Over heating

R

rizy102

Guest
hiya
got a problem. i have a j reg 1.0 lx k10 and when drving around the streets for more than an hour the car starts heating above the half way mark. the fan kicks in but doesnt cool it down enough. any1 have any ideas?
thanks
 
Is this causing any problems to your car? Mine sometimes does this, so i find sticking the heater controls onto 'windscreen', using fresh air and wacking it on full. Open the sunroof and the window a fraction and you wont feel the air coming out. You'l soon see the dial drop
 
If the temperature gauge is only halfway, it isn't overheating. It's just running hotter than usual. I don't know why it is, but people seem terrified on the K10 running even a little bit hot.

If you are that fussed about it, check the cooling system:
- is it full with the correct water/antifreeze mixture?
- is the radiator in good condition, not blocked or falling apart?
- is the thermostat working properly?
- is the system full of crap or something (flush it)
- has your headgasket gone? (Hellman's Finest in the radiator and expansion tank would shot up).

The thermostat is on the top of the engine near to the distributor, held on with 3 bolts. Open it up, gently lever it out, stick it in a pan of water just off the boil, and it should open fully. If it doesn't get a replacement. Make sure you replace it the right way up with the check valve at the top and use some instant gasket to seal it.

The thing on the radiator with the wires is the fan switch, if the fan is coming on as the engine gets hotter, then it is working.
 
its going past the halfway mark and doesnt com back to the middle thats why im worried. ive already checked for all those things and have flused the system but still the same. ill try testing the termostat now.
thanks
 
yeah i took the thermostat out and it was goosed. got a new one and its runnin really good. better then ever before.
thanks everyone.
 
wait a minute. its just started doing it again! no mayo in oil, no leaks, flushed it twice, changed thermostat!
what else?????
 
Rather than the cooling system not working properly, the engine could be producing too much heat. This could be caused by incorrect timing, poor fuel, headgasket leak, wrong cam timing (unlikely, as it would have had to have always been like this), a few other things.

But like I say, as long as it is running, and no hoses blow, it isn't overheating.
 
Take a picture so we can see how high it is! Andrew knows what he's talking about so dont worry
 
right then got it checked out and radiator is blocked. is there any way of unblocking them? just wanted to know cause ive already bought a new radiator and its working perfectly.
thanks
p.s. the temp gauge was bout 5mm from top at some points. now its the opposite way round. lol
 
right. its come back again but happened only once after 3 hours of around town driving. the temperature went right high and fan wouldnt com on and car was running awfull. the pipes were boiling but the radiator wasnt and the bottom pipe was slightly colder than the upper one. also didnt feel like there was any pressure on the radiator cap, but wen i opened it after five minutes it all squirted out. refilled with more water and its been ok after that. wat could it be? i just changed the radiator.
thanks
 
Could well be a block in the cooling system itself, not just the rad. Is there any way you can blast your cooling system with a high power supply of water?
 
apart from if you have Super S dials, because they behave differently, a K10's temp gauge should never go above the half point if your cooling system is working properly.

And thats gospel.
 
well thats what im trying to say that my cooling systems not workin properly. ill try to get some high pressure water going through there. but is ther not anythin i can put through the cooling system to unblock watever it is?
thanks
 
if it was the waterpump, you'd know about it. Make sure your heater is on the hot setting when you try and flush it.
 
The impeller on the water pump is designed to have massive clearances so that it won't wear away, doesn't mind downstream blockages, and doesn't suffer from cavitation. The only thing that can go wrong with it is the bearing. When this bearing goes, you tend to get a lot of noise to start with, followed by water leaking and then the cam belt going. It's normally very noticeable, but a pain to get to, so you replace it when you do the cambelt.
 

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