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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the last thing to mod at the rear end is to mount the exhaust silencer on rubber mounts to stop it rattling cos it was previously bolted solidly to the chassis beam which made it rattle

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I marked in white where the exhaust CoG is to locate one of the mounts to keep it balanced

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I wasn't a fan of the traditional exhaust rubber hangers cos they're too floppy and move too much.
Decided to get these solid bolt-on Bobbin-type rubber mounts in halfords, meant for rover mini's.

bobbin.jpg


some ppl use them to support the exhaust under shearing or tension load but that'll stress & shorten the lifespan prematurely.
the best way is to keep them under compression, which means I'll have to fabricate a frame to hang the silencer & rest down on the bobbins.

started with these two brackets using the only stainless bar I have available.

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welded the lower bracket under the chassis beam and installed the new frame & bobbins

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Using the previous mount to help keep the silencer perfectly positioned/aligned to the bumper while I tack weld this new frame in place.
but afterwards I realised the two different vertical & lateral mounts were actually locking each other in place, DOH! :rolleyes:

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impossible to cut the old mount off with my bulky grinder or dremel, so I slowly hacksawed it off ๐Ÿ˜„

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welded it all up

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I've essentially created a carry handle for the exhaust lol ๐Ÿ˜‚

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fits much better and now cusioned on rubber mounts with minimal movement ๐Ÿ˜Ž
I'd like to add a 3rd lateral supporting bobbin to stop it swaying sideways but I can always add that later on

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now I can finish reassembling the rear suspension
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
undersealed the rear end

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wirebrushed & painted the suspension bits

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the OEM bolts feature this 1mm thinner shank so that the whole length of the bolt doesn't seize inside the steel bush insert.
the spare bolts I used on the left didn't have this feature

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so I machined them with the 11mm diameter feature

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rear suspension is now overhauled, assembled & ready to install ๐Ÿ˜Ž ๐Ÿ˜Š

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this morning I was sent some spare cg13 pistons I brought from Sir Chris, incase I crack a few ringlands in the future :p

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spent a few hours cleaning & machining the length of each bolt so that there's no exposed threads to rust and seize/snap the next time I wanna take em out. (close to naming each one too lol)
was looking forward to bolting up the axle but then realised the whiteline lower arm PU bushes was very sticky and needs regreasing, so off it comes again :rolleyes:

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pressed the dried steel bush insert out, machined smooth, regreased and reinstalled the 2nd time

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axle is finally bolted on, phew โ˜บ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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accessing the spring adjusters is soo much easier now ๐Ÿ‘Œ

notice there's 20mm more threads available so it could potentially drop it even lower, but the stiff shorter spring is currently already fully relaxed so one day I'd have to reduce the dampers travel by either remounting it lower on the axle or fit droop limiters

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
finished assembling the brakes, pan hard, spring covers, drop links and rear bumper

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yay it's such a relief to drop her back on all 4's after 2 months of hard work stuck on axle stands during the lockdown ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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she was absolutely filthy with rusty grinding dust outside & inside ๐Ÿ˜ท

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gave her a much needed wash, much better ๐Ÿ˜

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wow ๐Ÿ˜ฎ would be a dream to have it that preserved ๐Ÿ˜Ž good as new.
Wow indeed!

Golf restored to OEM as new (show) standard & picture 17 of 20 is remarkable for fanatical attention to detail that is beyond my comprehension & โ€œbangernomicsโ€ cost reasoning when applied to a 31 year old runabout with an apparent 132K on the clock. :confused:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to repaint this rusty strut brace

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better ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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setting up the corner balancing scales

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discovering a few big issues with my balancing setup:
-these scales are limited to 300kg and with a full tank the front right corner is exceeding it,
-the stiffer spring rates are alot more sensitive to the slightest travel, so 1mm may throw the scales off by few kg,
-all the dampers have this inconsistant friction / binding, due to the seals & pistons, which again throws the sensitive scales wayy-off. (the rear dampers could be disconnected but the front struts can't and they have the highest friction)

all this makes the tool pretty useless :rolleyes:๐Ÿ™

anyway, the only readings I managed to get is this. trying to correct the balance with very inconsistant scales was infuriating and gave up.

