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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

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simon with the silver R33 brought some spare oem R33 headlights with replace his current odd mascara looking lights but it's been damaged during postage and wondered if I could fix the smashed bits

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the drivers side was mostly ok but had a small crack in the lens cover and the indicator reflector was melted and fitted with an LED bulb so will need replacing

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the passenger side had a badly smashed back end

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the 90deg adjuster was sticky so I cleaned that up

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so the plan is for simon to remove his current headlights, we heat up & remove the lens from both sets, then we reassemble it with all the best bits
 
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pollyp

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there's a faint knock every time I use the wipers and checked it's wasn't the wiper blades

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looking inside I found the linkage was hitting the side of this rusted panel, so a few hammer blows solved that ๐Ÿ˜

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I also get alot of smelly clutch dust coming through the vents due to the raised bonnet & exposed bell housing

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so I mocked up this card shroud to cover the air inlet and it worked, just need to make it properly next time

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pollyp

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the night before a car show, I cleaned n polished the car but then got carried away with improving the air filter mount & fuel lines.
I removed the carbon canistor to allow more space to mount the intake pipe

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roughly & quickly welded this bracket to where the carbon canistor was to support the pipe

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abit straighter to the straut brace & less rattling

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pollyp

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2020-01-19 Wynyard Hall Cars & Coffee

met luke at the nearby services for breakfast

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it was a long queue going into a cold crispy & muddy wynyard hall

soo many ppl got stuck on this loose muddy field

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parked, cleaned & wondered around

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a cool sp1 lotus esprit from the spy who loved me :cool:

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this steampunk singer sport made by an inventor was stunning. more you look at it, more details you see ๐Ÿ˜Ž๐Ÿ‘Œ

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pollyp

pollyp

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the grass was now all soggy & muddy after the sun has melted the morning frost so the cars have sunk abit and more ppl were spinning muddy wheels getting out compared to this morning. thankfully my car was light and parked close to the tarmac.
so much for cleaning the cars beforehand ๐Ÿ™„

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pollyp

pollyp

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Luke gave me these spare blue H4 bulbs found in the garage

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comparing my current Halfords Extreme Brilliance (left) to the spare blue bulbs (right)

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the extreme brilliance (left) has the normal amber temperature but has a brighter broad beam whereas the blue bulbs (right) is only slightly cooler but abit dull and less broad

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went for a drive and eww the blue bulbs is ridiculously dim/bleak/underpowered and the colour just tints the scenery all flat so I struggle to distinguish road features. absolute rubbish.

I even tried sanding the blue coating off to see if it was absorbing the light power and I found the brightness of the bare filament itself was actually alot weaker than the extreme brilliance, explains why it's soo dim.

in the bin they go ๐Ÿ™„ ๐Ÿ˜„

checking the brake pads, the OEM GTIR front pads are wearing roughly the same rate as the black diamonds under normal street driving

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the rear OEM pads are now worn out and need replacing soon. the inner pads are wearing faster than the outer pads, maybe the piston or handbrake mechanism is sticking slightly?

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welded this power steering hose/HP line block to the strut brace to stop it rattling

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engine compression is at an equal 11bars

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pollyp

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sunday car meet. most of the rattle's gone after fixing that PAS mount but then another rattle appeared from deep in the dashboard/bulkhead :rolleyes:

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the rattle was soo annoying, resonating at 1.4k & 2.4k rpm sounding like a loose screw/washer in the dash and not from the engine bay.

