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Ryan's Micra Blog

I've now got time off, as I finally finished my dissertation.
Here's a mod I've been planning to do for months now.
I thought of it the last time I broke one of my rear indicator bulbs. And a while after, at work, when a rear indicator blew.
On the front it's not so bad to lose a bulb. The mirrors also face forwards so people can still see what's flashing. On the side, I did have those two LEDs built in to the reflectors, but they're gone now. Ultimately the side indicators are the least important anyway.
But for the rear, there's no redundancy, and it can actually be a bit dangerous to lose an indicator. Especially at work when I can't even use hand signals, being a panel/box van!
So in the event of rear indicator failure, I wanted to be able to switch to the foglights for signals instead.
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So, I added the switches. These are Single Pole Dual Throw, so one input and two separate outputs.
While I did check for clearance from the parcel shelf, I didn't think about the rear seatbelt reels, which these catch on. So a bit of spade bending was required.
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I forgot the condition of the rear of the chassis, it's quite fresh. The crashbar is quite brown, but the actual car body is looking really nice. The sunroof drains are still looking good, a mod I absolutely recommend.
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In order for the lights to have two functions, and to save effort by using a common ground between them, I used a couple of diodes on each one. These were of course wrapped up later.
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There's now quite a few more wires, so I had to cable tie them up a bit. I wouldn't want them to snag on something, hang there looking terrible, or melt on the exhaust.
It's not really possible to show the final product in photos, but it works now. When the switches are set to setting 1, the orange indicators function. When the switches are set to setting 2, the red foglights flash instead. Using the rear foglights will make them both switch on and stay on, regardless of anything else. So, mission successful!
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While I was back here, I stuck on a light strip to the underside of the parcel shelf. Admittedly it's not the most straight, looking at it now, but that's okay, because...
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...it's hidden when fitted! Even at this low angle only the wire leading to it is visible.
I'm going to buy another 6-pin plug (previous one got cancelled because of a pandemic [bruh] ). The one I put on there about 4 or 5 years ago is a bit shabby and a pain to separate anyway. Then I'll connect the light strip through the plug, so the shelf can still easily be removed. The light will be linked to the existing boot light and will use the same on/off switch.
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Since I had the dremel out, I tidied up Cassie's rear bumper. It was getting late though so I stopped making noise. I'll continue with sandpaper next time.
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I'll probably do a bunch of other things with my car this week with my new free time.

Sent from my F8331 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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I'm waiting on some goodies from abroad, one of which will fit in here. Or will it? My panel is a little different, but I think with some chopping it'll accept the new bits.
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I'll practice on a spare before I potentially ruin my dark one.
After much research, the prefacelifts and facelifts have slightly different panels. And LHD/RHD are mirrored. I'm hoping that the hole in the middle is the same either way.
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While I was out there a package arrived!
I bought this mainly for the work van, as I had a little mishap with a hidden street sign. But I've got two tiny dents on my right wing of my car, so I'll try and get them out with this too. Eddie might find this useful as well.
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Nice, seems like a decent kit.
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Another day, some more stuff arrived. The body filler is for the track car rear bumper. I might also use it to cover holes where locks and the rear wiper are removed. I might even remove the radio antennae from my car (and the track one obviously) and fill it in with this or something similar.
The other package is an electrical plug.
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It came in an explosion of bits. One of the red bits was already fitted, which I had to fish out.
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It was extremely fiddly. But here's the plug fitted to the parcel shelf, complete with the new boot light.
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Test setup to check the correct polarity of the light wires.
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And the most fiddly part was this end of the plug. This was a real pain to assemble as the pins were all wonky and wouldn't go all the way through.
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Fitting the two ends of the plug together only increased the fiddlyness as the pins would then pop out or bend. After a lot of faffing about I got them all working, at least for now... I also put some hotglue on the light strip as it wasn't sticking very well.
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But eventually I got it working alright. Maybe I shouldn't have used a waterproof plug as that was one reason it was so difficult. It wouldn't need to be waterproof in the boot.
Regardless, the manky old plug that I got from Halfords about 5 years ago has been removed and I've now got 6 pins and the light strip added. It's also black and quite slim, which looks better.
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And it's only really visible from below, ultimately stealthy.
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Night view, it looks good! I've since tucked some wires to hide it a bit better, especially the left speaker wires as they sag near the light strip end.
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Neat!
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Sent from my F8331 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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A great sunny day, where I'm not at work, because I'm supposed to be at Japfest 2020. Stupid pandemic!
Well, I got a chance to do some work on that rear bumper. I just had to Dremel off some last bits.
Notice the nasty scratches on the left side of the bumper!
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Soon enough I had it cut down completely and quite smooth. Looks good!
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Looks like it was meant to be that way.
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I then sanded the entire bumper down. My old sandpaper that I bought about 5 years ago was barely doing anything, but I found the original packet in a box, with several sheets unused!
Some of the scratches, especially the big ones on the left, required much more work and a lower grit paper.
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But, I got it looking quite smooth.
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After a rinse down it actually looked quite shiny again, while wet.
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A final sand down to really finish it off. I'll need to buy some filler primer to continue.
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Bump strips sanded down and reattached. Some final sanding done, ready for some filler action after a final wash.
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I've realised that if I fill the bump strips in, there's a line connecting them both. Do I fill the entire upper line in, or try and shorten it?
I'm thinking fill the whole thing in and keep it neat.
The plan is to use a Super S / SR front bumper on the track car, which is quite smooth.

