• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to rip out the engine loom to replace that faulty alternator wire

IMG_20211211_130903.jpg
IMG_20211211_131405.jpg


oops, with half the wires snapped off the terminal, a blotch of bad solder plus a loose connection where I crimped this red cable to the original/oxidised alternator 14v cable, no wonder there was a huge voltage drop to the battery πŸ™ˆ

IMG_20211211_132745.jpg


peeling all the old tape off, most of which was all brittle & very oily inside after 24yrs

IMG_20211211_134852.jpg


so here's the layout of this engine loom.

IMG_20211211_135532.jpg


I had a dilema of whether to keep the 24yr old white/red alternator cable & "black connector block" (neater) and crimp a new section of cable to the alternator end (more connections, more voltage drops, more failures),

or run a single, fresh, thicker cable (less connectors, less resistance, more reliable) from the alternator and simply bolt it to the cars loom separately to the "black connector block" (cos it uses a special blade terminal).

...decided to just replace that cable and began wrapping it all together (I only had red electrical tape πŸ™ˆ)

IMG_20211211_175226.jpg
IMG_20211211_181049.jpg


fed it through the engine

IMG_20211211_182522.jpg


you can see where I bolted the new thicker red alternator wire to the white/red wire leading the to the fusebox (bolt was later heatshrinked).
so the original "black connector block" just holds the black/yellow starter solenoid wire now.
I also joined the white/green cable & white/red cable into 1 lug terminal (make it neater) where it's bolted to the battery cable.

IMG_20211211_204901.jpg
IMG_20211211_205425.jpg


tomorrow I'll finish securing the new loom, and the new earthing wire

IMG_20211211_211717.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the old P-clips are too small for the thicker cables, so I just flattened them out like this and tied the harness to them

IMG_20211212_145411.jpg
IMG_20211212_152225.jpg

all secured and now battery reading a good 13.2v (loaded) 14.3v (unloaded) and 0.3v voltage drop from alternator to battery.
I think the battery fuse section of the fusebox still has abit of resistance there :unsure: but overall it's a big improvement

IMG_20211212_152248.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my centre punch broke few months ago, so I just machined a new piece on the lathe and it's working again, easy fix 😁

IMG_20211216_201228.jpg


wednesday we had the last car meet of the year plus a secret santa gift round

IMG_20211215_194148.jpg


one of my good friends also surprised me with a nice drawing of kassandra :love:
luv it soo much, I added it to my wall of driving memories :cool:πŸ“Έ

IMG_20211217_213621.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Good news, she passed her MOT with flying colours this year! 😍πŸ₯³πŸ₯³πŸ‘
only advisory was a small nail on the rear tyre.

I'm used to seeing her initially fail on some minor things each year like worn joints, blown bulb, sticking seatbelt, rust, emissions, etc
I even ordered another spare set of spherical bearings just incase.

IMG_20211222_233912.jpg


but nope, everything was tip-top.

This makes a nice change for xmas 😁
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
my friend with a Zafira was after some custom side window louvres

258325695_604335670718755_8792936523802052145_n.jpg


I traced the window shape from clear vinyl onto some perspex sheet (was suppose to order tougher polycarbonate but ended up with more brittle acrylic perspex sheet)

IMG_20211228_141845.jpg


trimmed into shape

IMG_20211228_152302.jpg


marked the louvres

IMG_20211229_003550.jpg


dremelled & cleaned the slots

IMG_20211230_203407.jpg
IMG_20211230_205604.jpg


clamped down each section and slotted a steel sheet under the slot

IMG_20211231_195807.jpg


after warming with a heatgun, I lift the steel plate at a set angle to evenly open the louvre shape

IMG_20211231_202756.jpg


I accidentally snapped a brittle section off whilst removing the clamps 🀬 hopefully I can glue it

IMG_20211231_203838.jpg


vents all formed

IMG_20211231_211238.jpg


painted the backside black, leaving the other side glossy 😎

IMG_20211231_212312.jpg
IMG_20211231_224419.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the old brittle switch cover on my pillar drill was recently damaged

