Yay public holiday progress

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Well happy easter, today was pretty cool.

Well tomorrow bluey goes off to have the ACT rego inspection and get some number plates. Yeehah!

I put some factory nissan headlights on blue monster, just in case the crystal ones fail because of their "dodgy" alignment and they make me come back in another booking 1-2 days later. That happened last time, I want to pass straight away and never go back there. So it was worth the hassle of predicting that I would need to change the headlights..

Also stuffed around a bit more with the stereo installation. It seems I have blown the "mute circuit" in my brand new head unit. So the head unit clicks loudly when changing the volume knob between ZERO and anything ABOVE ZERO. Also happens when pressing various buttons on the head unit, anywhere where the unit needs to switch or transition the power supply. Apparently this can be caused by unplugging RCA leads while the head unit is turned on. I probably did do that, but weird anyway, I couldn't see how that would blow a fuse. But anyway..

The system is still buzzing with engine noise. I have no idea why. I've tried checking all the earths and grounding everything in different places etc. Just seems that something is picking up engine buzz badly. Weird! But I'm going to a car audio shop and getting them to fix both the engine buzz and the blown mute circuit fuse in the head unit. Just running front splits for now, haven't decided what the rear setup will be yet. I have an entire cleared out parcel tray area to use though. I was going to just install 6x9s and run them off the same shared 4 channel amp that powers the front splits. But could possibly be convinved to ditch the 6x9s and just run a small punchy 10" sub somewhere providing the box and overall weight could be kept to a minimum and be well secured. I reckon Two heavy 6x9s and their associated MDF enclosures would be similar in weight to a single 10" sub and a single enclosure. And the audio gurus always recommend just running front stage and a sub in the rear, rather than rear speakers. Because if you don't have any rear passengers, you don't get much benefit from the rear stage, although the 6x9s would also add a bit of decent bass more than the splits can offer.

Hmm apart from that. Going to order/grab an O-ring tomorrow from Nissan for the tiny cooling system leak I have. Then will also get a new bottle of coolant and change the coolant again so that is all spot on.

Once we're registered, its straight off to the muffler shop on Wednesday for a new rear muffler and decent 2.5" diameter black dump pipe, still hidden behind the modified rear bumper.

I have approximately 3 weeks off until I start a new job, so intending to get EVERYTHING sorted in that timeslot. The other thing that I am keen to do is drop off the gearbox once again and straighten the fingers on the pressure plate back out. A while back I did a very poor gear change with the short shifter and missed a gear completely, but it kind of half went in and I sent a fair bit of power through the flywheel and the clutch absorbed it. This over-heated the fingers on the pressure plate, and now my clutch pedal vibrates badly as the bent fingers with varying heights click over the release bearing as everything rotates. heheh.

Should be a piece of cake to fix. Just drop the box, then grab some pliers and bend the offending fingers back into place. And just be careful with stupid launches and gear changes in the future. SMOOOTH is the go. Well factory shifter is back in place now, so all is well in that department. Errol has suggested a couple of times that for running this much power, perhaps the JUN flywheel is not thick enough, and thus allows too much heat to go straight through it to the pressure plate. Makes perfect sense, but I also wonder, with this much power, would the factory flywheel do the same anyway.. I'm not sure.. Big performance and drivability improvement from the JUN, so I'm loving it. But I noticed the NISMO lightweight flywheel for the k11 is more like 5.5Kg. Perhaps they have made it a bit heavier to combat this exact problem of the flywheel being too thin in a high powered micra.

That's about it.

As soon as I get home with a set of number plates tomorrow, I'll be lowering the suspension back down by about 50mm so it sits at a very nice height where it used to be.
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
One more funny thing. I happened to discover about 3m of un-used speaker cable pair running from near the head unit, behind the pedals, and along the driver's side cable tunnel out into the rear of the car. For rear speakers from my very old previous basic setup where no amp was involved.

Man, didn't even realist that wire was hiding there and costing me weight and untidyness. hahaha. Ripped it straight out and away you go. Funny what you find my accident sometimes.
 

CMF_Yom

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Thats pretty much exactly what a race clutch specialist (Jim Berry) said to GTRHOLIC and myself when discussing lightweight flywheels.

The Datrats design flywheel has alot of meat to it compared to the pictures of the JUN in the media section.

Goodluck with it cisco. Remember that once it is registered you have no more excuses to not take it to the racetrack and see what it can do. :p

Cheers
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
I'll definately give you a buzz once its registered and running smoothly..

Just went for a spin then (still no plates), but got the 1 day permit taped onto the window. Filled it right up with optimax, and noticed some creaking because the intercooler wasn't bolted from underneath. Just installed a bolt, and now completely all gone and car going reasonably well.

Got the exhaust blocker in there making it effectively a 0.5" exhaust, so can't give it a squirt yet. Slows it down heaps and puts mixtures etc at risk.

I'm worried they are going to be picky bastards just to fail it on something. Because I'm pretty sure the car is deadset clean as a whistle now and should pass. But because of that, they could well decide to be smart-ar5es and fail it just so I have to come back and they get off on a powertrip. Oh well, let's see!
 