Screenshot_20200423_221214_com.jpg


corner balancing ain't essential at this point anyway cos tbh it looks like trackdays or shows ain't gonna happen for a longg time during this global crisis / shutdown ๐Ÿ˜ข๐Ÿ˜ญ
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the old alternator has been struggling to fully charge the battery up, only reaching 13.4v so the next morning only has 12v

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replaced it with a spare which reaches 13.7v

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brought a furry wind sock for the outside mic and placed it within the bumper near the backbox which seems to work in capturing the exhaust noise

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went for a test drive on this gorgeous day and wow she feels really good & fun ๐Ÿ˜

no more rattles in the back. the new tyre & suspension setup feels soo responsive, minimal bodyroll and grips really hard whilst whizzing round tight bends with no sign of under or over steer, probably due to the warmer temps.

mixing the stereo cabin mic with the new exhaust mic sounds great ๐Ÿ˜Ž


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even after greasing, the swaybar polyurethane bush still tends to dry out & bind/stick to the bar which affects the roll-stiffness and made the old bracket on the axle crack from the twisting stress

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so I wirebrushed the paint off to loosen it slightly and used dry graphite powder inside the bush rather than goopy grease which tends to be squeezed out under pressure. seems to have worked and there's abit less friction now

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catch cans manage to grab 200ml of clear water/fuel vapour from the crankcase after 1500miles since february

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the tigersealed gauge pods starting to peel off after years of flexing

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fitted some normal covers for now while I'm fixing em

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ever since I applied red rubber grease to the electric window rubber seals it's barely slides even worse than before cos it dries into a very sticky thin goop :rolleyes:

so I removed & wiped the rubber grooves clean and applied dry graphite powder instead. slides soo much more effortlessly (y)

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I always thought the throttle cable running over the engine cover looked abit of an eye sore, it rubs against the painted cover and note how the little printed cable mount for bolting the cable onto the rocker cover sits off-set to the throttle body bracket

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the normal cable bracket feeds to the front and over the rocker cover

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took apart the pulley

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drilled the hole round so I can reposition this pulley on the shaft

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marking, chopping & welding the bracket onto it's new vertical position

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so now the cable sits vertical going from fully closed to WOT

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with the cable exiting at the back I can reroute it like this away from the rocker cover

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soo much cleaner & neater :cool:

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rocker cover really needs respraying next ๐Ÿ˜
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Looks nicer Paul but you have gone from one fairly smooth single 'C' bend in the cable to a convoluted 'S', with much tighter bends, something that anyone designing a bowden cable run tries to avoid, more friction and inevitably more likelihood of the cable becoming 'sticky' in the long term.........
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Looks nicer Paul but you have gone from one fairly smooth single 'C' bend in the cable to a convoluted 'S', with much tighter bends, something that anyone designing a bowden cable run tries to avoid, more friction and inevitably more likelihood of the cable becoming 'sticky' in the long term.........
It could've gone straight over the TB/fuel rail to reduce the bend but I'd prefer to route it clear out the way of everything for better access & appearance.

The S bend ain't that bad. It's bout as tight as some bicycle brake cables and those still work fine with minimal friction.

As for friction, I lubed the cable and there's very very little friction.
I doubt it'll often get as sticky or worn cos it's just light-duty (compared to my very heavily loaded clutch cable) but even if it does stick, it's very simple to just remove & lube the cable annually or just replace it with another bicycle cable.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
It could've gone straight over the TB/fuel rail to reduce the bend but I'd prefer to route it clear out the way of everything for better access & appearance.

The S bend ain't that bad. It's bout as tight as some bicycle brake cables and those still work fine with minimal friction.

