Is there any good reason why i cant do a reverse flow cylinder head on the cga3?
Mich like the old janspeed btcc primera.
So you can run throttle bodies with long runners out the bonnet without removing the brake booster and a straight enough exhaust routing out the back?
I know the exhaust valves would need to be increased in size and hardened (two lots of exhaust valves?) Also cams would be 180deg out... and lots of porting required. But i really cant see a downside.
someone mis-labelled the box? so that's 30deg acc / 40deg dec (angle relative to the direction of rotation. lower the angle, more wedging ramp force acting on the LSD clutch stack, more locking force per torque input)
perhaps verify details with gripper?
someone mis-labelled the box? so that's 30deg acc / 40deg dec (angle relative to the direction of rotation. lower the angle, more wedging ramp force acting on the LSD clutch stack, more locking force per torque input)
perhaps verify details with gripper?
Is there any good reason why i cant do a reverse flow cylinder head on the cga3?
Mich like the old janspeed btcc primera.
So you can run throttle bodies with long runners out the bonnet without removing the brake booster and a straight enough exhaust routing out the back?
I know the exhaust valves would need to be increased in size and hardened (two lots of exhaust valves?) Also cams would be 180deg out... and lots of porting required. But i really cant see a downside.
New suspensions on im just playing with damping rates at the moment & tyre pressures. R888R's 185/60/14 are scrubbing in well & im impressed with the grip.
The LSD is taking some getting used to its a bit of a hand full.
I've hired a HANS device as well so im keen to see how that fits and get ready for scrut on Wed night or Thurs Morning
Is there any good reason why i cant do a reverse flow cylinder head on the cga3?
Mich like the old janspeed btcc primera.
So you can run throttle bodies with long runners out the bonnet without removing the brake booster and a straight enough exhaust routing out the back?
I know the exhaust valves would need to be increased in size and hardened (two lots of exhaust valves?) Also cams would be 180deg out... and lots of porting required. But i really cant see a downside.
I can't see why it wouldn't work, you'd have to swap the cams over and do a fair bit of porting. You would probably have to run a Standalone ECU and either ditch the cam sensor or relocate it.
you would have to rephase the cams eh, turn 1 about 120deg clockwise and the other 120deg anticlock, i doubt if you would have room for 4 inlet valves tho
I imagine the PAS will be going back on at some point Dave. I kept the rack & system from a spare car i broke last year just incase this sort of situation arose.
Il update the thread with the Hillclimb results when I get some pics sorted but the cars going on another diet for next year. Starting with a new alt bracket
Il update the thread with the Hillclimb results when I get some pics sorted but the cars going on another diet for next year. Starting with a new alt bracket
To be honest niether have I but the suzuki one is much smaller and in your hand it feels like it weighs a lot less, Brise make a light weight alternator that looks like a suzuki item.
I'll get you a weight for both as I have them both here somewhere.
Il update the thread with the Hillclimb results when I get some pics sorted but the cars going on another diet for next year. Starting with a new alt bracket
To be honest niether have I but the suzuki one is much smaller and in your hand it feels like it weighs a lot less, Brise make a light weight alternator that looks like a suzuki item.
I'll get you a weight for both as I have them both here somewhere.
4.7kg for the micra alternator and 3.3 for the suzuki alternator if I remember rightly the suzuki one puts out less but it's running fine in my micra engined mini.
It's been a good while since iv updated anything on here. Not much to report really, winter rebuild ahead and a lot of body bracing and welding vs cutting out the none structural parts.
Bit of research and chat today about specing the car up. It's been untouched really bar the suspension and diff.
72.12mm bore forged pistons and rods to go into the CGA3 block.
A slight skin on the head as the bloc has 20thou removed already.
Aiming for 12.3:1 compression ratio.
An updated pump is sat in the garage and the injectors will go for a clean and test.
Also looking at options for a 200mm clutch or a beefier 180mm.
Engine to come out this month to be machines for the above. I can set to port matching the inlet mani to the head as well as that is standard shape at the moment.
Lots to do but I'm sure April will come around quickly
Very similar sized rad to what I'm using Paul. Ignore the slight angle, it was a WIP shot. Twin fans drop temps down much more efficiently and free up a good deal of extra room at the front of the bay for work in.
Will be interesting to see how much machining work is needed on the pistons. Design may have changed since I last looked but there's some additional meat on the crowns for setting the comp ratio.
adding from my exp with high engine output,
the 180mm clutch had limited capacity and durability.
although my 200mm helix clutch can definately handle the torque reliably with durability, the PP is very!! heavy and long throw, which means the cable wears out faster and requires frequent oiling and maybe reinforcements.
another option would be like sirchris's multiplate clutches?
adding from my exp with high engine output,
the 180mm clutch had limited capacity and durability.
although my 200mm helix clutch can definately handle the torque reliably with durability, the PP is very!! heavy and long throw, which means the cable wears out faster and requires frequent oiling and maybe reinforcements.
another option would be like sirchris's multiplate clutches?
lol tis a good work out driving it daily. just about the only sort of exercise I get these days
when I used to have the helix paddle clutch yrs ago and the cable was really sticking (this was before I found out about oiling the cable) the pedal was twice as heavy to push down so you can imagine how my leg was shaking during a long traffic jam going home (I almost couldn't drive it) and how the cable rivet eventually sheared off.
Very similar sized rad to what I'm using Paul. Ignore the slight angle, it was a WIP shot. Twin fans drop temps down much more efficiently and free up a good deal of extra room at the front of the bay for work in.
Will be interesting to see how much machining work is needed on the pistons. Design may have changed since I last looked but there's some additional meat on the crowns for setting the comp ratio.
One thing I have noticed Dave is that the fans on my rad are on the bumper side so I imagine they push hot air back into the bay? I need to power one up to test
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