I stopped by a quiet roadside and spent hours holding the revs at 1.4k, stripping the dash apart looking everywhere for that sound but couldn't locate or reach it cos it's deep in the bulkhead around the heat matrix.

but then on the way home I turned the heater knobs and JEEZUZ behold it was the Friggin heater diverter vanes in the center dashboard which was rattling around when it's set to Face & Feet ๐Ÿ˜ซ๐Ÿคฌ๐Ÿ™„
turned it to Windscreen or Face and it's quiet now phew! ๐Ÿ˜‡
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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leaving home for work this morning I soon noticed the power steering getting abit heavier and then a faint whine of the PAS pump and a slight smell, ohohhh

pulled over to check around and saw the PAS cooler hose that I fitted as a quick fix has slipped off and drained all the fluids ๐Ÿคฌ๐Ÿ™„
so I had to nurse it home & take the other car

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home after work, I removed the front end, found my brake flaring kit has the right size for flaring the15mm pipes, and cleaned up all the oily mess

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also used some OEM rubber hose from a TB to form the U bend. the orange garden hose thing was too rigid and didn't clamp well

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reassembled, bled it with new ATF fluid and yea it's all working fine again ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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pollyp

pollyp

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this morning kassandra refused to indicate left :unsure: the hazards work and can indicate right.
checking the storks after work, I found the connector wasn't fully plugged in ๐Ÿคฆโ€โ™‚๏ธ๐Ÿ˜„

brought a new set of rear discs & pads from work for ยฃ58

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removed the crusty old brakes

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discs had a deep groove worn from 7mm down to 6.44mm

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new pads feature a wear groove

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installed and went for a blast around town

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dunno if it's the included shims or if there's air in the system after I had to bleed it (piston dust boot slipped out) or if these pads need a few hundred miles to bed/bite but it feels a tiny bit spongy near the bite-point and doesn't brake as hard initially.
pushing the pedal further would obviously feel firmer & brake hard as normal.
guess it needs more miles.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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the sidelights had this awful amber colour compared to my headlights and LED lighting so I got these LED 501 bulbs for ยฃ6.50

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and what a difference between the amber normal bulbs (left) vs LED bulbs (right)

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looks all gr8 now ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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pollyp

pollyp

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the standard black paint on the manifold has burnt off leaving a white ash

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so I wirebrushed it off and resprayed it with screwfix VHT paint rated for 600deg. after curing & heating it up, it's now staying intact although a tiny section has peeled off perhaps it didn't bond properly

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time to get rid of the 4yr old toyo T1Rs which are all worn, hard, no traction and really noisy

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got a local garage to fit my new Falken ZE310s.
one tiny annoyance is they didn't align the yellow dots to the tyre valves and one of the wheel weights is double stacked ๐Ÿ™„

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painted em

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noting that these are fresh tyres so they'll have a slippery release agent on the treads for afew miles.

Initial impression of going from really old worn T1Rs into fresh ZE310s:
- a lot quieter, commuting down the carriageway the Toyos had a deafening ROAR whereas these new thicker Falkens are half as loud ๐Ÿ˜Ž
- sharp steering response
- good turn-in cornering grip but slippery & nervous under sustained fast corners due to the release agent. improving as I drive more miles.
I'll need to reconfigure what pressure to run these in future cos I'm currently at 3bars/42psi which will affect all these factors above.

want to improve the rough air intake mount so I decided to weld this rigid square tube frame to a T-clamp which then holds onto the intake pipe.
the T-clamp was bigger than the alloy tube but a silicone coupler was just the right size, plus it helps dampen vibrations too

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the microphones on the action camera and smart phone ain't good so I tried out this dedicated Sony ICD-SX733 voice recorder.
it has internal stereo mic pickups but it wasn't good, lacked clarity, lots of reverb and caught alot of vibrations, bumps, etc

didn't have a microphone available but then I discovered I could use little earphones as microphones. tested em on the roof, dash and taped to the seat and although they function, it's really quiet & lacks clarity, muddy. the sound quality is similar to the cheap encased goodmans action camera whereas my Drift X170 had a better crisp sound quality.

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so I brought this recommended Sony ECM-CS10 stereo microphone online, coming from japan for ยฃ39

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another cold night at tdays car meet

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pollyp

pollyp

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Comparing Toyo T1R vs Falken ZE310 Contact Patch

To see how the pressure & construction affects the contact patch between the two tyres, I sat the wheels on a flat slab and measured the contact size with 2 sheets of paper under various pressures

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the lateral tread doesn't change much with pressure

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but the longitudinal length of the tread varies alot between the two tyres throughout the range.
the tread begins to flatten out below 2 bars

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the T1R is a softer construction and shows a much larger contact patch per PSI/Bar than the Falkens.