IMG_20220101_181824.jpg


so I printed a new one

IMG_20220101_194944.jpg
IMG_20220101_194958.jpg


fixed

IMG_20220101_195839.jpg


time to replace this loose fabric under my boot lid

IMG_20220103_141037.jpg


fastened a spare cover with rivet nuts

IMG_20220103_143229.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
brought this independant 4-jaw chuck on ebay in the hope of centering the part for better accuracy

IMG_20220106_190851.jpg
IMG_20220106_200652.jpg


100mm dia 4 jaw independant chuck vs 3 jaw self-centering chuck

IMG_20220106_201153.jpg


the backplate has holes for the 3-stud & 4-stud pattern

IMG_20220106_201323_1.jpg
IMG_20220106_201329.jpg


unfortunately it turns out the jaws are not machined perfectly parallel to the spindle axis so this rod piece spins wonky with some serious run-out (rod axis doesn't follow the lathe spindle axis) :mad:
guess I'll have to figure later how to regrind the jaws straighter :rolleyes:

IMG_20220106_204902.jpg


swapped back to the original 3-jaw chuck and is perfectly straight. guess the cheap 4-jaw chuck skipped some quality control πŸ˜…
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
was thinking the oyster sauce covered air filter was probably picking up some warm air behind the radiator so sometimes it feels pokier when the coolant or ambient air is cold vs other warmer times πŸ€”

IMG_20220106_122124.jpg


perhaps I could relocate the coolant tank and duct the filter over to the wing panel away from heat & rain much like on Dave Shaws blue turbo micra

IMG_20220106_122207.jpg


wiring loom may have to be rerouted from the bottom hole

IMG_20220106_122435.jpg


printed this adapter cone for the oyster sauce can to fit some cheap 100mm flexible ducting

IMG_20220106_235644.jpg
IMG_20220106_235616.jpg
IMG_20220106_235537.jpg


selected 100mm for larger area, less restriction to compensate for the turbulate tubing, plus it's only Β£2 for 4" duct compared to Β£30+ for the 2.5-2.75" duct

IMG_20220106_235545.jpg
IMG_20220107_000048.jpg
IMG_20220106_235959.jpg


shortened the excess length of the pipe too

IMG_20220107_195402.jpg


once ducting is finished it'll hopefully keep heat away from the intake

IMG_20220107_203343.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
made a compact coolant tank from an old bottle of vinegar, alloy pipe and a bracket sandwiched between the cap (which as a bonus prevents the cap top from fully sealing, allowing air to leak past the thread gaps and venting the bottle. could drill extra holes if needed)

IMG_20220108_194527.jpg


fitted next to the radiator

IMG_20220108_202032.jpg


enlarged the hole in the wing section to slot the flexible ducting through

IMG_20220108_202053.jpg
IMG_20220108_202717.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday I chopped the larger hole for the ducting

IMG_20220109_121922.jpg


cusioned the sharp edge with some silicone tubing

IMG_20220109_122604.jpg


and fed the ducting through the hole

IMG_20220109_123456.jpg


also curled up this coolant bottle hose to keep the fluid level nearby the rad cap & reduce the air gap

IMG_20220109_125327.jpg


ducting taped onto the air filter shield/adapter

IMG_20220109_125336.jpg
IMG_20220109_125355.jpg


went for a test drive and oooh there is definately a noticeable difference, it feels more pokey throughout the revs with less flat spots whether the engine is hot or cold :cool:πŸ‘Œ

also fitted my m8s new window louvre onto their zafira, had to patiently bend it with the heatgun to follow the curvy glass. looks cool :cool:

IMG_20220109_141554.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
designed this mount to fit my dremel onto the mini lathe to straighten the 4 jaw chuck

dremel mounting 1.jpg


3d printed the parts

IMG_20220113_230841.jpg
IMG_20220113_230623.jpg


bolted onto the slider

IMG_20220113_231040.jpg


dremel clamped on

IMG_20220113_231454.jpg
IMG_20220113_231515.jpg


used a loop of steel wire to preload the ends of each jaw under tension to simulate the clamping stresses

IMG_20220114_203925.jpg


marking the jaw face with red pen and then doing a light initial pass, you can clearly see just how warped these cheap jaws are to begin with.

this explains why they only held at the very tip of the jaws allowing the rod/material to move/wobble around inaccurately πŸ™„