CMF_evade

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
good luck!

if the cars running on a map sensor, i dunno how microtech goes but my ecu actually runs richer when I have a more restrictive exhaust on..ie silencer..

gives me better reason to not run it.

and my fuel economy is in to the mid-low 7's now..change my driving a bit and combined with that fine tune its kicking arse.
 

CMF_Sean

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Hey cisco!

Don't worry mate! They're minor fixes at least...

You could fix them all tomorrow if you really wanted and book it in and have it rego'd by the end of this week!

Cheer up mate

Seano
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Ugh. Yeah spat the dummy again.

FAILED. Reasons:
- Adjustable boost controller not allowed. What the?? The engineer never wrote about this on the certificate. So I asked "Will it pass if the engineer includes this on the report?" He said "Well it could, but our technical officer would still need to approve it." - So will it or won't it you idiot. So I got home and ripped out the boost controller and the wastegate is plummed straight to the vacumm line now. That will pass. I told the same engineer cert let me pass a couple of years ago. He said "things have tightened up since then".

- Tiny engine oil leak. Well I need rego so that I can drive around to get that fixed! Oh well I'll just drive around unregistered and get it fixed, I am absolutely not buying any more of these 1 day rip off permits when not one person has checked one of them for correct date yet.

- The Engineer made a mistake and wrote that my wheels are 16.5" wide. Well obviously that's a ridiculous mistake and he meant 6.5".. So the guy failed it because of that also, and I need to go back and tell the engineer to correct my $550 latest certificate.

- Front brake hoses not correctly secured. The only one that I legitimately think is "fair enough" and I can simply fix with some zip ties.

COSTS: Today cost $28 for the inspection. Plus $28 for a 1-day rego permit.

Now its going to cost another $11 for a "re-inspection", plus I need to re-book that which will be on any given day as they are always booked out by a couple of days.

Also it means more 1 day driving permits, or I think they can give you a week-long one because I have failed the inspection.

Just lucky I'm not at work right now, as I wouldn't have the time to run around and sort all this **** out.

Will visit the engineer and get the certificate fixed ASAP tomorrow morning, boost controller already removed, will ZIP tie the brake lines tomorrow. And will drop the car off at a mechanic to have both the oil leak and the coolant leak fixed 100% before going back.
 

CMF_White Knight

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
What the f.... They can fail you over an oil leak ? ****e most cars would fail.
Typical bloody public servants.Its their job so they think to make life as difficult as possible and are not there to help.
Stick with it Cisco.
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Yeah cracks you to pieces.

This lady came in in her late model AUDI, totally factory soccer mum car etc etc.

She drives smack bang into the height measurement rails and then the tyres go "screech". And she passes no worries, and I drive in dead straight and FAIL because of this kind of stuff that they know I can go straight away fix and return so I pass.

Its quite corrupt I would say.
 

Attachments

  • 15344.jpg
    15344.jpg
    86 KB · Views: 49

CMF_Toma

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
The greatest achievements are won when the greatest effort is applied.

Itll be well worth it! :)

Next time, ask to see their supervisor before getting tested because last time someone made an error (the 16.5" wheels (lol)) and then they might start being more legit.
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Yeah won't take long.

- Boost controller already removed.
- Zip tie up brake lines tomorrow
- Fix engineer's cert tomorrow.

Only thing is the oil leaks. Could possibly wipe them clean and go straight in and get tested.
 

CMF_micra-man

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Will not take you long to get it sorted Aaron.

Must be hell getting any 1960s British car or bike registered then if they are worried about an oil leak as small as the one you have! ;-)

Or perhaps with the British cars & bikes, as the oil leaks are "factory standard" they let it pass.

 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Yeah as a friend in Japan would say: "Men, that's bull ****!". hahahaha.
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Engineer will have cert fixed by lunchtime.

Boost switch removed.

Brakes lines now secured better.

Damn oil leak!!! Going out to suss that out right now from underneath on the ramps.
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Allright:

Car is booked in for Wednesday week at Ben's again. He is going to fix the oil leak coming from inside the turbo. Fix the coolant leak. Fix what is possibly a bit of oil dribbling out from underneath the sump oil drain fitting.

Not bad, Ben is always booked out, so just 1 week's notice is pretty good. Happy with that. He said he has some generic parts for the common turbos, and he could most likely fix it all in the same day. Bloody great.

So Blue Monster should be well and truly alive and well by then.

So rego postponed for another 2 weeks basically. But will be well worth it, Ben does fantastic work.
 

cisco

» CMF Member
Member since:
Posts:
Allright, brake lines are all secured nicely now.

Just used a hose clamp wrapped around the strut, with a thick zip tie coming out of the hose clamp and grabbing the metal knob in the brake lines to tighten it into the strut. Looks pretty tidy actually.

Going to pick up engineer's cert. Well that's basically it. Now its just a waiting game for hopefully a guaranteed pass.
 
Back
Top