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I used to run the T1R at 3 bars in order to provide enough sidewall stiffness.

If I run these Falkens at 3 bars, the steering response is alot sharper than the Toyos but reduces lateral grip.
I now run them at the factory recommended 2.5/2.2 bars which gives roughly the same contact patch as my old Toyo, much better lateral grip and a bit quieter but the dead-centre steering response is now similar to Toyos.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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my old Halfords "100% brighter" H4 bulbs are abit poor in the pitch black country roads so a few ppl recommended getting these Osram Night Breaker Laser (ยฃ20 on ebay, half the price of halfrauds)

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the halfords have a blue half-tinted dipped beam and clear high-beam whereas the Osrams are the opposite

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conparing the halfords bulb in Left vs osram bulbs in Right.
they both have exactly the same intensity amber dipped beam

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but on high-beam you can see the Osram has a white long-distance center core surrounded by a darker-cooler blue on the outside

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here's with both osram bulbs Dipped & Full beams

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testing it in the dark country roads, we see the broad & bright amber dipped beam lighting up the nearby road

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when going full beam, the clear inner core shines far into the horizon where the eye is focusing meanwhile the blue outer tint slightly darkens the nearby ground so the peripheral view is not as glaring or distracting.

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overall it works great ๐Ÿ˜Ž ๐Ÿ‘Œ
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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woops I forgotten to empty my catch can for the past 6 months and it's fully brimmed ๐Ÿ˜ฌ๐Ÿ˜

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stuck this shield on the bonnet to stop clutch dust getting into the cabin intake

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Max Plester has a pair of pre-face wings for free and mine are getting pretty rotten nowadays so I said I'll come collect em.
although he's 4.5hrs away down Newbury and there's gonna be a bad storm on sunday ๐Ÿ˜ฌ

in preparation for the long haul, since micras don't have cruise control, I made this simple crude hand control so that when my right or left leg is tired of pressing the throttle & cramping, I use my right hand instead.

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pollyp

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driving down to Newbury tday while storm Ciara hit the UK.
struggling through all that rain & spray & gale force head wind, kassandra was instantly filthy and wasn't happy.

she struggled to accelerate and her AFR was irratic, sometimes leaning out during high load, sometimes just reading 9-10afr.

there was also an annoying loud rattle for afew secs whenever I drive through some deep puddles. tday the rattle got worse so I checked it over and turns out to be a loose nut from where I bolted the exhaust silencer directly onto the chassis. simply tighten it up โ˜บ

arriving at Max to collect the spare battered wings. I also took out & checked the wideband cos it simply kept reading too rich, nope it looks clear. once I let the car rest for a moment it reads fine again. there's no error code but I guess it's time to replace that sensor

after all that head wind & rain, she did a surprisingly rubbish 30-35mpg

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after 4pm the storm had passed and it was a calm drive back home at a light 60mph in the dark. 6 boring hrs later I reached home and she did 46mpg. was ok but expected more after driving that carefully, needs more refining of the mapping & alignment

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ยฃ80 of fuel for a rare pair of battered wings :p
they're gonna need a good panel beating to straighten up in future but at least they're not rusty

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replaced the wideband sensor and it reads alot better

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replaced the old 60-70mm reducer elbow & 60mm intake pipe with a full 70mm elbow & 70mm stainless pipe for better flow :cool:

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Quote; โ€œcalm drive back home at a light 60mph in the dark. 6 boring hrs later I reached home and she did 46mpg. Was ok but expected moreโ€

I recently did 63 mpg in my 22 year old 1300cc K11 over a 320 mile round trip @ 55/60 mph on mixed M way & A roads.

Itโ€™s on 46 K now & all original unmolested just as Nissan design engineers set it up to be put together right first time every time at Nissan Sunderland all those years ago.