Sent from my F8331 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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So, first time using body filler! Seemed fairly easy, the first side went on well.
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I made another batch of filler and did the other side, this time doing a bit of the middle line connecting the strips.
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Another go, now the line is completely covered.
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One final go, this time also filling in some of the worst scratches that were still showing.
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Then I sanded it down for ages. It felt like hours, it may well have been. The sandpaper ended up getting ripped up, even the new sheets.
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I decided to dig out a tool I'd never used, an orbital sander. It's been in the back of my garage for a long time. This sped up the sanding process a great deal!
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It was starting to look pretty good!
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I got it to this point, where it was looking really smooth. It just needed some edges tidying up. But, there were quite a few low bits that needed more filler...
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So, I made up some more body filler (now with just a little bit left) and applied it over again, focusing on the deep bits. Then I had one last go with the sander to tidy it up a bit. I had to stop, but I got it looking pretty nice.
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Next time I might add the last of the body filler. Then it's time to sand it all smooth, and add the filler primer (when it arrives).
This is looking good! Too bad I don't have the car to fit it to yet.

Sent from my F8331 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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I'm waiting on some goodies from abroad, one of which will fit in here. Or will it? My panel is a little different, but I think with some chopping it'll accept the new bits.
View attachment 69168
I'll practice on a spare before I potentially ruin my dark one.
After much research, the prefacelifts and facelifts have slightly different panels. And LHD/RHD are mirrored. I'm hoping that the hole in the middle is the same either way.
View attachment 69169
While I was out there a package arrived!
I bought this mainly for the work van, as I had a little mishap with a hidden street sign. But I've got two tiny dents on my right wing of my car, so I'll try and get them out with this too. Eddie might find this useful as well.
View attachment 69170
Nice, seems like a decent kit.
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Another day, some more stuff arrived. The body filler is for the track car rear bumper. I might also use it to cover holes where locks and the rear wiper are removed. I might even remove the radio antennae from my car (and the track one obviously) and fill it in with this or something similar.
The other package is an electrical plug.
View attachment 69172
It came in an explosion of bits. One of the red bits was already fitted, which I had to fish out.
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It was extremely fiddly. But here's the plug fitted to the parcel shelf, complete with the new boot light.
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Test setup to check the correct polarity of the light wires.
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And the most fiddly part was this end of the plug. This was a real pain to assemble as the pins were all wonky and wouldn't go all the way through.
View attachment 69176
Fitting the two ends of the plug together only increased the fiddlyness as the pins would then pop out or bend. After a lot of faffing about I got them all working, at least for now... I also put some hotglue on the light strip as it wasn't sticking very well.
View attachment 69177
But eventually I got it working alright. Maybe I shouldn't have used a waterproof plug as that was one reason it was so difficult. It wouldn't need to be waterproof in the boot.
Regardless, the manky old plug that I got from Halfords about 5 years ago has been removed and I've now got 6 pins and the light strip added. It's also black and quite slim, which looks better.
View attachment 69178
And it's only really visible from below, ultimately stealthy.
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Night view, it looks good! I've since tucked some wires to hide it a bit better, especially the left speaker wires as they sag near the light strip end.
View attachment 69180
Neat!
View attachment 69181