IMG_20220114_212043.jpg


going through several very light passes with the dremel until all the red pen was machined off resulting in a straight surface aligned to the spindle axis

IMG_20220114_212923.jpg
IMG_20220114_213119.jpg
IMG_20220114_213130.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
thank you John (y)

just numbered each jaw and then re-centered the chuck & rods and the run-out is a lot better.
it ain't perfect, there's a 5thou difference between near the chuck and 6 inch along the straight rod, but it'll do

IMG_20220115_122040.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
:eek:
Didn't that hurt? i couldn't...
Couldn't you get the tubing to the driver side front grille? Could have gotten a little bit of a ram air effect as well.
hurt? not at all, I used the dremel cutting disc on it but it was a tight space to cut around (a hole cutter would've been better but didn't have the right size).

while the slightly +ve ram-air pressure from an open CAI funnel would've been nice at high speed it has a few issues such as:
- the oil catch cans are already behind the grills,
- heat from the manifold would cook/melt the intake ducting when stationary,
- rain/snow/water would flow directly into the filter

plumbing it over to the wing panel provides a consistantly cold & clean shielded air source with non of the drawbacks listed above
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
comparing the fitment of my old bumper vs a spare one

IMG_20220116_135534.jpg


the spare bumper mount looks more original than my old ones which seems to be a poor copy part with a missing captive nut & bracing.
the old mounts are also tapered by 1mm to fit deeper into the old bumper.
so the spare white bracket mounts with a broader front section won't fit onto my old bumper :unsure:

IMG_20220116_140910.jpg


ended up having to bend/squeeze the front parts more slimmer so that it can slot deeper into the bumper without fouling

IMG_20220117_192654.jpg


so slotting the old bumper onto the car in it's relaxed state, it's very clear to see that the drivers side of the bumper it about 10mm too wide, so bolting the sides to the wings would often deform it out of shape. I suspect this might be a cheap poor quality copy-part

IMG_20220116_144811 copy.jpg


whereas this spare bumper (probably original oem) fit's much closer to the wings

IMG_20220116_145023 copy.jpg


later in spring I'll repair & paint this spare bumper
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
repaired the bumper LED wiring which snapped off

IMG_20220123_130937.jpg
IMG_20220123_140250.jpg


this cheap PVC flexible hose for the intake kept breaking apart from repeated bending & engine vibration :rolleyes:

IMG_20220124_190644.jpg


so I brought some aluminium semi-flex hose from B&Q, but it has a 103mm ID/114mm OD whereas the 90mm hole I cut was suited for the PVC hose with 90mm ID / 105mm OD

IMG_20220124_191919.jpg


printed this 90mm - 103mm diameter adapter

IMG_20220124_234619.jpg


the inside bore is also smoother as a bonus

IMG_20220125_000008.jpg


now that fits snug, the semi-rigid duct holds it's shape much better and it's soo shiny :cool::cool:

IMG_20220125_001244.jpg
IMG_20220125_001301.jpg


after a few days commuting, it's held up much better than the PVC hose (y)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the loose headunit buttons had an annoying rattle 😀

IMG_20220127_193305.jpg


so I wedged some card in the gaps πŸ˜›

IMG_20220127_202100.jpg


the plugs are still fine after 3 months

IMG_20220127_204723.jpg


the 9yr old washer pump was starting to make an odd noise, probably worn out motor, so I ordered a new one from ebay

IMG_20220126_223359.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
haven't recorded a video & datalog for the past 6 months and now it's s bit drier but still cold Feb.
to fit the GoPro I first have to print a new better mount for it

IMG_20220202_174652.jpg
IMG_20220202_175852.jpg
IMG_20220202_232036.jpg
IMG_20220202_231941.jpg


much more rigid

IMG_20220203_143147.jpg
IMG_20220203_143217.jpg


went for a drive through the usual route. unfortunately the stereo cockpit mic wasn't connected properly 😫 so I ended up editing the remaining muffled audio from the exhaust & foot well camera


and here's a datalog of it.


battery is running 13.3v compared to 13v previously.
MAF at low rpm is reading slightly lower than last yr, maybe dirty.
as a result the injectors are running slightly less duty.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cleaned the potentially dirty maf sensor & IACV after seeing a slightly lower reading in datascan

