Newbie K11 owner requires urgent help!

N

Nick Hall

Hi,
My micra suddenly wont start. I bought a 1.0 K11 1999 T reg in april, run perfect till today. Went shopping, got back in car and it wont start. Engine turns over fine but nothing, 2 things I noticed are that the usual humming from the fuel pump under the rear seat does come on and neither does the orange engine check light on the dash. I have checked the fuel pump fuse which was fine, also check relays by the battery, no rust/corrsion, nothing! Is it a NATS problem or something else?
Help would be greatly appreciated, thanks,
Nick.
 
The fuel pump may have packed in, it's a common fault on the k11. For a 1999 it costs i think no more than £50 for a brand new one and they do come with warrenty, i don't know what nissan charge for the same part but it's probable that they charge more for it.
Something worth mentioning is that there are many threads on here with the procedure for changing the fuel pump on the k11, just do a little search and they should come right up. What milage is on the clock by the way? and also are you in the habbit of regularly running the tank low or using supermarket filling stations? As doing either of those things is not good for a micra.
 
hi nick :grinning:
i would try a drop of petrol down the throttlebody first, to see whether its a spark or a fuel problem
 
Cheers for the help, ill check the fuel in engine trick tomorrow. The engine has done 83,000 and yes i do run the tank quite low and do go to morrisons sometimes, oops, lesson learnt. Fingers crossed it fires with a squirt of juice tomoz.
Thanks again for the quick and helpfull responses.
Nick.
 
Tried putting a "squirt" of fuel in the inlet, nothing! No spark I presume! Why is the engine check light on the dash never coming on, any ideas? Will the NATS cut out the ignition, if so am I in expensive to repair zone? Help one slightly naffed k11 owner,
Regards Nick.
 
nats cuts the injectors nick, and the pre 2000 eobd1 system is pretty crude and wont flag all faults.
assuming your dizzy is turning (ie, no broken chains) there are some recent threads covering the voltages and signals to test for regarding the dizzy
 
Nick Hall said:
...I noticed are that the usual humming from the fuel pump under the rear seat does come on and neither does the orange engine check light on the dash...
Click to expand...

Well assuming you meant to say that the fuel pump humming noise doesn't come on. I would say that the fuel pump should be the first thing to check. It's extreamly simple to do, all you have to do is disconnect the fuel pipe on top of the fuel filter, turn the ignition to stage 2 ("ON" not "ACC") and if the pump is working you should see fuel squirting 3inchs high up out of the top of the filter like a little fountain. If it doesn't then the pump is defective.
If the distributor was faulty you would get an engine light flashing constantly as i did when the coil and crank angle sensor malfunctioned in my 1999 1.0L inspiration, with nats, at 65,000 miles.
 
Correction from me, the fuel pump sound DOES N'T come on, soz! So after the fuel squirt test should I check the spark at the plugs or is the spark another system that NATS cuts out? I think its looking like a trip to my local nissan dealer, god help my wallet!
 
Just another quickie before I have to go to work, give me more to ponder about till tea time. What exactly does NATS cut off,frank says injectors, anything else or is that it? I'd so like to crack this with help from you guys mainly (other than money which is somewhat lacking in my case) because I want to learn as much as possible about my little k11.
Many thanks so far, Nick.
 
yes nick, checking for a spark would be my next move :grinning:
and nats just cuts the injector signal i believe
 
Calm down, forget about the nats and concentrate on the fundamentals of the combustion engine. Fuel, Spark, Air. Without fuel there is nothing to burn, without spark there is no way to ignite the fuel, and without oxygen there is no reactant for the fuel to burn with. If you keep panicing about the nats then yes you will end up spending a lot of money for nothing.
Do the fuel pump test 1st.
If it is working correctly then check the spark; do this by removing a plug lead (any lead), put a CONDUCTIVE screwdriver in the end of it, not an insulated one, rest it in a position where it is NOT touching the body but is close enough to allow a spark to jump the gap, then crank the engine over (better still get someone else to crank it) and look for a spark. Even the rac men use this method.
If the spark check passes and the fuel check passes, and every fuse, relay and switch is working correctly. Then and only then take your key to a dealer and have them re-code it. If anything is going to fail on the nats system it will be the key loosing it's code. New keys are £15, having existing keys re-coded costs the same.
 
Well got home from work and read your replies.(many thanks by the way!)
Checked for a spark, nothing. I will wipp off the dizzy tomorrow morning when its better light and see what I can see!
Ta, Nick.
 
Just another quickie, the "dizzy", is it like my older cars of years gone by with a rota arm touching 4 "posts"? Am I checking for wear or burnt mark, maybe clean up with some emery?
Cheers Nick.
I so wish it wasnt dark outside this early,must be about to p%$s down!
 