Sent from my F8331 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
ive got a question for you? trying to get speakers for my rear parcel shelf but know nothing about speakers at all! do you have any idea what speakers to buy? i was trying to buy a stock parcel shelf but ive currently had no luck on that end! any advice you could give me would be brillant!
 
ive got a question for you? trying to get speakers for my rear parcel shelf but know nothing about speakers at all! do you have any idea what speakers to buy? i was trying to buy a stock parcel shelf but ive currently had no luck on that end! any advice you could give me would be brillant!
Depends what your after, running a amp or not,
Your looking sud 45rms speaker wise. (as that's what the stereo can make without destortion ect,

I used Sony xplod 6x9s in one was great,
Used a chopped stereo plug to fit the plug in the car (instead of hacking the wiring ),
The cheap JVC, Kenwood are ok off eBay and work within stereo specs, also halfords vibe speakers are the same (the cheap ones),
And then stereo setup /audio setts help more,

Sorry Ryan to jump in

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Depends what your after, running a amp or not,
Your looking sud 45rms speaker wise. (as that's what the stereo can make without destortion ect,

I used Sony xplod 6x9s in one was great,
Used a chopped stereo plug to fit the plug in the car (instead of hacking the wiring ),
The cheap JVC, Kenwood are ok off eBay and work within stereo specs, also halfords vibe speakers are the same (the cheap ones),
And then stereo setup /audio setts help more,

Sorry Ryan to jump in

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
You know more than me, I've only got stock speakers. I'd like to upgrade some time too. I also wouldn't know what to get.
 
You know more than me, I've only got stock speakers. I'd like to upgrade some time too. I also wouldn't know what to get.
Yeah,
It's really the RMS stereo setting /stereo running amp and such
I'm still running stock with a sub as they are surprisingly good specialy with a decent stereo ect ,
I'm tempted with the £11vibe speakers 40rms and 110w or somthing
Seem much better then the eBay jvc speakers that max is 30rms with cheap quality and tiny driver ect but depends what your going for and worth sound deadening abit also I put some behind the front speakers to stop them rattling off the window guide