IMG_20220204_123302.jpg
IMG_20220204_123338.jpg


catchcans done a nice job keeping oil away from the manifold :cool:

IMG_20220204_124207.jpg


time for a coolant change after 2yrs

IMG_20220204_131329.jpg


wasn't happy with seeing some debris on the TB mesh and it's been 4yrs since my last air filter so I brought a new one on ebay

IMG_20220209_202849.jpg
IMG_20220209_202920.jpg


just look at the filthy dark old filter vs new red one :oops:

IMG_20220210_195438.jpg
IMG_20220210_195450.jpg
IMG_20220210_200028.jpg


cut it open to look inside at the elements, can see tiny gaps of light where dust could leak through. been told they should be re-oiled frequently rather than left dry?

IMG_20220211_222332.jpg
IMG_20220211_222448.jpg
IMG_20220211_222509.jpg


the element itself looks like a woven plastic fibre

IMG_20220213_145515.jpg


new one installed

IMG_20220210_200807.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to replace this old flimsy rusty broken center bar with a new stiffer tubular pipe

IMG_20220206_172027.jpg
IMG_20220206_191106.jpg
IMG_20220206_191111.jpg
IMG_20220206_191445.jpg
IMG_20220206_192036.jpg

IMG_20220306_145308.jpg


this is a lot stiffer and the bonnet, catch & headlights no longer vibrate as much (y)
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
didn't like this tight restrictive elbow on this GT15 turbo

IMG_20220211_223809.jpg
IMG_20220213_152416.jpg


which limited the wastegate opening & flow

IMG_20220213_152537.jpg
IMG_20220213_152356.jpg


so I chopped it off

IMG_20220213_155756.jpg
IMG_20220213_160120.jpg
IMG_20220213_163418.jpg
IMG_20220213_164911.jpg


now the WG can fully open and I could fabricate a better flowing elbow onto the end

IMG_20220213_165446.jpg
IMG_20220213_165725.jpg
IMG_20220213_165800.jpg
IMG_20220213_165850.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the wheel arch lining had some annoying rattling rusty screws & loose push rivets

IMG_20220220_160300.jpg


so I replaced them with rivet nuts & stainless fasteners

IMG_20220220_162233.jpg


really nice to drive along with no more rattles :cool:

IMG_20220220_163504.jpg


replaced the screenwash pump which has been whining

IMG_20220220_162248.jpg


as usual, the shaft rubber seal was worn, allowing water into the motor to rust

IMG_20220220_164728.jpg


graphite contacts still had plenty of life left

IMG_20220220_165225.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
removed the front wing

IMG_20220227_115452.jpg


removed the loom to reroute it from below

IMG_20220227_120951.jpg


chopped the hole larger for the 100mm ducting

IMG_20220227_122317.jpg
IMG_20220227_124858.jpg


spotted this rust hole which was letting water leak down into the a-pillar/sills, so I welded it up

IMG_20220227_124453.jpg
IMG_20220227_134827.jpg


but had a brief panic! when I saw smoke coming out the dashboard.
looked under the footwell behind the welding section and saw a little FIRE :eek:

as I ran to look for the garage extinguisher like a headless chicken I immediately decided to grab the nearby garden hose and soak the area.
the wiring may not like it but thankfully it worked πŸ™ˆ
turned out it was just the damn seam-sealer catching fire as usual and the insulation/dash/wiring etc was fine.
that was scary.

IMG_20220227_134832.jpg


printed this adapter plate for mounting the ducting to the wing panel

IMG_20220228_000101.jpg
IMG_20220228_000937.jpg


that's a straighter path

IMG_20220227_144141.jpg


went for a drive and it's a slight improvement plus there's a bit more induction noise coming through the wing panel and into the passenger footwell 😁

 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've been designing a new manifold for the past few months and one design requires lots of precise 10deg mandrel bend pie cuts, so I made this quick jig for the bandsaw

IMG_20220228_205454.jpg
IMG_20220228_203144.jpg


it was tedious work cutting, deburring & smoothing all 18 pie-cuts from 1 U-bend, 3 more to go πŸ™„