It only gets simple basic DIY service maintenance by me every two years & passes MOTs year on year with no issues, snags or advisories.

Hands off works good enough for me. How could I do it better?

Happy days, happy K11 motoring days, long may they continue. ;)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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Quote; โ€œcalm drive back home at a light 60mph in the dark. 6 boring hrs later I reached home and she did 46mpg. Was ok but expected moreโ€

I recently did 63 mpg in my 22 year old 1300cc K11 over a 320 mile round trip @ 55/60 mph on mixed M way & A roads.

Itโ€™s on 46 K now & all original unmolested just as Nissan design engineers set it up to be put together right first time every time at Nissan Sunderland all those years ago.

It only gets simple basic DIY service maintenance by me every two years & passes MOTs year on year with no issues, snags or advisories.

Hands off works good enough for me. How could I do it better?

Happy days, happy K11 motoring days, long may they continue. ;)
63mpg is brilliant, I wish mine could do that during long cruises.
actually I just found out tonight that I've been using the wrong map in Nistune for running the standard N/A setup, which may explain why the AFR was all over the place and the poor mpg.
 
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the new Sony ECM-CS10 stereo microphone arrived

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tested it on my Sony digital recorder and it records the cars sound soo much better, clear, and sensitive enough ๐Ÿ˜Ž

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the wheels need aligning after replacing tyres but the rear trailing arms were seized so I need to overhaul them first before I can adjust the rear axle

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wirebrushed the whiteline arms

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the old handbrake cables are terribly worn/damaged from being ziptied to the trailing arms for the past 10yrs cos the whiteline arms didn't come with the required mount brackets, so I'll be welding a new mount next

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there was a ton of bubbly rust on this rear bumper beam but thankfully it's mostly still solid.
yet more rust repair to do at the rear-end and CBA tonight tbh ๐Ÿ™„

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I also just realised tday whilst playing with nistune that since I've been running the N/A setup from last year,
I've been using the wrong N/A map, which could explain the poor mpg & AFR & power.

Nistune has a library of original maps (ROM-Packs) from the various versions of micra ECU's.
- my original 1998 SLX cg13 NATS ECU had a serial code "1U203"
- last year during the ECU glitch issue I replaced it with a later facelift ECU with code "74B61", which has various slight tweaks to the map
- but I soon realised that I've actually been using the map for a "74B01", which has very different parameters, map scaling, injector size etc

so I'll soon be reverting back to the 1U203 map once she's running again
 
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pollyp

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welded some mounts on the whiteline trailing arms for the new handbrake cable

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painted

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wirebrushed most of the rust off the rear bumper beam and the lower half is quite thin but mostly ok

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looks like she's previously been reversed into a lamp post or something

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a hammer fixed it ๐Ÿ˜

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painted

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pollyp

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a local m8 Dillan said he had a preface bonnet I could have for free so I set off to newcastle to collect it.
turns out he no longer has a micra and couldn't sell the micra parts as fast as his storage rent was draining his wallet and just wants rid of it all asap so I could have anything there free ๐Ÿ˜

I ended up coming home with a rust free bonnet, a Magnum bucket seat botched onto a micra subframe, clarke pro 90 welder, 5 door wind deflectors, A-pillar covers (to re-do my gauge pods), a heatgun, and spare indicator storks.
well worth the trip for a load of freebies ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ‘Œ

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this Magnum solid bucket seat is soo light and will be handy for trackdays. it was simply bracketed onto the micra subframe as shown ๐Ÿ˜„ so I'll obviously bin the micra frame and fabricate a custom seat frame for it

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wind deflectors fits nicely, saves me from trying to make one from scratch

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this clarke PRO 90 was is a poor state but after cleaning the rusty drive wheel, replace the tip & shroud, regrease the tensioner, fit the spool, gas & regulator, it all works fine again ๐Ÿ‘Œ it's a really quiet machine cos it has no cooling fan like my 135TE Turbo

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I noticed that it was leaking gas inbetween welding so I opened up the MIG gun