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Haven't updated in ages!
I bought a wraparound spoiler! This isn't for me, it's for Eddie. It's in great condition, including the studs. It's got a bit of a crack on one corner but we can fix that.
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Final sanding of the track car bumper. At least I think.
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The driveway needed some TLC, so the cars vanished.
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Oh, no, there they are.
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As always a little play with the Cabrio roof, to air it out.
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I kinda like early JDM facelift headlights for their indicators. They'd make for great sidelights, perhaps a switchback white/orange would be a good solution.
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So cute from above. Just ignore the paint on the spoiler.
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Got an engine code. As always my reader won't show me the code, but if I'm lucky enough to have it pending I can snatch it. Seems that we're running rich.
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That would explain the slightly rough idle at times (can even stall). Also seems to be a bit of a lack of power. It could be a slight leak in the exhaust somewhere between the sensors, but I think it's more likely my bootleg MAF sensor again. I've got a couple of genuine ones in the garage but they're both like 20 years old and used.
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The oil was still leaking of course, but by now it had pooled in the engine bay and was dripping out quite a lot. I had to leave my car on cardboard. Coolant is now leaking again, quite a bit, so I'm going to try and fit my spare water pump on this car. That pump was actually on this car originally.
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I was having to use my MCM cable ties, which I only really want to use in places where they can be seen. So I bought one thousand cable ties.
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Today! I was outside doing stuff all day, partly cleaning the driveway still, but also working on my bike, finally. I won't post the photos here as it's too off-topic. I'm not on a Bandit or Suzuki forum, but I'm on the Facebook group and it's quite toxic.
A care package arrived today, with my new headlights!
Sent from the one and only nissan boy! These are exactly what I was after. Some minor damage around the back but typical of headlights once they're removed. The glass, where it meets the plastic and reflectors all look great. I'd otherwise use one of my many other sets, but they're all slightly imperfect in a few ways.
These will be painted black like the old set.
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More excitingly, a random, unknown selection of small parts was waiting in the box too. Some window winders in black, nice. A bulb socket, looks like it's for a side indicator? Good to have, especially for the internal parts if making an electrical bodge. An electric mirror switch, very cool, haven't seen one of these basic ones in person until today. A second-face rear wiper cap! I remember many years ago I lost mine and couldn't find one, and had to buy one new from Nissan at great expense. So I'll collect those!
And lastly, an item I knew was coming, a little mat thing for the upper dash! I've never seen one of these before. Not made for the car, I mean. It's even got a logo on it. Too bad it's the second-face logo, the worst one, but still, I like it! On the back it's got another logo, implying it can be reversed for LHD cars.
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Without (and sunglasses case removed)...
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...and with. That's quite cool!
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The headlights were in excellent condition. One even came with a bulb and socket.
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Aired out the Cabrio once more.
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And finally, my new cam cover arrived! So with this here, the final oil leak will be sealed. This one is a bit better made too, partly because there were no bodge holes to weld up.
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I'm going to give it a clean and then paint it! I'll do the same paint scheme as last time, red but with the middle bit black.
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Time to get scrubbing on this then!
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It started looking good immediately. The wirebrush attachments on my drill made this 100 times faster.
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Bit more cleaning down, and the holes for the lead holders (most of which were filled with the broken bottom end of the holder) emptied out.
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Soon enough, I got some paint on. I used the last of one can.
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I later used another can for a second coat (this was also running out). I'm going to use some nicer bolts for the coilpacks this time.
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Meanwhile, my car helped inflate the flat tyres on my now basically complete bike.
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I retreived the MAF sensor from the CG10 that came with my current car. Let's see how well a genuine 17 year old sensor compares to a bootleg <1 year sensor.
Time to split down these new headlights then! As always, a crappy old hair dryer is all it takes.
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I found this tab which belongs on the bottom of one of the lights. They both have one missing and the one in the photo has a crack on the remaining one, making it flappy. I was considering gluing this back on, but I don't think they do a lot. The glue would cause more trouble than it's worth.
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Headlights split down and ready for the eyeliner.
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This time I'm trying a new method with masking the sidelights. I didn't have any bluetack left. Since I used some white labels to mask the indicator lenses (couldn't find the masking tape, even though it was next to the headlights), I put some labels over the sidelights too. I then cut along the side of the lens, leaving only a millimeter or less of label holding on outside the lens. I hope this works...
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Primer on. This also ran out before I could get a satisfactory amount on. The labels on the left light lifted a little bit... I hope no paint got in.
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While that was drying, it was time to sort out the glass. First of all, a good scrub with a brush not used for dishes.
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Then once dried, I polished both the inside and outside of the glass.
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Result: Nice clear, shiny glass. Looks like the green colour is unavoidable. Must be due to how the glass is made or treated.
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When the primer had dried enough, it was time for the black. Once again the paint can ran out before I was done! I had one can left which was also low, and that too ran out before I was satisfied! I've got four new empty cans as of today.
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The fun will continue tomorrow, as the red paint is also running out. I thought I had a new one, I guess not. Also, the black paint I used on the cam cover wasn't high temperature, I didn't realise until after. I don't think the cam cover gets hot enough to really need it, though.

Tomorrow I must fit the new cam cover, as I need to go to work the next day. And I don't want a drop more of oil to go on the floor.

Sent from my F8331 using Micra Sports Club mobile app

I think I used the red high-temp paint I thought I had on my red fan in the engine bay.
 