As for friction, I lubed the cable and there's very very little friction.
I doubt it'll often get as sticky or worn cos it's just light-duty (compared to my very heavily loaded clutch cable) but even if it does stick, it's very simple to just remove & lube the cable annually or just replace it with another bicycle cable.
A brake cable on a bike, and it does not get the degree of use that an accelerator cable on a car does, and does not have to be as free as an accelerator cable, which to give smooth operation, possibly thousands of times a day, has to be really free. I'm sorry Paul this time you have got it wrong. The Nissan engineer that determined the original route for the cable got it right.......A classic case of fashion over form, the aesthetically 'prettiest' solution isn't always the correct answer.:(
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
A brake cable on a bike, and it does not get the degree of use that an accelerator cable on a car does, and does not have to be as free as an accelerator cable, which to give smooth operation, possibly thousands of times a day, has to be really free. I'm sorry Paul this time you have got it wrong. The Nissan engineer that determined the original route for the cable got it right.......A classic case of fashion over form, the aesthetically 'prettiest' solution isn't always the correct answer.:(
I disagree. a bicycle brake cable experiences a lot more tension & strain squeezing the pads hard against the rim during heavy braking compared to a throttle cable which is just moving a lightly spring loaded flap.

the original route maybe good for reliability etc but I have different needs so I modify it while maintaining function.

It ain't bent ridiculously tight, it's well lubed and it still slides very easily & smoothly whether it's with the pedal or my own fingers. It works & does what I want at end of the day.

Only way to discover what's really right or wrong is by trial & error, by doing it, by R&D.
your standards & criterias are very different to mine.
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
I disagree. a bicycle brake cable experiences a lot more tension & strain squeezing the pads hard against the rim during heavy braking compared to a throttle cable which is just moving a lightly spring loaded flap.

the original route maybe good for reliability etc but I have different needs so I modify it while maintaining function.

It ain't bent ridiculously tight, it's well lubed and it still slides very easily & smoothly whether it's with the pedal or my own fingers. It works & does what I want at end of the day.

Only way to discover what's really right or wrong is by trial & error, by doing it, by R&D.
your standards & criterias are very different to mine.
As they say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, it's not always necessary to try to re-design the wheel. It's not the matter of 'moving a lightly spring loaded flap' but more the ability of said flap's springing having the ability to close again against the added friction of the cable.......NOT a 'fail safe' situation.
My 'standards and criteria' are based on over 50 years of experience, in industry, designing mechanisms in production line machinery, both in the lamp making and automotive fastener industries, where things have to move fast, consistently and for a very high number of operations.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
As they say the proof of the pudding is in the eating, it's not always necessary to try to re-design the wheel. It's not the matter of 'moving a lightly spring loaded flap' but more the ability of said flap's springing having the ability to close again against the added friction of the cable.......NOT a 'fail safe' situation.
My 'standards and criteria' are based on over 50 years of experience, in industry, designing mechanisms in production line machinery, both in the lamp making and automotive fastener industries, where things have to move fast, consistently and for a very high number of operations.
Mmm pudding ๐Ÿคค I'll see how it goes. this ain't reinventing the wheel, it's reconfiguring it to a different spec. the spring has more than enough tension to return closed 'provided' the cable mechanism is regularly maintained (which is easy to service on mine). if at any point it begins to show signs of binding at all, it's simple to relax/reroute it another way.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
sprayed the A pillars black ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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with the throttle cable sorted out the way, it's time to sort out the tatty faded engine cover.
rather than remove, strip, prep & respray the current cover, I have a spare cover in the garage I could clean & respray from scratch instead

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gave it a good soak, scrub & wirebrush in boiling hot Persil

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after a blast with the jet wash soaking me everywhere ๐Ÿ’ฆ it turned out nice & clean

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wirebrushed the oxide off every nook cranny

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and resprayed ๐Ÿ’…๐Ÿ’„

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Cable running over the rocker has always annoyed me, just never enough to think about moving it...

Can't imagine it being a problem, if the pedal doesn't feel drastically different I'd call it fine!

@John_D
I've yet to see you post something good about the work Paul's done yet, on his own car... One day maybe

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Cable running over the rocker has always annoyed me, just never enough to think about moving it...

Can't imagine it being a problem, if the pedal doesn't feel drastically different I'd call it fine!