Did you check the fuel pump? With the engine light; if it doesn't light up and stay on for 3-5secs when you turn the ignition on then it's probable that the bulb has popped, you can swap it with one of the other bulbs just to check.
There is a second engine light however, it is on the side of the ecu, hidden behind the gray pannel next to the clutch pedal. It's just two philips screws to undo to remove the panel. It's a lot easier than removing the clocks to get to the bulbs, so try that first.
 
Well one more try today on my day off before taken to local dealer to get it diagnosed (£65 + vat by the way). Removed relay by the battery,black 1 next to the 2 blue. No rust/corrosion so just put it back in. Thought i'd remove dizzy cover just to av a look, undid the 2 screws but struggled to remove cover so thought sod this lets get to the dealer, so just put it back on. Organised with my dad to tow it to the dealer, starting pushing car out of drive to tie it up to my dads car, put keys in so i could steer it and the engine check light came on and the fuel pump humbed away under the rear seats, as the chavs say, OH MY GOD! Jumped in and it started perfect, OMG. I never tried after fiddling today so either the relay is dodgy or the dizzy is dodgy, will buy a relay anyway tomorrow cos I guess there resonably cheap compared to the dizzy, and see how it goes.
So so chuffed. I know its not cured but i think i/we 've found the fault, many thanks for all the help and advise, priceless!
So to some up, I'll put in a new relay and monitor for a while.
Thanks again, Nick.
 
Well tried it this morning, dead as a dodo, ######! Tuck off dizzy cap, all posts bad corrosion, cleaned up thinking that would crack it, no!
Back to plan whatever, ie the dealer. Dads gone fishing so cant tow it till later, need chocolate and a fag, oh and a brew to try a calm down, not impressed at all!
Nick.
 
well, could still be the dizzy eh? cracked cap? poor connection somewhere that you knocked whilst inside the dizzy cleaning it up? If i were you i would get a low mileage dizzy from a breakers and try that.
The dealer wont necessarily come up with the problem so i would use that as a last last resort.
Oh, and chocolate's for girls! :D
 
When you say dizzy, are you talking about the whole unit not just the cap and how much of a job is it to fit a replacement. Surely thers an issue with fitting it to make sure the timing isnt all messed up?
Nick.
 
The whole unit is the dixxy and yes that is what you need, and no the dealer cannot diagnose a ######ed dizzy, i know this from personal experience. Changing the dizzy is a simple job if you have good common sense. You need to get a fine-line permanent marker pen and mark up where you current dizzy is set (on the engine side not the dizzy itself because you will be removing it, andso will loose your referance). On the replacement dizzy (whilst is is still on the scrap car) you will need to draw around the nut with the marker before you loosen it. This way when you fit it onto your car you will be able to simply line up the nut with the circle outline you drew around the old nut, and whoop-dee-doo it's all lined up perfect and the timing will be spot on.
If you are not sure that you can do this then i would reccomend asking for help from someone mechanically minded. Plus if it don't work you can blame them for it afterwards :grinning:
 
porkpie700 said:
Did you check the fuel pump? With the engine light; if it doesn't light up and stay on for 3-5secs when you turn the ignition on then it's probable that the bulb has popped, you can swap it with one of the other bulbs just to check.
There is a second engine light however, it is on the side of the ecu, hidden behind the gray pannel next to the clutch pedal. It's just two philips screws to undo to remove the panel. It's a lot easier than removing the clocks to get to the bulbs, so try that first.
Click to expand...

worth cheking fuel pump
and you got the obd2 system-----code reader 20 odd pounds ebay
 
Well, there are only a certain number of things that make up the ingnition sysem, the dizzy incorporates the coil, distributer and 'timing in' sensor, so still left is ECU and the wiring to and from both, deffinately worth checking the plugs going to the dizzy and the ecu and the voltages and resistance to and from the dizzy:) then i would try another ecu (should be around another 20 pounds odd from a breakers).
Dont give up now nick!:D you'l get there and then you will be laughing
 
Well I've done the dirty deed and towed it to my local dealer to get on the magical diagnosis machine, awaiting feedback. Will let you know!
Cheers Nick.
 
Well, its back from the dealer and its working fine, so far. The diagnosis machine pointed towards intermitant wiring problem at the ecu apparently. The person at the service desk told me they had spent 2 hours swopping around relays, nothing specific. Only charged me for the machine test, ie £65 + vat. Mmmmmmmmmmmm, I know what i think but anyway, I have my micra back on the road. Watch this space and thanks again to everyone on the very helpfull input,
Ta, Nick.
 

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