Rear main engine seal
- Thread starter cisco
- Start date
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberYou need to do that so you can atually seat the seal properly. Otherwise there's too much friction hehe.
Just a small amount of fresh oil will do nicely. pull your screws out of the old seal and give it a good clean. You can use the old seal to help push the new seal into place.
Remeber, when putting it back in go at it gently. Don't let it twist much at all. Straight and slow or you might find yourself doing the seal again in a few thousand km and getting angry at having to buy a new clutch at the same time.
Just a small amount of fresh oil will do nicely. pull your screws out of the old seal and give it a good clean. You can use the old seal to help push the new seal into place.
Remeber, when putting it back in go at it gently. Don't let it twist much at all. Straight and slow or you might find yourself doing the seal again in a few thousand km and getting angry at having to buy a new clutch at the same time.
cisco
» CMF MemberCheers.
All done.
Didn't end up using any oil, took it easy, and worked it in there. Yeah was quite stiff without any oil.
Now she's in dead even and very very securely. Any wonder they are so hard to get out !
Pushed it in a fraction further than the old one, but ahh she'll be right, only by a couple of mm. Plenty of room for that kind of tolerance in there.
Ahh all done then hey. Well off we go to put the flywheel and clutch back on. Now that the clutch has had its fingers straightened.
All done.
Didn't end up using any oil, took it easy, and worked it in there. Yeah was quite stiff without any oil.
Now she's in dead even and very very securely. Any wonder they are so hard to get out !
Pushed it in a fraction further than the old one, but ahh she'll be right, only by a couple of mm. Plenty of room for that kind of tolerance in there.
Ahh all done then hey. Well off we go to put the flywheel and clutch back on. Now that the clutch has had its fingers straightened.
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberWell I don't think you can actually put them in "too far" and looking at the pictures of yours before you pulled it out, i dont think it was seated properly at all.
cisco
» CMF MemberYeah cool.
Allright. Flywheel and clutch are both re-installed now.
I was an idiot with the massive torque wrench and accidentally burred one of the flywheel nuts slightly.
Luckily I already had it done up really tight!
Just having a quick break before psyching up to drop the box back in.
Allright. Flywheel and clutch are both re-installed now.
I was an idiot with the massive torque wrench and accidentally burred one of the flywheel nuts slightly.
Luckily I already had it done up really tight!
Just having a quick break before psyching up to drop the box back in.
CMF_Yom
» CMF Memberlol you know you only need 94nm of torque on those bolts...
cisco
» CMF MemberNo I didn't because I sold my workshop manual
I gave them BULK torque. They definately won't come undone.
Gearbox is back in the car, except that the rear bell housing bolt has completely stripped out the hole in the engine block that it winds into. That is like a major problem. Like my gearbox now cannot bolt onto the block, because the BLOCK is stripped.
That means that I need someone to bore out a thread 1 or 2 sizes larger and get a larger bolt just for that particular bolt hole. Oh no oh no. The other bell housing bolts are back in fine. I'm virtually almost finished putting the car back together, but I just can't because the back of the gearbox isn't quite flush with the engine because of this stripped bolt hole.
ARFGH!!!
And the car was booked in first thing in the morning to have this turbo leak fixed. What a cack.
Apart from that I only had to put the starter motor back, put the shafts and wheels back on, then fill it up full of gearbox oil. Oh and just the rear engine mount and hook up the shifter linkage. All minor stuff. I'm quite frustrated now.
I gave them BULK torque. They definately won't come undone.
Gearbox is back in the car, except that the rear bell housing bolt has completely stripped out the hole in the engine block that it winds into. That is like a major problem. Like my gearbox now cannot bolt onto the block, because the BLOCK is stripped.
That means that I need someone to bore out a thread 1 or 2 sizes larger and get a larger bolt just for that particular bolt hole. Oh no oh no. The other bell housing bolts are back in fine. I'm virtually almost finished putting the car back together, but I just can't because the back of the gearbox isn't quite flush with the engine because of this stripped bolt hole.
ARFGH!!!
And the car was booked in first thing in the morning to have this turbo leak fixed. What a cack.
Apart from that I only had to put the starter motor back, put the shafts and wheels back on, then fill it up full of gearbox oil. Oh and just the rear engine mount and hook up the shifter linkage. All minor stuff. I'm quite frustrated now.
CMF_Alex_B
» CMF Member
cisco, if there is any thread left > take the bolt down to the local bolt shop first thing tomorrow and get another 1cm longer. i had two do that with two of my bolts, but they were ones around the rear engine mount to bellhousing, but they still had a good 1cm of thread in them,
Alex
Alex
CMF_Yom
» CMF MemberYou might be able to rescue the thread on the block.
If you take one of the bolts which is meant to go into it down to your local bolt place they should be able to sell you one of those things which repairs/makes thread.
Keep all the thread the same. The last thing you want to be doing if it all has to come out again is stuff around figuring out which bolt goes where...
Goodluck with it!
If you take one of the bolts which is meant to go into it down to your local bolt place they should be able to sell you one of those things which repairs/makes thread.
Keep all the thread the same. The last thing you want to be doing if it all has to come out again is stuff around figuring out which bolt goes where...
