• Please only use these forums for blogs, they are not a discussion forum

PollyMobiles Rebuild

OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2021-08-30 Harrogate Car Show

went down to Harrogate with the CCS club for a classic car show. it was a pretty boring show with a slight drizzle

IMG_20210830_103938.jpg
IMG_20210830_093515.jpg
IMG_20210830_093532.jpg


after 3pm I popped back to the local karting track to watch some more exciting drift practice 😁

IMG_20210830_161502.jpg
IMG_20210830_160801.jpg
IMG_20210830_155550.jpg
IMG_20210830_155604.jpg
IMG_20210830_154625.jpg
IMG_20210830_154705.jpg
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
got some lugs ends for cleaning up the subwoofer power leads

IMG_20210831_204003.jpg


noticed my bonnet was waving at high speed and it was cos the latch upright had snapped :rolleyes:

IMG_20210903_180748.jpg
IMG_20210903_182532.jpg


a simple quick fix

IMG_20210903_184534.jpg


hehe just had to add an uncle roger reference here 😁:ROFLMAO:

IMG_20210903_193953.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
2021-09-04 Japfest Silverstone

3am with little to no sleep I drove 5hrs down to silverstone for the huge Japfest show

it was a great turnout of micras and the event was insanely huge to explore

IMG_20210904_094237.jpg
IMG_20210904_135811.jpg
IMG_20210904_085430.jpg


kassandra had lots of interest & giggles 😁

IMG_20210904_132836.jpg
IMG_20210904_085412.jpg

IMG_20210904_082258.jpg
IMG_20210904_085443.jpg
IMG_20210904_085452.jpg
IMG_20210904_085501.jpg
IMG_20210904_085517.jpg
IMG_20210904_085534.jpg
IMG_20210904_085549.jpg
IMG_20210904_085600.jpg
IMG_20210904_085610.jpg
IMG_20210904_131131.jpg
IMG_20210904_094217.jpg
IMG_20210904_100335.jpg
IMG_20210904_100357.jpg
IMG_20210904_100419.jpg
IMG_20210904_134720.jpg
IMG_20210904_134706.jpg
IMG_20210904_094536.jpg
IMG_20210904_094637.jpg
IMG_20210904_100040.jpg
IMG_20210904_100111.jpg
IMG_20210904_100600.jpg
IMG_20210904_134344.jpg
IMG_20210904_134520.jpg
IMG_20210904_134928.jpg
IMG_20210904_135002.jpg


after a long day I cruised home for another tiring 6hrs 😴 but managed 50mpg from a constant 60mph (y)
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
changing oil & filter after 7mths

IMG_20210905_153121.jpg


relatively quiet sunday car meet

IMG_20210905_182459.jpg
IMG_20210905_182510.jpg
IMG_20210905_182522.jpg
IMG_20210905_182534.jpg
IMG_20210905_182551.jpg
IMG_20210905_182609.jpg
IMG_20210905_182634.jpg


time to trim the excess subwoofer cables.

discovered the halfords 10awg CCA/copper cables are bout 1/2 the thickness of a 10awg lug end so even after crimping, it easily slides right off :rolleyes:

IMG_20210906_212034.jpg


ended up having to fold the cable & force twice the strands into the lug till the crimp holds

IMG_20210906_213531.jpg


little neater

IMG_20210906_215205.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
In the last few months I noticed the tyres seem to scrub against the arch more than usual.

Measuring the arch gap I found the new 6/5kg front/rear springs I fitted 1.5yrs ago has actually sagged down 10/15mm front/rear therefore reduced bump travel.
Raised it all back to an equal ride height, hope this reduces the rub.

The coilover covers doing a gr8 job keeping it clean.

IMG_20210916_185321.jpg
IMG_20210916_192035.jpg


the clutch pedal is slightly bent from the heavy loading and it's getting sticky more & more often, re-lubing the cable barely helps

IMG_20210916_183913.jpg


looks like the tiny ball bearing on the modified clutch pedal has totally collapsed under the years of stress, making it feel very sticky/binding 😬

IMG_20210916_213307.jpg
IMG_20210916_213319.jpg


Think I'll first repair the current clutch pedal with fresh roller bearings for now and then completely re-engineering a whole new stronger custom framed clutch pedal to fit in this space at a later date

IMG_20210916_214059.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
decided to machine this 18x49mm bushing from a spare alloy wheel nut to get the clutch pedal working again

IMG_20210917_210941.jpg
IMG_20210917_212726.jpg


replaced the battery ground cable ends with fresh crimped lugs and the cranking is noticeably stronger with less resistance. I just have the really old oxidised starter motor ground lead to replace.