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found out the pneumatic valve for the gas was simply abit sticky, some wd40 solved it

rear bumper painted ready to fit

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pollyp

pollyp

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while replacing the handbrake cables, this exhaust shield support bracket was bending and quite flimsy so I welded a sturdier version

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new handbrake cable all fitted and it now works soo smoothly ๐Ÿ˜Ž ๐Ÿ‘Œ

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one of the stiffer 5kg rear springs arrived. awaiting the other side and I've already got the 6kg front springs in garage

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pollyp

pollyp

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opened up & comparing the spare Clarke mig Pro 90 to my bigger Clarke mig 135TE turbo

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they both have very similar layout configurations except the 135TE has a cooling fan, power cord coming out the front rather than the rear, different circuit board and thermal cut-off

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pollyp

pollyp

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both of my 10yr old BC coilovers are looking abit crusty and the cover has perished.
so it's time to freshen it up, replace the springs with a stiffer set of 6/5kg front/rear coils, and finally lengthen the lower control arm by 10mm to correct the camber and stop the tyres rubbing on the chassis at full lock

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took abit longer than expected to strip only the right-hand apart due to rusty fasteners, espectially the big nylon locknut I used on the lower balljoint which was doing it's job and really really tight to get off

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strut in good state, just need a good wirebrush

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inner dust boot needs replacing. I'll also be looking for a 80mm x 300mm rubber bellow to cover the entire coilover against the elements

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I've still got the other left side to do.
this job has just gotten abit harder & longer to finish ๐Ÿ™„
 
Same here with alignment just had it done and wanting to change out suspension/other items that may need renewing.

There are guides available for a basic alignment. That may work just not very accurate as these days its laser alignment.

Sent from my ASUS_T00P using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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pollyp

pollyp

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the lower lock ring securing the hub to the coilover threaded body is seized pretty tight and the original flimsy "one teeth" coilover spanner tool is simply gonna chew the lock ring up.
so I made this lock ring tool by cutting precise teeth slots inside a used brake disc to spread the load evenly across all the teeths

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clamped the assembly on the vice, placed a long steel pole between the 2 bolts on the new lock ring tool and after a lot of brute force, it unscrewed off the lower hub

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the rusty steel lock ring was still seized onto the threaded body ๐Ÿ˜ค๐Ÿ™„๐Ÿค”

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after a tea break to calm down, I figured to lock two collers onto the new tool and clamped solid on a vice and then after a few persuasive hammering, the lock ring slowly loosened off thank god!

thinking of replacing it with an alloy version (hmm nope, BC has a ridiculous ยฃ7.70 postage totalling ยฃ23 for the tiny lock rings, and I've already ordered 2 seperate springs and a dust boot so I'm gonna leave it)

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all stripped to be wirebrushed

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assembled with the 6kg coils and helper springs

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63mpg is brilliant, I wish mine could do that during long cruises.
actually I just found out tonight that I've been using the wrong map in Nistune for running the standard N/A setup, which may explain why the AFR was all over the place and the poor mpg.
Yes I agree 63 mpg could be a new target for you to aim for & then surpass?

It is good enough for me in my 22 year old 1300cc K11 over a 320 mile round trip @ 55/60 mph on mixed M way & A roads using the defensive driving technique of simply avoiding throttle & brake driving.

Most of the credit is due to the Nissan design engineerโ€™s original optimal economy tuned balanced set up of the K series Micra which still applies to my vehicle as nothing has been changed or fiddled about with, except routine service consumables such as tyres & brake pads/linings during 46K from new.

Happy days, happy K11 motoring days! :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Yes I agree 63 mpg could be a new target for you to aim for & then surpass?

It is good enough for me in my 22 year old 1300cc K11 over a 320 mile round trip @ 55/60 mph on mixed M way & A roads using the defensive driving technique of simply avoiding throttle & brake driving.

Most of the credit is due to the Nissan design engineerโ€™s original optimal economy tuned balanced set up of the K series Micra which still applies to my vehicle as nothing has been changed or fiddled about with, except routine service consumables such as tyres & brake pads/linings during 46K from new.