IMG_20220228_212602.jpg
IMG_20220303_210708.jpg
IMG_20220303_211443.jpg


it's a starting point πŸ€ͺ
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
friends suzuki swift was having a lack of power issue recently, I tried testing every single possible mechanical/electrical issue with no faults found.

the only last resort is to check if it's starved of fuel, so I brought a fuel pressure tester

IMG_20220304_185958.jpg


tested it on kassandra first, she reads normal.
43.5psi when first primed on IGN,
34psi when pump stops after 4sec,
34psi with cold engine at idle,
constant 43.5psi at any rpm with fuel regulator vac line unplugged.

IMG_20220304_195534.jpg


ready to use the gauge on the Swift in few days
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
extended the scissor jack head slightly taller so that it can lift the car without damaging the LED strip taped along the sills

IMG_20220305_162759.jpg
IMG_20220305_172311.jpg
IMG_20220305_172743.jpg


the first intake ducting adapter didn't align well with the hole and the perpendicular angle was bending the ducting & putting stress on the pod filter

IMG_20220305_133952.jpg


so I designed it with a smooth bend pointing towards the filter and a thicker base to stop it flexing

front wing duct panel 3.jpg
IMG_20220305_190756.jpg


lined up better

IMG_20220305_191619.jpg


now the ducting is straighter, less stress on the air filter mount and a smoother airflow :cool:

IMG_20220305_192407.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
brought some fresh covers for the new coilovers cos the old ones are slightly torn

IMG_20220310_190903.jpg


the white alloys were absolute filthy with iron so I swapped over to my track wheels to clean them

IMG_20220314_180425.jpg


buffed all 4 wheels with G3 compound to remove the caked iron oxide

IMG_20220314_191234.jpg


IMG_20220314_195934.jpg


back to wearing her pearly whites :cool:

IMG_20220314_201828.jpg


fill this gap in my seat belt bracket so I can use the seatbelt locking clip during trackdays

IMG_20220320_170631.jpg
IMG_20220320_170513.jpg


IMG_20220321_152736.jpg


replaced the fuel filter

IMG_20220401_171827.jpg


the old WK66 filter was still intact and clean after 1yr

IMG_20220401_181146.jpg


brought a pair of GTIR caliper rebuild kit I found on ebay for Β£18, hopefully replace the torn piston dust boot soon

IMG_20220402_134825.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2022-04-02 Fit new BC BR coilovers

Time to install the new coilovers, but first I was curious to see her slammed low 😁
so I removed the springs off the old BC V1 coilover

IMG_20220402_143931.jpg
IMG_20220402_152322.jpg
IMG_20220402_152546.jpg


sickk! πŸ€ͺπŸ™ˆ
the rear was wayy too low with the tyres rubbing/ripping the bumper mount off whilst pushing her out the garage, had to remove the spacers to narrow the wheel track & allow it to move 😬

looks neat but highly impractical & inconvenient for me πŸ˜…

IMG_20220402_162158.jpg
IMG_20220402_162215.jpg


removed the old dampers

IMG_20220402_171258.jpg


swapped the rear top mounts over & matched the bottom mount length

IMG_20220402_172624.jpg


comparing the various lengths of BC rear springs πŸ€”

left: the original BC V1 rear coils are 3kg/mm and 200mm long

middle: new BC BR rear coils are also 3kg/mm but only 180mm long, which might cause issues with being uncaptive when you lower it too much considering the new dampers have a longer travel

right: the 5kg/mm rear coils I brought for the V1 is 190mm long, has a wide ball shape and is curved over

IMG_20220402_163231.jpg


the old spring perch screwed under the chassis was really seized, so decided to leave it on

IMG_20220402_171315.jpg


cleaned the threads and screwed the new BC BR adjuster rings onto the old perch and fitted the new dampers

IMG_20220402_174640.jpg


adjusted the bottom ring to set the rear bumpstop

IMG_20220402_180237.jpg


until the tyres clear the arch/bumper/exhaust etc by 5mm when you jack up the axle beam

IMG_20220402_180205.jpg


with the bumpstops set, I fit & adjust the rear springs till it sits at the target -50mm height