@John_D
I've yet to see you post something good about the work Paul's done yet, on his own car... One day maybe

Sent from my CLT-L09 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
I have posted many 'likes' for Paul's work on his car, but I do comment, occasionally, on some things negatively, when it becomes obvious that Paul has had no formal experience on metallurgy and mechanical engineering. The vast majority of improvements/developments that Paul has done to his car are a credit to him and his persistence to get things better. The only person that doesn't make the occasional mistake is someone that does nothing.....
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I have posted many 'likes' for Paul's work on his car, but I do comment, occasionally, on some things negatively, when it becomes obvious that Paul has had no formal experience on metallurgy and mechanical engineering. The vast majority of improvements/developments that Paul has done to his car are a credit to him and his persistence to get things better. The only person that doesn't make the occasional mistake is someone that does nothing.....
aye, constructive criticism.
I only know soo much to achieve certain tasks, doing my best at making continuous incremental improvements to get closer to the ideal goal.
sometimes I may miss something that another one spots and so it helps to share those thoughts/concerns so I can make better decisions & progress forward.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
sanded the letters down

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discovered I can use dettol wipes to clean dirt/dust off the fresh base coat like a tack cloth in preparation for the top coat

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laquered and looking nice ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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removed the old cover. cams showing signs of oil cooking/varnishing on the lower stress/non-touching side of the lobes?

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fitted the new cam cover and what a huge difference, the red just 'pops' out from the matt black engine bay :love::cool:๐Ÿ‘Œ gorgeous

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
sanded the letters down

View attachment 69257

discovered I can use dettol wipes to clean dirt/dust off the fresh base coat like a tack cloth in preparation for the top coat

View attachment 69258

laquered and looking nice ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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removed the old cover. cams showing signs of oil cooking/varnishing on the lower stress/non-touching side of the lobes?

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fitted the new cam cover and what a huge difference, the red just 'pops' out from the matt black engine bay :love::cool:๐Ÿ‘Œ gorgeous

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So much nicer Paul than the K12 cam cover, covered up with the damned great plastic airbox/plenum, looks great:cool:.
 
sanded the letters down

View attachment 69257

discovered I can use dettol wipes to clean dirt/dust off the fresh base coat like a tack cloth in preparation for the top coat

View attachment 69258

laquered and looking nice

View attachment 69261View attachment 69262

removed the old cover. cams showing signs of oil cooking/varnishing on the lower stress/non-touching side of the lobes?

View attachment 69259View attachment 69260

fitted the new cam cover and what a huge difference, the red just 'pops' out from the matt black engine bay :love::cool: gorgeous

View attachment 69263View attachment 69264
That's a great tip to use the dettol wipes as a tack cloth,I'm often wondering what I should be using.Will give that a try some time might have to use another brand.
Great discovery.

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ever since I moved this lathe rpm disc (cos I used one of the threaded rings for holding the manual hand crank) the sensor was never used

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so I printed this quick mount

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to position the sensor correctly and now I have an rpm readout

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time to wet & dry sand the grill in the sun. interesting to see it was originally from a blue micra but resprayed green twice

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primered & painted with only limited amounts I have remaining. still a huge gaping crack I cba to bodyfill but at least it's the right colour now

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friend mentioned to me bout a brake bleeder that uses tyre pressure pressurise the reservoir & continuously push fluid through (rather than operating the pedal) while you bleed each corner.

I modelled this cap to seal against the reservoir opening and connect to the tyres with a hose

cap.jpg

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ooh it's nice when things fit perfectly :cool:

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John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
ever since I moved this lathe rpm disc (cos I used one of the threaded rings for holding the manual hand crank) the sensor was never used

View attachment 69344

so I printed this quick mount

View attachment 69343

to position the sensor correctly and now I have an rpm readout

View attachment 69345

time to wet & dry sand the grill in the sun. interesting to see it was originally from a blue micra but resprayed green twice

View attachment 69346View attachment 69347

primered & painted with only limited amounts I have remaining. still a huge gaping crack I cba to bodyfill but at least it's the right colour now

View attachment 69348View attachment 69349

friend mentioned to me bout a brake bleeder that uses tyre pressure pressurise the reservoir & continuously push fluid through (rather than operating the pedal) while you bleed each corner.