Happy days, happy K11 motoring days! :)
naa she's very far from reaching that ๐Ÿ˜„
she's set up more towards high performance & circuit handling at the expense of comfort & economy.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
stripped apart & wirebrushed both the modded & spare lower arms in preparation for lengthening it

IMG_20200221_222908.jpg


the lower spherical bearing has held up ok for the past year, packing it all with thick red rubber grease certainly helped preserve it better but it does have 1/2mm of play now and time to replace it

IMG_20200221_210234.jpg


I found a crack developing on the drivers side arm ๐Ÿค” maybe the front poly bush was getting too sticky and bending the arm repeatedly till a crack from the edge lip propagated?
I'll drill, grind & weld the crack back together and also add an extra strip of steel along the front to reinforce it more

IMG_20200221_222947.jpg
IMG_20200221_223005.jpg
IMG_20200221_223035.jpg
IMG_20200221_223019.jpg


using a chop saw to maintain accurate consistant alignment, I chopped a straight 22mm section off the spare arms which'll be welded onto the modded arms to lengthen them

IMG_20200222_191149.jpg
IMG_20200222_191256.jpg
IMG_20200222_191317.jpg
IMG_20200222_191329.jpg


this mod will hopefully push the wheel hub outwards to restore the normal track-width, stop the tyres rubbing the chassis at full lock and allow the BC coilover top plate to adjust the camber beyond 1.5deg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
arm pieces tacked into place

IMG_20200223_200818.jpg


all welded up after hours of work, had to do several passes. gonna add another strip of steel across the front to reinforce it.
wish I had a TIG welder for better control

IMG_20200223_221451.jpg
IMG_20200223_221333.jpg
IMG_20200223_221411.jpg


painted the coilover hub bracket

IMG_20200223_144342.jpg
IMG_20200223_144333.jpg
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Bad news

This morning I woke up with a sore eye as though some grit is under my right eye lid.

Couldn't rub it away, it just got more inflamed, eye wash did nothing, was really annoying to blink & look at a certain angle with that sensation whilst driving.

Went to a local hospital after work to see nurse bout it.

She numbed and UV dyed the eye looking for debris scratches.
Unfortunately turns out that I have a tiny spec of metal stuck in the cornea over the iris area from grinding my welds briefly without goggles
She tried swabbing it but looks like the cornea skin has grown over it during sleep therefore creating the annoying 'bump'

Gave me antibacteria ointment but I'll have to visit another hospital's eye specialist at 8:30 before work to try remove it with a needle & magnifier

Guess Kassandra is on hold for now

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
Bad news

This morning I woke up with a sore eye as though some grit is under my right eye lid.

Couldn't rub it away, it just got more inflamed, eye wash did nothing, was really annoying to blink & look at a certain angle with that sensation whilst driving.

Went to a local hospital after work to see nurse bout it.

She numbed and UV dyed the eye looking for debris scratches.
Unfortunately turns out that I have a tiny spec of metal stuck in the cornea over the iris area from grinding my welds briefly without goggles
She tried swabbing it but looks like the cornea skin has grown over it during sleep therefore creating the annoying 'bump'

Gave me antibacteria ointment but I'll have to visit another hospital's eye specialist at 8:30 before work to try remove it with a needle & magnifier

Guess Kassandra is on hold for now

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
I've had similar, not the most enjoyable thing I've had to do, it's easier if it's off centre in the iris rather than the pupil as you don't have to watch the needle coming...
 
When I was a young electrical trainee technician I got a speck of metal swarth on my cornea sclera while hole cutting. Some years later I got arc eye just walking through a structural steel fabrication workshop.
In both cases, after medical attention I made a full recovery, as you will.

I quickly learned from these experiences that it is quicker, better & cheaper to apply appropriate H/S PPE precautions every time, to do it right first time, to do it once.