IMG_20220402_182704.jpg


now for the fronts, removed the springs, roughly set the bottom hub upright ring to match the old setup

IMG_20220402_203719.jpg


fit the unsprung strut & wheels

IMG_20220402_204456.jpg


lift the wheel up (lock to lock) with a jack underneath (wedging the brake pedal on helps to lock the wheels steady) until it hits bumpstop and lifts the body.
measure the gap and readjust the bottom ring till the tyre just clears the arch & chassis by 5mm

IMG_20220402_205053.jpg
IMG_20220402_210803.jpg
IMG_20220402_210957.jpg


IMG_20220402_211025.jpg


reinstall the front springs with zero preload

IMG_20220402_214251.jpg


the new front springs sit 15mm too high even at zero preload πŸ€”

IMG_20220402_221021.jpg


my options are either:
-raise the bottom hub ring without touching the bumpstops, which drops the height but tyres will hit the arch during bumpstop.
-raise the bottom hub ring (to drop the height) and increase the bumpstops with washers on top to prevent tyres rubbing the arch but at the cost of reduced droop travel.
-fit helper springs to drop it by 35mm but retain the same bumpstop, bottom ring position & full suspension travel, which is my ideal choice

IMG_20220403_121210.jpg


I first fitted the helper springs & set the adjuster ring at the lowest relaxed position to see where it sits.
it now sat 20mm below target

IMG_20220403_122240.jpg


so now I can raise the adjuster ring to increase preload, squishing the helper spring and raising the height back up to my target -50mm lowered height

IMG_20220403_130259.jpg


fitted the protective coilover covers

IMG_20220403_142004.jpg
IMG_20220403_115235.jpg


new coilovers sitting at the correct ride height (y):cool:

IMG_20220403_161006.jpg


IMG_20220403_161035.jpg


needs an alignment & corner balancing soon
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
realigned the wheels with 2.4deg camber & zero toe

IMG_20220405_223505.jpg
IMG_20220405_225308.jpg


went for a drive and noticed a few differences to the old BC V1, which had stiffer springs btw:
  • Steering doesn't 'clunk' anymore when jiggling left-right whilst stationary (the old coilover had slightly worn top mounts & damper shaft bushing)
  • Much better traction (during launches, fast cornering, over crests, cornering over rippling road) with dial at full soft, probably due to softer dampening & softer springs
  • Absorbs bumps alot smoother with less harshness with dial at full soft (maybe softer fast-bump setting)
  • More progressive handling/weight transfer during cornering
  • Passenger mirror no longer shakes as much (means less vibration is transferring to the chassis)
  • Old coilover has lost 10mm of available travel compared to when new (meaning it's lost some oil over 11yrs and the floating nitrogen piston has travelled further up, reducing the overall travel space inside)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Manual cruise control

With an upcoming long 4hr journey to/from Silverstone for japfest, I decided to make this crude hand control so that I can switch between using my leg or hands on the throttle

handle1.jpg


printed & glued handle together

IMG_20220404_235140.jpg


IMG_20220406_234133.jpg


IMG_20220406_235716.jpg


cut a slot across the pedal to hold the bicycle cable, which can also be easily slipped off by my foot whenever I wanna disengage it

IMG_20220407_193753.jpg


IMG_20220407_195549.jpg


works nicely along the motorway 😁

IMG_20220407_200026.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
with an upcoming trackday, my current GTIR front brakes (2yr old) seemed slightly too rusty, worn & scored.
so as a precaution I brought a fresh set of disc & pads (blueprint ADN14364 & Borg&Beck BBP1156) for use on trackdays, and use the old set just for daily commutes.

IMG_20220408_180331.jpg


soo shiny, I just had to fit them immediately 😁

IMG_20220408_180744.jpg


IMG_20220408_180814.jpg


the rim of the discs are stamped:
BLUEPRINT E11 90R-02C01275/30986 ADN14364 0141 BD26360 0208 MIN THK 23.9MM

the old discs have a larger 9.25mm vent but less mass,
whereas these new blueprint discs have a thicker mass but reduced 6.50mm vent slot.

