Photo of engine damper installed and short update..

cisco

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The engine damper is installed. Brakes are 100% back together (Did I already post that?) non-ABS with larger ABS booster. Battery has been mounted. New black titanium wiper blades are installed, stereo and amp is installed (apart from rear speakers and enclosures/trim for the back of the car).

Today bluey went off to the shop to get all the turbo pipework fixed up. Expectied completion date is end of next week. Pretty good, see how we go. Not long to go now. A quick run on the dyno after this, and we're back in business with lots of photos on their way.

Here's a pic of the engine damper. Excuse the quality, this was taken with a mobile phone.
 

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cisco

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And off we go on the big truck
 

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CMF_Napster

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hey cisco, can ask what exactly does the "engine damper" do?

i havent even heard of that modifiction before and havent seen it either?

cheers pard

Napster

also what happened to ur k11?
 

cisco

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Hi Napster,

"It bolts from the right hand strut tower onto the engine and stops the engine moving so much back and forth. Just dampens it and controls its movement. Gives smoother launches and release of power and makes your engine mounts last longer for high powered engines where there is much more wear and tear on them."

My k11 was off the road for the past couple of months while I have been redesigning the turbo pipework system (manifold, dump pipe, intercooler piping, new intercooler, new turbo) etc etc. Had a few things I needed to improve and replace. This should be the final engine work I need to do. Should be more reliable and the turbo pumping out colder air now, i.e. more efficient at the same psi boost.
 

CMF_Napster

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cheers for that cisco! :)

ur car sounds MAD mate. id love to own sometin like ur k11?
r there places in australia then that can design the "manifold outlet pipes" to ur desire then?

how did you know that "if u re-designed the pipe work that your car will be quicker"?? did u sit down and just re-map wot u wanted? or do you know what ur doing? (mechanic as a job or sumtin)

cheers

napster
 

CMF_DaveNE.UK

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tony i was thinking exactly the same thing! will it not put excess load on the driver side strut tower. you have amsses of powr and im sure that it could easily damage the tower and that could be very dangerous. aslo mounted only on one side for support??? that will make the distribution un-even?

good luck witht he new piping tho and itching to see the new RR results.
 

CMF_evade

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its not going to damage the tower because its a DAMPER which is also going to be staying within the bounds of your engine mounts.

its like saying having a shock in your strut will damage your car. the fact is the damper is there to absorb it not transfer it straight through
 

CMF_NotAnotherSSS

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As aaron said, its just a damper. The suspension and chassis around that area gets more strain put through it if you hit a pothole or if you were flying around a racetrack.

About the only thing it is putting extra stress on are the strut top bolts. Even then you'd be more worried about suffering chassis/firewall stress fractures and cracks after fitting solid engine mounts.
 

CMF_White Knight

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Cisco let me know when /if other members can purchase one.
Whitey needs something like this as it has a fair bit of flex when the power hits.
From the pic it looks good and as you and aaron said its a damper so will absorb a lot of movement.
Gee Bluey looking good and looks as if Santa will give it back to you pre Xmas.
Go easy everyone cops are everywhere and if pulled over you will have to blow the bag plus checking you for "chemical usage"

 

cisco

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Napster, not saying the car will be quicker.. But that will probably be a side effect.

My goals were:
- more efficient pipework to reduce loss from turbulence and congestion. This should aid quicker spool up times, i.e. reduce boost threshold (which is what everyone commonly calls lag - but lag is really the time that a turbo takes at any RPM to go from nothing to making boost when you were just cruising and suddenly hit the throttle). Boost threshold is the RPM that the turbo makes full boost by.
- So it should spool up quicker, the old turbo was a bit flogged and being overworked, so the other main goal was to produce the same power at lower PSI and for the turbo to be pushing out colder air. This will make the engine last longer, make more power for the same psi boost etc etc.

The theory about the engine damper stressing a strut tower is a furfy. Remember: you already have engine mounts that do this job, this is only assisting them because now you have lots more power so the engine rocks back and forth more. Your strut/chassis is so much beefier than any rocking an engine could throw at it. Consider the weight of each corner of the entire car that is passed up through our shocks into the strut. And yes as above, its an engine "damper", so it dampens impact, its not a solid metal girder :)

And.. its made by Fujita san at B-Crews in Japan who is a top shelf guru in his field with some crazy number of years experience, has a Japanese automotive engineer degree and thoroughly tests every single product that he chooses to design and place on his highest of quality Japanese shelves.

You have to meet this guy and see the place to believe me. He doesn't make/design/sell rubbish.
 

cisco

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And I forgot, another goal of all this work was to fix up the turbo piping because the last setup positioned the dump pipe to smash through the radiator. So I had to modify my radiator. Not a big deal, but it just annoyed me, meant I had a smaller radiator, and made it weaker and I had problems with it leaking a couple of times. So I thought, stuff that, I'm going to rip it apart, put in a factory sized radiator, and do the whole thing properly.

If you have a minor front end bingle and stuff your radiator, you don't want a $650 custom one being there!
 

CMF_Napster

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cisco that sounds a big job, but hopefull it wont be too long till ur Turbo K11 Is up and running.

so to some up:
uve designed evertin so that overall the engine recieves colder air and that the turbo will KICK IN QUICKER meaning you can out accelarate CARS like they didnt exist lol

will the pipe work that ur making produce more BHP?

would you have an estimate of BHP by the end of it?