So much welding comes with long term health risks exposure to intense arc radiation, breathing flux & metal particles fumes PM 2.5. requires more than just a mask & goggles?

https://www.hse.gov.uk/welding/health-risks-welding.htm

Quote; โ€œFine particles (PM2.5) pose the greatest health riskโ€

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=pm+2.5+particles+health+risks

Probably much more injurious to long term health than smoking & is it really worth those known listed risks?

Get well soon.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
I've had similar, not the most enjoyable thing I've had to do, it's easier if it's off centre in the iris rather than the pupil as you don't have to watch the needle coming...
Yeah it ain't pleasant, mine was at 7'clock offset the pupil. Was trying to concentrate hard at the incoming light but I can briefly see the nurse prodding the syringe needle at the cornea and my vision wobbles

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
When I was a young electrical trainee technician I got a speck of metal swarth on my cornea sclera while hole cutting. Some years later I got arc eye just walking through a structural steel fabrication workshop.
In both cases, after medical attention I made a full recovery, as you will.

I quickly learned from these experiences that it is quicker, better & cheaper to apply appropriate H/S PPE precautions every time, to do it right first time, to do it once.

So much welding comes with long term health risks exposure to intense arc radiation, breathing flux & metal particles fumes PM 2.5. requires more than just a mask & goggles?

https://www.hse.gov.uk/welding/health-risks-welding.htm

Quote; โ€œFine particles (PM2.5) pose the greatest health riskโ€

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=pm+2.5+particles+health+risks

Probably much more injurious to long term health than smoking & is it really worth those known listed risks?

Get well soon.
Ur right.
For many years I never had such serious injury so the moment of ignorance thinking I'll just quickly grind a section without goggles to save few sec of convenience and be OK...

Actually ended up punishing me now with visits to the hospital, a painful eye during work, afew quids worth of meds and most importantly losing at least a WEEK of progress on Kassandra honestly it's not worth the risk I learnt

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
So the nurse tday tried poking the flake of rust out with a needle but can only get some of it out cos its actually abit deep (probably made worse from all the rubbing)

So we had to reschedule the Fri for a specialist to dig abit deeper with more precision.

Once the numbing wore off at work tday, jeezuz! My eye was stinging like chopping onions and driving the van 1 eyed was insane and the eye was painfully sensitive to bright light, the super glaring low & rainy sun was agony ๏ธ

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
So the nurse tday tried poking the flake of rust out with a needle but can only get some of it out cos its actually abit deep (probably made worse from all the rubbing)

So we had to reschedule the Fri for a specialist to dig abit deeper with more precision.

Once the numbing wore off at work tday, jeezuz! My eye was stinging like chopping onions and driving the van 1 eyed was insane and the eye was painfully sensitive to bright light, the super glaring low & rainy sun was agony ๏ธ

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app
Hello.
I know what you are talking about.
I've had almost the same problem ( 2 thin metal pieces stuck inside the white part ).
Best whises Paul

Inviato dal mio SM-T585 utilizzando Tapatalk
 
Ur right.
For many years I never had such serious injury so the moment of ignorance thinking I'll just quickly grind a section without goggles to save few sec of convenience and be OK...

Actually ended up punishing me now with visits to the hospital, a painful eye during work, afew quids worth of meds and most importantly losing at least a WEEK of progress on Kassandra honestly it's not worth the risk I learnt

Sent from my CLT-L29 using Micra Sports Club mobile app

Your visual distress reminds me of my once & only arc eye that was nearly forty years ago & had largely forgotten the pain intensity & stress. I do remember the extreme light sensitivity that I could not bear to see the brake lights of the vehicles in front on the way to the A & E at night. I could not stand daylight at all.

I did not have a clue what the problem was as I never did any welding. That ignorance changed when formally diagnosed with arc eye & hospitalised for a week at great expense to my employer sponsor in Saudi Arabia. Caused by simply walking through a steel fabrication workshop without appropriate PPE precautions to attend to a down shop overhead traveling crane electrical logic controls breakdown.

With benefit of hindsight I now consider it was due to the over excuberence of youth combined with a lack of experience ignorance at the time.

Get well soon.
 
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