I modelled this cap to seal against the reservoir opening and connect to the tyres with a hose

View attachment 69352
View attachment 69350

ooh it's nice when things fit perfectly :cool:

View attachment 69351
The secret with these Paul is to use a spare tyre with very low pressure in it, say 10/15psi or so. Much higher and you will empty the reservoir rather quickly..... ;)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
fitted the resprayed front grill along with the badge and she looks back to normal again :D

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went for a drive to buy some stuff.


Wow I'm forgetting how she sounds & feels after only getting to drive kassandra very infrequently every 2 weeks :oops:

Her exhaust seems a lot quieter, there's no more rattles, the ride is plush but firms up when compressed, and these tyres have a lot of grip on the warm floor. Back of my mind is thinking this is pretty fast, will my suspension hold? It'll take time to relearn & regain trust in her new setup before I can push hard.

Broke the first bleeder cap as I pressed a 6mm tube into the slightly smaller hole, so I reprinted it with an integrated 7mm nozzle for the hose

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got this shraeder bend adapter in halfords to join the hose to the tyre valve

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hooked up the front 40psi tyre to the reservoir as a 1st test

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can see the pressure pushing up the cap tightly and the struggling single o-ring is hissing slightly, so it ain't 100% airtight yet, but it's certainly effective cos it applies the brakes as though I'm lightly touching the pedal ๐Ÿ˜ƒ

I'll refine the cap with a better seal and use a spare tyre inflated to a softer 15psi instead ๐Ÿ˜Š
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
fitted the resprayed front grill along with the badge and she looks back to normal again :D

View attachment 69362View attachment 69363View attachment 69365View attachment 69364

went for a drive to buy some stuff.


Wow I'm forgetting how she sounds & feels after only getting to drive kassandra very infrequently every 2 weeks :oops:

Her exhaust seems a lot quieter, there's no more rattles, the ride is plush but firms up when compressed, and these tyres have a lot of grip on the warm floor. Back of my mind is thinking this is pretty fast, will my suspension hold? It'll take time to relearn & regain trust in her new setup before I can push hard.

Broke the first bleeder cap as I pressed a 6mm tube into the slightly smaller hole, so I reprinted it with an integrated 7mm nozzle for the hose

View attachment 69367

got this shraeder bend adapter in halfords to join the hose to the tyre valve

View attachment 69366
View attachment 69369

hooked up the front 40psi tyre to the reservoir as a 1st test

View attachment 69368

can see the pressure pushing up the cap tightly and the struggling single o-ring is hissing slightly, so it ain't 100% airtight yet, but it's certainly effective cos it applies the brakes as though I'm lightly touching the pedal ๐Ÿ˜ƒ

I'll refine the cap with a better seal and use a spare tyre inflated to a softer 15psi instead ๐Ÿ˜Š
The seal will probably hold 15 psi Paul, you were pushing your luck with 40 psi, not sure the reservoir to main cylinder seal would be very happy with that either, probably a good thing that your cap seal was not holding up....... ;)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
The seal will probably hold 15 psi Paul, you were pushing your luck with 40 psi, not sure the reservoir to main cylinder seal would be very happy with that either, probably a good thing that your cap seal was not holding up....... ;)
hehe indeed
 
Hey pollyp, I've been following this thread for ages, ever since 2012'ish. The attention to detail and engineering that goes into this car is pure next level. If everyone even gave half of what you are doing, we would have a much more sustainable future. Truly inspiring!

I've owned a few K11s, B13s, and now moved on to the Nissan Leaf. It's a totally different world, have you ever thought about an electrical future for Kassandra?

Here's my buildthread on the ZE0 if you want to take a peek :) : http://www.japtoys.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3613
 

John_D

Club Member
Radio Code Guru
Hey pollyp, I've been following this thread for ages, ever since 2012'ish. The attention to detail and engineering that goes into this car is pure next level. If everyone even gave half of what you are doing, we would have a much more sustainable future. Truly inspiring!

I've owned a few K11s, B13s, and now moved on to the Nissan Leaf. It's a totally different world, have you ever thought about an electrical future for Kassandra?