IMG_20220408_181113.jpg


removed the old brakes

IMG_20220408_200645.jpg


hmm the lower ball joint dust boot is ripped, needs replacing soon

IMG_20220408_203303.jpg


wirebrushed rust off the hub face

IMG_20220408_203250.jpg


old brakes are slightly worn.
FR disc worn from 26.05 - 25.56mm (0.20 inside, 1.04 outside)
FL disc worn from 26.05 - 25.47mm (0.43 inside, 1.20 outside)
minimum limit is 24mm

pads have worn from 14.90 to 13mm

IMG_20220408_203954.jpg


cleaned the carrier cage to make sure the pads can slide smoothly

IMG_20220408_220901.jpg


new brakes fitted ready for bedding & the long journey down on the weekend :cool:

IMG_20220408_231536.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
new brakes assembled. they feel like slippery stones at the moment until they are fully bedded in after few hundred miles

IMG_20220409_104241.jpg


began wiping & polishing the engine bay

IMG_20220409_111158.jpg


all clean & ready for the show tomorrow :cool:(y)

IMG_20220409_125520.jpg
 
Quote (9 April); β€œmy current GTIR front brakes (2yr old) seemed slightly too rusty, worn & scored.”

I noticed your photo shows 2 year old discs that appear more scabby & wear rigged then my K11s 24 year old 61K Nissan OEM discs & this effectively questions the efficacy durability of GTIR & other aftermarket brake parts?
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Quote (9 April); β€œmy current GTIR front brakes (2yr old) seemed slightly too rusty, worn & scored.”

I noticed your photo shows 2 year old discs that appear more scabby & wear rigged then my K11s 24 year old 61K Nissan OEM discs & this effectively questions the efficacy durability of GTIR & other aftermarket brake parts?
bare in mind they're driven to work every day, through all weather including salty winter, and pushed extremely hard during occasional trackdays , I'd say it looks normal given it's application and budget.

the piston or inner pad sliders might've been sticking, causing the inside to wear more with a lip.
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2022-04-10 Japfest Silverstone

After not much sleep, I set off at 3am to meet with a convoy in leeds

IMG_20220410_062010.jpg

IMG_20220410_055851.jpg


8am we all arrive at Silverstone to join the MicraMafia stand. a lot more cars & members turned up this year

IMG_20220410_081656.jpg
IMG_20220410_091518.jpg
IMG_20220410_100942.jpg


it was a lovely sunny day and omg this show was insanely huge & brimmed with cars & crowds. I only walked round 75% of it till my legs had enough and I was overwhelmed with the ocean of cars to look at o_O

IMG_20220410_120548.jpg
IMG_20220410_133349.jpg


everyone leaving the show at 3pm was a gridlocked nightmare πŸ˜…

whilst stopping over for a break, fuel & checking the car, I noticed the coolant tank was almost empty 😬
eek that could've almost overheated.
I topped it up with water and it leaked out 😳

IMG_20220410_192925.jpg


found the plastic bottle had a tiny crack at the bottom πŸ€”
bit of ducktape sealed it enough to get me home 🀭

IMG_20220410_192938.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
The 2yr old lower ball joint has been knocking really badly whenever the offside wheel go over bumps and also found the 5yr old ball joint dust boot has torn from the steep angle, allowing water in

IMG_20220408_203316.jpg


taking the lower cover off and eww
the water & crap leaking through the broken rubber boot has turned the red rubber grease into solid rubbery gunk which obviously ain't helping the bearing 🀒

IMG_20220412_210003.jpg


moving the suspension throughout it's travel, I discovered that the bearing sat at the wrong angle relative to the hub extension and the lower arm.

the bearing is only aligned straight when strut is fully compressed πŸ™„
but rests at a steep 22deg when fully drooped/relaxed.
SKP says the max bearing misalignment angle is just 19deg! so it's definately damaging the bearing & stretching the dust boot everytime I lifted the car 😬

calculated I'll need to angle the end of the suspension arm by 12.5deg to keep the new bearing within it's operating range

IMG_20220412_210710 compared.jpg


removed the lower arms

IMG_20220412_214213.jpg


there's always one last bolt that fights to come off 😀

IMG_20220412_223533.jpg


bit of patience & lube and bolt finally comes off without sheering and both arms removed