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So, the new label & trim method worked very nicely with the headlights! Better than with bluetac, as now none of the chrome is pulled off from the reflector. These look good. It is the 3rd time I've done this now. Running out of paint didn't help, but the most visible areas are coated well enough. It's behind glass anyway, imperfections aren't so noticeable.
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Yes! Look at that. Looks great.
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This time, as well as heating the original gasket to glue it back in, I also used my gasket sealant stuff. It was pretty messy but hopefully now these won't ever fog up. I also fitted all 3 vent caps to each one, as I've got a bit of a collection.
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Time to mask up the cam cover. As before, this was tricky, and I left it "good enough". I decided to mask the oil cap hole completely to make sure it's got a good clean surface, as the bootleg Nismo cap does leak a little unless it's extremely tight.
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Quite pleased with the PCV hole masking, not that it'll ever be seen up close.
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And so on goes the red. The little I had. I could only get one single coat on, and even then, it wasn't fully coated... That sucks.
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I gathered all of the headlight clips I had. Now each light has 7 clips on the bottom...
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...and four on the top. This'll hold the glass really tight (especially as these were still warm).
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I've been considering useing these bigger injectors again. Very mixed opinions on these, so I figured I'd just give them a go.
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So, in they went. I also put in the MAF sensor that I had ready. No more crappy bootleg ones.
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Cams exposed. Time to get the new cover on, and a new gasket.
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The cover came out pretty nice, actually. A little sloppier than before, especially with the single coat of paint that doesn't even fully coat it. But, I guess, it'll do for now. I also got a bit impatient with sanding the lettering down.
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It was at this moment, I found these two in my car, under the passenger seat!!! I'm such an idiot!!! I'm never going to recover from this monumental cock-up.
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Moving on anyway, the cam cover went on. And nothing got cracked this time. Unfortunately the coilpack bolts weren't long enough. Shame. Well, I'll get some nice ones some time.
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I forgot I fitted that new air filter. Looks great!
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There's a bit of a red theme going on here.
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But I noticed a problem. All of the coilpacks were sitting too high, and not sealing. With the engine running (it was fine with the injector/rail change, and MAF swap), I saw oil seeping out from the coilpack seals.
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It started to come out from all of them... This needed fixing.
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I started grinding down one of them. This took forever, made a mess, and made a lot of noise. So I tried to instead cut down a coilpack. Turns out under the plastic bit, it's many layers of metal. So cutting it was really messy and tricky. After deciding that I'd butchered it, I took a spare and went back outside.
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Lucky for me I found my junior hacksaw when I was tidying up yesterday. I even found one blade in the bottom of my toolbox. I didn't think this would be faster than a power tool, but I had a go and it chopped right through the aluminium!
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So, I cut them all down a bit and sanded the sharp ends. On the last boss, the end fell off into the spark plug hole. It turned into a big rescue mission using some wire and my grabbing tool. I got it out in the end.
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And with that, the coilpacks were held in place securely. They aren't perfectly straight but they're good enough for me, especially as such a custom setup.
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And the headlights looked great! Again on the right side, a stud got stuck in the car, this time the other one. It was no match for my mole grips though. This time, I've used some nicer nuts to hold the studs in, with a wide bottom to act like a washer.
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I've missed this face.
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I wanted to see how the change in MAF and fuel injectors made the car run, so I looked at the data. This was idling at my house until warm.
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And once arriving at the shop. I added the 3 dials on the right, I didn't know they worked on this car. I noticed that the first O2 sensor was reading quite erratically. So I might try and replace it with a spare I have. The problem is that it requires a huge spanner which my set doesn't go up to.
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Anyway, it's looking good, and best of all, when I left this spot, there wasn't a single patch of oil underneath! I think with this cam cover replacement, there are no more oil leaks. The water pump is still leaking sometimes, but it seems to go for weeks before dumping coolant. I actually heard a bit of a noise from the pump while I was checking the engine, so I'll definitely swap it with my spare one some time. Until then, though, I'm going to see how the injectors feel on the way to and back from work tomorrow and Sunday. The car is running fine, but I'm not sure if it's at full power.
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And once arriving at the shop. I added the 3 dials on the right, I didn't know they worked on this car. I noticed that the first O2 sensor was reading quite erratically. So I might try and replace it with a spare I have. The problem is that it requires a huge spanner which my set doesn't go up to.
It's supposed to be erratic, that's the ECU closed looping, because of the way a narrow band o2 sensor works the ecu bounces either side of stoikiometric this also allows the catalytic converter to clean up nox and hc emissions alternatively.
 
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