IMG_20210918_130144.jpg
IMG_20210918_132419.jpg
IMG_20210918_133254.jpg
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Aluminium is not a very good bearing material Paul and it introduces the possibility of galvanic corrosion between the two dissimilar metals (aluminium and steel, one is anodic, the other cathodic) if it gets wet...... brass would be a far better option
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time for some underglow 😁
removed the scuttle panel & arch liner for routing the LED wiring

IMG_20210921_191332.jpg


wiped the slippery underseal off so the foam tape can stick to the sill

IMG_20210921_193432.jpg


bonded the LED strip to the sill edge with double sided foam tape and routed the wire up the wings, across the scuttle.
I'll soon add some clips to stop it peeling off too.

IMG_20210921_195750.jpg


looks nice & bright :cool:
just the bumpers & the bonnet to do next

IMG_20210921_211400.jpg
IMG_20210921_211544.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fitted the front LED strip and further secured to the bumper edge with simple paper clips :LOL:

IMG_20210923_210335.jpg


the thick waterproof strips create too much glare from a shallow angle

IMG_20210923_210355.jpg


so covering 1/2 the strip with electrical tape did the job 😎

IMG_20210924_194820.jpg
IMG_20210924_195418.jpg
IMG_20210924_195438.jpg


just the rear end left to do
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the 6pk815 alternator belt I brought in 2018 is getting slightly old & thought the tensioner pulley was sitting too far from the long belt..

so I ordered this shorter 6pk803 belt off ebay with long delay thinking it'll sit the tensioner within it's adjustment range but turned out to be wayy too short and couldn't even fit it on :rolleyes: soo I'm gonna have to order another 6pk815 instead

IMG_20211002_110120.jpg
IMG_20211002_124028.jpg


the glovebox lock snapped off, so I printed another one

IMG_20211002_123019.jpg
IMG_20211002_125559.jpg


the old rubber seal around the dizzy had swollen out of shape so I fitted a spare dizzy

IMG_20211003_133504.jpg


the airbag light on my dash (left) was accidentally blown so I brought a spare preface dash (right) to salvage the airbag light

IMG_20211003_144003.jpg
IMG_20211003_144027.jpg


notice on the bottom photo of the spare dash that the check engine light & fog light warning are missing :unsure: so I definately cant use this unit

IMG_20211003_144039 copy.jpg


shining light through, you can see the graphics & bulb holes are missing

IMG_20211003_144753.jpg
IMG_20211003_150240.jpg
IMG_20211003_150227.jpg


my old airbag light used two LED whereas the spare dash uses a combined bulb

IMG_20211003_145127.jpg


fitted the bulb to my old dash

IMG_20211003_145430.jpg


and now I have a working airbag light for her winter MOT

IMG_20211003_162710.jpg


for the subwoofer, I replaced the RCA cable that came from the cheaper Vibe CCA cable kit (left) with the blue RCA cable from the Stinger Autolead OFC RCA kit (right)

they both have exactly the same 0.8ohm resistance & sound quality so the difference is purely cosmetic 😎

IMG_20211003_153509.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Replacing Starter Ground Lead

The 28yr starter motor ground strap is getting pretty old & oxidised now which could affect cranking power

IMG_20211004_210458.jpg


I brought a battery cable from halfords for £5

IMG_20211004_210157.jpg
IMG_20211004_211513.jpg


but the starter motor uses m10 bolts whereas the new lead has a thin m8 bolt hole and no room to enlarge

IMG_20211004_211535.jpg


so I simply chopped the small end off and crimped it into a larger 0awg terminal ends I had spare and drilled it out to fit m10 bolts

IMG_20211004_211743.jpg
IMG_20211004_212820.jpg


that it soo much cleaner looking & performing :cool:

IMG_20211004_215120.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
got a 6pk815 belt from work

IMG_20211005_193252.jpg


The tie-rod ends are already worn loose cos I used to weld longer threads on the ends to reach the standard inner tie-rods, and the welding heat probably damaged the teflon lining.