Thanks

Napster
 

cisco

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It made 137kw@wheels before, I would like to make that same power with less boost this time.

Then I would like to run a bit more boost (say same boost as previous setup) and crack 150kw@wheels.

Just have to go gentle on the drivetrain. If its just greater top end, then it will be fine, but big torque spikes are what kill drivetrains. Let's see how we go.
 

CMF_Napster

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"torque spikes"??

neverheard of it put like that before lol.
how can u prevent them though? didnt think they occured, but is it only on "turbo cars"? or just the setup that u have gone for?

thats a lot of power that ur BEAST will be pushing out. accelaration would be LUSH

thanks

napster
 

CMF_Sean

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Torque (Nm): the ability of the engine to rotate the wheels under load

Power (BHP/kW): the maximum output power of the engine.

When cisco's talking about torque spiking, he means that the turbo creates HEAPS of torque in the lower to mid range revs. Torque is what kills gearboxes as it shocks the teeth on the gears. Having more power will aide in the top end speed, but torque is where the acceleration comes from

Sean
 
i think what cisco means is that on a turbo car (depending on the setup) when your turbo spools up you suddenly get a big lump of forward motion. ie torque, this sudden change in speed will put shock to your drivetrain (gearbox, diff, shafts)correct me if im wrong. oh a little of topic but why are they driveshafts on the front and halfshafts on the back.
 

CMF_Sean

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Its just a generic slang word for driveshafts

Driveshafts up front becayse they're providing direct drive to the wheels. Most mechanics call the rear driveshafts halfshafts purely because each one goes from the middle of the car (diff) to the outside (hub) so they call it a "halfshaft"

Sean
 

cisco

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I call them both driveshafts.

But I'm sure the term halfshafts for front wheel drives must come from not having a single driveshaft any more like you do on a rear wheel drive. You now have two half-shafts which come out of either side of the gearbox and are half the length of one traditional big long driveshaft on a rear wheel drive. That's got to be it :)
 

CMF_Napster

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cheers for the info on "Torque Spikes" :)

is there a way of preventing strain on the driveshaft??
or is that impossible with a turbo?

and its not as if u can gradualy introduce the boost from the turbo, to slow the torque, but then u wouldnt have that quick accelartion??

Napster
 

cisco

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No you can completely control it..

Its all about boost control etc..

You can get an electronic boost controller and ideally control how much air you are bleeding from the wastegate at what times, i.e. which gear/rpm etc..

You might bleed a bit less at the rpm range when you typically find it spiking, and then bleed more after that point has gone, say higher up in the rpm range etc.

Its all just really trial and error. Giving your car a few decent dyno runs, seeing what's happening. On my setup, I only have a two-stage (i.e. high and low) boost controller. So the extent to which I could tune out a big torque-spike would really only be by leaving the controller in low mode until I choose to flick the switch to high.. etc. Electronic boost controllers bring so much additional functionality, i.e. you can electronically program the amount of bleeding from the wastegate actuator line.

Should be all ok. But when this big fella T28bb comes alive, I reckon its going to have a fair amount of push back! Should be awesome :)
 

cisco

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But then again I think, that's why you have a throttle - its the ultimate torque controller isn't it :)
 

CMF_Napster

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cheers cisco.

cant believe you know all that though lol very inteligent or u just know wot ur doing, probably the 1st one lol.

if i knew wot i was doing then i would probably do sumtin to my engine perforamnce, but dont know where to start.

well i do, and thats get a 1.3 k11 or buy "Mighty" lol

thanks

napster
 

cisco

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Nah, just get out in your garage and get amongst it.

You'll soon learn how most things fit together.

I still learn stuff every time I do a major operation on the car. You always find out some little interesting thing that you never knew before. Sometimes you forget and by doing a boring, repetitive job you remind yourself "oh that's right, that's the best way to remove this thing.." etc..
 

CMF_Napster

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id love to know how to fix and install stuff on my K11 cause then it would mean i wouldnt have to spend BULK MONEY on mechanics (well i dont really cause i havent had a problem yet lol (fingers crossed)) but then my mates dad works in ATS (mechanics shop) and he can fix minor problems for me cheaply :)

another problem is space. i havent got a garage or anywhere to "raise the car on a jack (if i need to get under the car) cause my drive is slopped.

so i would have to go somewhere flat, that isnt busy.

if i open my bonnet and look under it i havent got a clue wot i wanna do. i just look at the "shinning engine bay stateing "16valve" lol and my customised air intake pipe lol

i also havent got anytin to add to my car anyway.

unlike ur BEAST that always getting upgrades.

cheers

Napster
 

CMF_Napster

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sean:

having ur car to modify as a "hobby" sounds like great fun. i loved it when i finished my "boot install" yestday. was a great feeling cause my boot looks and sounds amazing lol.
thats a hobby for me. making the car look better, with little "EASY" touches lol.
napster

 

cisco

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Its made and sold by B-Crews in Japan. About $150 off the shelf I think.
 

cisco

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Yeah for sure, hey BTW, the exhaust place working on my car right now grinded a heap of metal off the large chunky front plate of the engine damper, so now it clears the air filter. I had the same problem, there just seems to be excess metal on that front plate, that it doesn't even need at all, not even for strength etc. So that's one possible option..
 

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