Here's my buildthread on the ZE0 if you want to take a peek :) : http://www.japtoys.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3613
Very interesting read:cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Hey pollyp, I've been following this thread for ages, ever since 2012'ish. The attention to detail and engineering that goes into this car is pure next level. If everyone even gave half of what you are doing, we would have a much more sustainable future. Truly inspiring!

I've owned a few K11s, B13s, and now moved on to the Nissan Leaf. It's a totally different world, have you ever thought about an electrical future for Kassandra?

Here's my buildthread on the ZE0 if you want to take a peek :) : http://www.japtoys.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=3613
Hi, thanks for the compliments Dala ๐Ÿ˜‰
she's been a labour of love and sharing my journey here may hopefully help out ppl who comes across the same challenges and inspire them to pursue their curiosity, making things better.

not thought about going electric yet after having invested all of myself into kassandra. I simply don't have any space in the house or especially finance to consider another project.

that's a fascinating build of yours. love the detail & passion u put into it (y)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
time to freshen up & paint the calipers

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begin stripping it down

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pistons are still nice & shiny smooth

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rear pistons all good, the self-adjusting thread in the middle can still rotate freely, and the handbrake mechanism works fine

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overall they're mechanically fine. just needs a good wirebrush & paint
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ordered some LK0 base coat & laquer from NuAgane to see if it's a better match to the factory paint

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I didn't have any right size spare copper washers for the banjo bolts so to freshen up the old washers, I sanded em flat with wet dry on glass.

not to self: don't try sanding thin washers with just fingers cos silly me eventually sanded through my fingerprint till it was bleeding! ๐Ÿ˜ฌ๐Ÿ˜ซ ouch
it's only afterwards I found that I could sand the washers by using an M10 nut with the threaded shaft in the middle keeping the washer located. learning from painful mistakes ey? ๐Ÿคช

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fresh brakes fitted :cool:

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bleeding the whole system with the new tool, works gr8 with 20psi (y)

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beautiful ๐Ÿ˜

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I recently had to replace the alternator cos the old one's been struggling to reach 13.3v and charging the battery.
tonight I was checking all 3 of em, they all had the same coil resistances, same good condition sliding contacts but I noticed that the removable rectifier/contact slider is simply connected to the circuit by this spring fork

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could it be that this fork and the rectifier end simply oxidises & gets dirty over time which degrades the connection and reduce the voltage output? that's another silly design exposed to the elements.

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I'll clean em all up & see if it improves the output reading
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
cleaning the alternator contacts made no difference.

multimeter still reads:
alternator = 14v
original battery +ve terminal = 13.8v
extended battery cable under passenger seat = 13.5v
nissan datascan = 13.3v

seems like there's a lot of resistance between the alternator, loom and battery.
unbolted the battery extension from the original +ve end and wirebrushed it all to bare metal.
looks like they all had some oxide buildup.

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see if that makes a difference
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
stripped down the 3d printer to fix a few issues.
- the top mounted spool holder pulls the filament over a long distance down to the extruder motor.
this puts too much strain on the plastic filament because it naturally wants to spring back into a coil due to the way they're made & stored.
a few hours after finishing each print, heat from the hot end would soak afew cm up the filament making it more brittle until the bending forces snap the filament making it tangle within the spool.
- the original frame sat too low so I had to roughly lift it up so the bearings for the printer bed clears the desk.

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I was gonna just attach some feets to the frame to lift it higher but then thought lets fit some adjustable feets with nuts & bolts too, so I can level it to the uneven desktop & stop it wobbling.

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also welded the spool mount to the front so that the filament doesn't have to straighten out as much & over a shorter distance to the extruder

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installed all the sliders & wiring

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all assembled & working again. hopefully overnight the filament won't snap again while I'm sleeping

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Couple of questions

Whys the side panel off your pc
What is that cpu cooler, I know its not but it makes me think of the Thermaltake turbine ones.

Also cool k11 build (I guess I need to mention that in a thread about the car lul)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Couple of questions

Whys the side panel off your pc
What is that cpu cooler, I know its not but it makes me think of the Thermaltake turbine ones.

Also cool k11 build (I guess I need to mention that in a thread about the car lul)
Runs a lot cooler & quieter with no covers and all fans dialled to near silent.

Its a zalman CNPS9900 cooler.

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