That's the first 'cut and shut 'jack I've seen! (personally I would have made a 'tongued' joint where it is welded rather than a straight cut butt joint as it is a safety sensative item, a weld, no matter how good, is never as strong as the original single piece of metal....... )
Looks like it would have been an ideal opportunity to have the axle sand blasted and powder coated Paul, if only we weren't in lockdown......Removed the axle to assess the spring issue
View attachment 68507View attachment 68508
The new stiffer springs have this curved banana shape so they'll have to be fitted at a certain angle
View attachment 68510
Originally I thought about removing that spiral shape at the bottom of the axle cup by cutting & welding it all flat but that would take a lot of work & time.
Instead I figured the best fix is to utilise this spiral feature and chop the spring along the dotted line to remove the flat bottom and make it sit at the correct angle.
View attachment 68509View attachment 68511
Chopped the spring, cut the rubber sleeve to cusion it against the solid spiral floor and machined this steel inner collar to keep it located center
View attachment 68513
Trimmed the collar to follow the spiral floor
View attachment 68514
It'll be welded to the axle to keep the spring located and clear of the sides
View attachment 68515View attachment 68512View attachment 68516
the only 13amp ACDC rtec is well over £1k for everything, which is well beyond my budget (especially with an uncertain future) and welding Alu ain't exactly important.Trust me you won't regret getting a TIG, it's certainly worth getting an AC/DC machine.
I spent months researching machines before I finally settled on one from R Tec and it's great.
It's quite a steep learning curve ( it makes learning mig a complete breeze in comparison) and now with the whole lock down is a great time to get your time behind the helmet.
One thing I will say is don't bother with that twisted mig wire, the filler needs to be clean and rust free. By the time you use it there's going to be rust/dirt trapped in there.
I thought the same but once you have the ability to weld aluminium you wonder how the hell you managed without it.the only 13amp ACDC rtec is well over £1k for everything, which is well beyond my budget (especially with an uncertain future) and welding Alu ain't exactly important.
I've narrowed all my options down to the R-Tec TIG160PD-D.
it runs 13amp, digital controls and can get a soiled/scuffed discount unit for £500, plus a £120 pedal and various other accessaries.
the biggest issue currently is gas. I found a local HobbyWeld place selling 10L argon bottles rent-free for £65 but there's obviously no point buying a TIG yet if literally everything in the world is closed down right now
damn it, if only I brought all this stuff before the global shutdown, I'd be practicing with my new toy throughout the break
Indeed, spending extra few hundred quid for an ACDC machine will certainly offer much more versatility over a long term investment.I thought the same but once you have the ability to weld aluminium you wonder how the hell you managed without it.
It's certainly worth saving longer to get an AC capable machine.
It's a huge outlay of money and with things the way they are at the moment it's probably not the best time to buy.
I use hobby weld ( both argon and mig bottles) as I don't do anywhere near enough to have a boc account etc.
I'll be honest your first bottle will be a write off as you learn, but once you are set up they last a while. The small bottle is 10l liquid which is something like 1200l of gas.
Whichever way you go good luck with it and I look forward to seeing the first welds
Exactly DaveGlad to see you expanding the Omex capability.
There are plenty of tuners out there who only want to tune and therefore push a particular make of ECU because it's a personal preference. Sadly, as a result, it can result in them slating other brands just for the sake of it.
If an Omex was a PITA to tune, it wouldn't have taken Ed a mere 30mins to get mine up and running from a base map, driven to the local Shell to fill up and off to the dyno. It also wouldn't run flawlessly for years on my car at the power level we were at.
Honest advice, find a tuner who supports Omex and avoid someone who doesn't as you'll only get a bum streer.
so unless I'm welding thick gauge aluminium, I should be ok using a 16amp ACDC welder on the normal plug? that's good to know MattI have been running my welder for 10+ years on a standard 13a plug, it should really have a 16a plug on it. Only caused an issue once when I was playing with it running flat out, and it blew the 13a fuse. Swapped for a normal fuse and away again. Unless you are planning on lots of flat out welding it would be fine.
What a good idea don’t paint it black.It's useful painting suspension in a lighter colour, I spray all mine in silver. It brightens things up under the car when working on it, and makes it easier to spot cracks. I found one once like this on the rear beam, doubt I would have seen it if had been painted black.
Same here, both my welders should have a 16A plug/supply but they have been running 13A fuses. I've had the occasional fuse pop but it's a quick fix and back to it. It's rare I find myself needing to weld at max ampsI have been running my welder for 10+ years on a standard 13a plug, it should really have a 16a plug on it. Only caused an issue once when I was playing with it running flat out, and it blew the 13a fuse. Swapped for a normal fuse and away again. Unless you are planning on lots of flat out welding it would be fine.
That was what I was thinking, the original supports extended quite a long way , vertically up the body, distributing the load...... Paul's very localised wedge shaped supports for the round plates do not look to be doing the same job.......?
Mainly on about the mount it's self ,as the orignal had 3 points of contact ,plus a large surface area cone , tho only afew spot welds were actually really strong ,That was what I was thinking, the original supports extended quite a long way , vertically up the body, distributing the load...... Paul's very localised wedge shaped supports for the round plates do not look to be doing the same job.......?
I still feel you need to spread the load wider, you have a very concentrated load on a very small area of the chassis rail and directly above it..... The original spring plate and support above it, spreads the load over an area three or four times wider than you are achieving....good points above, I found some longer pipe of the same diameter and made it go up the chassis beam and a bit of the arch well
View attachment 68725
welded the base mount
View attachment 68727View attachment 68726
and then the vertical supports
View attachment 68728View attachment 68729