IMG_20220412_230118.jpg


jesus, look at the horrible offside bearing 😳

IMG_20220413_001833.jpg


nearside bearing ain't as bad but still contaminated with moisture and worn slightly sloppy

IMG_20220413_002403.jpg


removed the bearings and cleaned up the arms

IMG_20220413_192451.jpg


IMG_20220413_192507.jpg


the nearside bearing still has a shiny ball but the teflon lining has worn out & turned mushy

IMG_20220413_192616.jpg


the offside bearing was seriously ruined by water, turning the grease to goop, rusting/pitting the chrome ball which shredded the teflon lining apart and making it loose

IMG_20220413_192647.jpg


chopped it open for a better view

IMG_20220505_205547.jpg


wirebrushed all the rust off to inspect the old welds

IMG_20220413_204851.jpg


passenger arm still intact & ok

IMG_20220413_205014.jpg


drivers side also fine

IMG_20220413_205117.jpg


IMG_20220413_205211.jpg


measured the bearing mount angles relative to the arm and found the passenger arm is 2deg steeper and 1mm shorter than the drivers side πŸ€”

IMG_20220413_212440.jpg


to correct this issue I cut a slot near the ends

IMG_20220414_190615.jpg


angled them upwards from 12deg to 24.5deg

IMG_20220414_192011.jpg


and welded small plates over the slots from both sides

IMG_20220414_203515.jpg


IMG_20220414_203819.jpg


IMG_20220414_221515.jpg


IMG_20220414_205726.jpg


this should hopefully reduce premature wear for longer.
just need to paint them & fit new bearings 😎
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
brushed KuRust all over the arm to slow down the existing rust

IMG_20220415_132300.jpg


primered

IMG_20220415_141449.jpg


black was bit too boring so I sprayed it red instead 😁
I recall from matt endeans comment that the brighter colour may also make it slightly easier to spot any cracks earlier

IMG_20220415_164751.jpg


fit new bearings

IMG_20220415_170637.jpg


reinstall the bushings & dust boot

IMG_20220415_192220.jpg


new dust boot seems ok

IMG_20220415_192248.jpg


arms installed :cool:

IMG_20220415_204451.jpg


IMG_20220415_204550.jpg


measured the new range of motions and it's perfect πŸ˜ƒ

the ball joint angles only max out at +-6deg from compressed to drooped (SKF bearing max angle is 19deg),
and at normal ride height, the joint sits pretty straight, which will help reduce bearing wear when steering and reduce stress on the rubber boot πŸ‘Œ

IMG_20220415_210402 compared.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
rest of the suspension installed & swaybars regreased

IMG_20220416_123519.jpg


IMG_20220416_123537.jpg

IMG_20220416_145809.jpg


went for a test drive, chucking it round corners & bumps etc and it's fine. suspension is soo much smoother & progressive feeling with no more little clunking noises :cool:

resprayed & labelled the old rusty catch can lids

IMG_20220416_202701.jpg

IMG_20220417_193847.jpg

IMG_20220417_193918.jpg


went to a last minute classic car meet over the easter weekend

IMG_20220417_144502.jpg


visited a local m8 Jack to grab a few spare goodies 😁
-pair of front windows (my 1993 windows are really scratched)
-rear bumper beam (min has rusted away & bent upwards)
-rear 1/4 (hopefully a bit easier to chop out the rotten lip & weld on this spare arch lip instead of rebuilding it from scratch)
-modify these manual window mech to fit my electric window motors

IMG_20220418_174753.jpg

IMG_20220418_190926.jpg
 

andy

Ex. Club Member
well i was just coming out of asda at about 5:45 tonight, and there was you walking in the door :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: by the time me brain fucntioned and i turned around and trying to remember ya name it was to late(n)

the motor is looking better in the flesh like (y) had a quick look at it


278415467_296401455983761_681513156187377103_n.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
well i was just coming out of asda at about 5:45 tonight, and there was you walking in the door by the time me brain fucntioned and i turned around and trying to remember ya name it was to late(n)

the motor is looking better in the flesh like (y) had a quick look at it


278415467_296401455983761_681513156187377103_n.jpg
Hehe alloallo

I was just heading straight over to portract Lane for the usual Wednesday car meet

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Top