So I brought some new XFRM12 x 1.25mm tie rod ends online (these look a lot beefier than what I used to buy) and I'll lengthen the inner tie-rods to reach them instead.

IMG_20211005_194426.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
during tonights car meet I replaced the alternator belt

IMG_20211006_172904.jpg


good thing I kept with the same length cos I was barely able to slip the new belt on. any shorter and it wouldn't fit at all.

IMG_20211006_175947.jpg


the old 2018 belt definately worn a deeper groove compared to the thick new one 😁

IMG_20211006_180024.jpg
IMG_20211006_183125.jpg
 

Craig

Unofficial Member (Gold)
Club Member
got a 6pk815 belt from work

View attachment 76408

The tie-rod ends are already worn loose cos I used to weld longer threads on the ends to reach the standard inner tie-rods, and the welding heat probably damaged the teflon lining.

So I brought some new XFRM12 x 1.25mm tie rod ends online (these look a lot beefier than what I used to buy) and I'll lengthen the inner tie-rods to reach them instead.

View attachment 76409

Is this related to the work you did to lower the outer end of the wishbones to raise your roll centre? Keep meaning to ask how that has stood up to the test of time?

Craig
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Is this related to the work you did to lower the outer end of the wishbones to raise your roll centre? Keep meaning to ask how that has stood up to the test of time?

Craig

yup, after extending the lower ball joint & lengthening the control arms, I use rose-joint tie-rod ends to relocate the point & correct bump-steer.

the spherical bearings generally last bout 1-2yrs of daily & trackday abuse till they wear out sloppy
 
Sup Paul

how about gear mechanism bushings? If I recall corretly you converted them to bearings? Is this still in use?

I'm asking because I've go to repair mines. Looks like I'll cut some bushes from PTFE
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this battery terminal sharing the clamp & connector with a single hard to access fastener has always been awquid

IMG_20211010_112605.jpg


machined a bolt into a stud adapter for the other end

IMG_20211010_113014.jpg
IMG_20211010_115039.jpg


so now one bolt handles the clamping whilst the other end has easy access & better contact for the power connections

IMG_20211010_120510.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I found the plastic mounts holding the bolts on the new headlights are already cracked :rolleyes:
(not help by the fact the poor copy-stamped front wings have the mounting holes 6mm too far back, which angles the unit by 2deg)
quite a weak design flaw

IMG_20211010_150710.jpg
IMG_20211010_153516.jpg


cut & drilled it out to 9mm to fit stronger rivnuts

IMG_20211010_154642.jpg
IMG_20211010_154910.jpg


few nuts to restore the spacing

IMG_20211010_155901.jpg
 
OP
OP
pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
checking the engine compression 20k & 2yrs since it was last rebuilt, it's dropped from 11bars to 9bars.
not sure if the gauge is inaccurate (will calibrate it soon) or if this engine is wearing out fast or if the valve clearances need rechecking

comp.jpg


the NGK BKR5E-11 plugs were also really worn out to 1.25mm gap after 2yrs 😬

IMG_20211009_123748.jpg
IMG_20211009_123812.jpg


work didn't have any NGK but they did have an equivelant Denso K16TT 🤔

IMG_20211011_181403.jpg


compared to the broad normal NGK tip, the Denso Twin Tip has a narrower dual petruding tips which perhaps concentrates the arc to a spot?
I also had to widen the gap to 1.1mm since it came with a 0.9mm gap.

we'll see how it performs & lasts over the months

IMG_20211011_181437.jpg
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
checking the engine compression 20k & 2yrs since it was last rebuilt, it's dropped from 11bars to 9bars.
not sure if the gauge is inaccurate (will calibrate it soon) or if this engine is wearing out fast or if the valve clearances need rechecking

View attachment 76449

the NGK BKR5E-11 plugs were also really worn out to 1.25mm gap after 2yrs 😬

View attachment 76445View attachment 76446

work didn't have any NGK but they did have an equivelant Denso K16TT 🤔

View attachment 76447

compared to the broad normal NGK tip, the Denso Twin Tip has a narrower dual petruding tips which perhaps concentrates the arc to a spot?
I also had to widen the gap to 1.1mm since it came with a 0.9mm gap.

we'll see how it performs & lasts over the months

View attachment 76448
Why are you using red wires for the negative feed from the battery Paul?
 
Top