Goodluck with it!
CMF_Alex_B
» CMF Memberyeh mine were to, bout 3in long, got one with another centemeter on it,
Alex
Alex
CMF_micrat
» CMF Memberthe damaged thread should be able to be repaired with a helicoil. to do this the original thread is drilled out, a larger thread is cut, and then a helicoil is inserted to bring the hole back to its original size but with a steel tread inserted. these repairs are usually very successful and stronger than original because they are steel. unfortunately you probably need the gearbox out to do it.
cisco
» CMF MemberAllright. Its kinda on pretty good enough with the longer bolt.
Thanks ALEX!!!
Looks like we won't need Mr thread repairer today.
BUT, one of the front bolt holes just stripped a bit too. But its still in there good enough for now.
I'll get all these oil leaks and stuff fixed up for now with it like this, and once everything is sorted, then later on I might take it somewhere to get all of the threads helicoiled.
I read they are recommended for "race engines, where the engines and gearboxes are frequently in and out of the car". Hmm sounds familiar.
Allright, well I have some minor things to put back together before this things drives.
Thanks ALEX!!!
Looks like we won't need Mr thread repairer today.
BUT, one of the front bolt holes just stripped a bit too. But its still in there good enough for now.
I'll get all these oil leaks and stuff fixed up for now with it like this, and once everything is sorted, then later on I might take it somewhere to get all of the threads helicoiled.
I read they are recommended for "race engines, where the engines and gearboxes are frequently in and out of the car". Hmm sounds familiar.
Allright, well I have some minor things to put back together before this things drives.
CMF_White Knight
» CMF MemberIts like redaing a novel Cisco. We await the next chapter.
Hopefully this chapter will be the happy ending where Cisco and Bluey drive off into the sunset.
Hopefully this chapter will be the happy ending where Cisco and Bluey drive off into the sunset.
cisco
» CMF MemberWell yeah pretty much.
Yeah car back in one piece. Vibrating clutch is fixed, but mostly just from adjusting the clutch cable slightly differently. I think I could still adjust it back and get it to vibrate again.
But yeah car driving pretty well.
Dropped it down to Ben @ Intune. And didn't bother to buy yet another ripoff $28 one-day rego permit. Suck it ripoff government - 30 minute drive totally unregistered. Well I'm sick of buying them because of only having to register my car again because of your incompetent shopfront workers giving out the wrong advice. I'm not buying any more of those permits until I get pulled over and booked by the cops for not having one. Everytime I have bought them, I have even driven through police RBTs and never been questioned. So forget that. Any wonder why people end up doing the wrong thing and taking shortcuts.
Well, now that that's out. I gave Ben @ Intune a big list of things to fix. Can't wait to get the car back, because then I should be able to drive straight to rego and finally get some plates on it.
List of things to fix that he's doing is:
- Fix oil leaking from turbocharger.
- Check waterpump, may be leaking slightly, fix if necessary.
- Check for any other oil leaks and fix if neccessary.
- Replace leftmost engine mount (has a big crack through it)
- Free up and replace gearbox filler plug (its ceized, I warped a 3/8" drive socket trying to open it up a while ago)
- Fix small fuel leak coming out of leftmost runner.
That's it! Should be much better after getting it back.
Then some other time I will get helicoils put in all bellhousing threads. And also get a section of intake pipe replaced by nice smooth stuff. This was the only remaining hack job that the exhaust place did on my intake system. They were tops at welding exhaust things, but very very ordinary at doing alloy pipework.
The car can sit there and be out of my hair for a while.
Yeah car back in one piece. Vibrating clutch is fixed, but mostly just from adjusting the clutch cable slightly differently. I think I could still adjust it back and get it to vibrate again.
But yeah car driving pretty well.
Dropped it down to Ben @ Intune. And didn't bother to buy yet another ripoff $28 one-day rego permit. Suck it ripoff government - 30 minute drive totally unregistered. Well I'm sick of buying them because of only having to register my car again because of your incompetent shopfront workers giving out the wrong advice. I'm not buying any more of those permits until I get pulled over and booked by the cops for not having one. Everytime I have bought them, I have even driven through police RBTs and never been questioned. So forget that. Any wonder why people end up doing the wrong thing and taking shortcuts.
Well, now that that's out. I gave Ben @ Intune a big list of things to fix. Can't wait to get the car back, because then I should be able to drive straight to rego and finally get some plates on it.
List of things to fix that he's doing is:
- Fix oil leaking from turbocharger.
- Check waterpump, may be leaking slightly, fix if necessary.
- Check for any other oil leaks and fix if neccessary.
- Replace leftmost engine mount (has a big crack through it)
- Free up and replace gearbox filler plug (its ceized, I warped a 3/8" drive socket trying to open it up a while ago)
- Fix small fuel leak coming out of leftmost runner.
That's it! Should be much better after getting it back.
Then some other time I will get helicoils put in all bellhousing threads. And also get a section of intake pipe replaced by nice smooth stuff. This was the only remaining hack job that the exhaust place did on my intake system. They were tops at welding exhaust things, but very very ordinary at doing alloy pipework.
The car can sit there and be out of my hair for a while.