits would look to increase the castor, as it would give increased steering feel / effort but also increased negative camber on turn in and therefore more grip.
I don't think these by themselves would effect the steering axis or scrub radius as steering axis is described by the top centre of the strut and the bottom ball joint, neither of which has moved.
If your aim was wider track you'd need longer bottom arms to go with this wouldn't you? Otherwise it's just going to move the strut closer to the inner guard, unless these are to buy yourself more room to run wider tyres and a more neutral offset without them rubbing on the strut. The wider wheels with the same offset would widen the car but not effect scrub radius. Track width is technically the distance between the wheel centre lines so in this case has not increased despite the overall width of the car increasing.
Generally (I could be wrong here, or anywhere...) castor kits would look to increase the castor, as it would give increased steering feel / effort but also increased negative camber on turn in and therefore more grip.
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Hi mate, I should have explained further.
I will be running wider wishbones so as you say the ball joint to strut centre will change; I also have extended steering arms to fit but may keep the original ARB position when extending the wishbone, either welding up the originals or getting a full wider set made. That’s another thing I need to look at!
In that case ignore the stuff I said about scrub radius and steering axis, it may even improve things by pushing the point outwards closer to the wheel centre line.
So what do the blocks do? you'd get the wider track with just the wider wishbones, with increased negative camber as a bonus (just like moving the tops inward increases negative camber).
I see either, adjusting for too much / or more negative camber or as above for increased clearance for the tyre wheel on the strut.
Maybe it's easier to source a stiffer ARB rather than extend the mounting positions and need to source a longer ARB?