Me again

CMF_Glenj

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Hi all

After reading through some of the different post relating to my job at hand, i have seen that if i change my head gasket and skim the head (if i can due to the racing regulations i face) that the cams will need to be advanced.

Is this correct?
If so how is that done, will a timing tool be needed?

Thanks

Pic of car...
 

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CMF_Glenj

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Cheers Frank

I will be honest, that is a little above my head at mo,(total newbie to this car only built the car a few months back) not to sure what dowels you talking about at mo, will have a closer look later/tomorrow, also would if be possible to put up the rules of the motorsport iam involved in to see if you can possibly see if there is any other ways i can get more out of it.

Thanks again
Glen

sorry in advance for the more questions to follow.......
 

CMF_Glenj

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Hi and thanks again

Ok can see which dowels you mean now, not to sure i will need to do that with the minimal amount i can probably skim the head to the rules (will ask more on this im sure).

Think i have problems before i get to that stage anyways :(

After taking the head off to unvail the nasty HG underneath i noticed the crank pulley has moved (see pic) now also doest seem to be TDC, any help much appreciated

Thanks
Glen

 

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CMF_Glenj

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yeah that where i set it bud, you can see the dab of paint where it should be, was only after took head off noticed it had moved some how, not to sure how this could be done thought you would need a bit of force to move it, wouldnt of done it cos of the top sprockets would it (while lifting head off)

Am i screwed....

thanks

pic of timing marks i set...
 

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CMF_frank2

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dont worry about timing the cams back up glen, as long as the lobes on cyl 2 and 3 are pointing at the edge of the cap bolt like this

(can you see the 2 red marks ? they,re a bit faint !)
 

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CMF_Glenj

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so as long as cams are in this position when every thing goes back together(next week i hope) things should be ok?, what about the crank to i re-set that back to 0 then put chains back on or leave it as it is and just make sure the cams are in the correct position?

Still trying to get ma head around how i have moved it....
 

CMF_frank2

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there are different colour links on the chain for lining up mate (if they,re still visible) but to reposition the lower chain you would need to remove the sump and side cover !.
just set it on tdc and line the cams as that pic ^ you should have 5 links "inside" the 2 dots ( the lobes on cyl 2 and 3 may be reversed, left to right, when the dots are lined up)

 

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CMF_Glenj

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cheers bud, When setting back to TDC should i go anti-clockwise a bit?

Looking at my pics i was probably a link out anyways looking at you diagram (see pic) the dowels in the cams do they have to be in the position shown above too?

Got quite a few pics before taken head off if needed to see more, just have to excuse me where i have gone mad a little with the missus bingo dabber haha

Glen
 

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CMF_Glenj

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Just got my hands on the new rule book, dont look like i can touch it. Cylinder head thickness no less than 121m- is the rule, manual says head is 121.1-.3 so not to sure what can take off machine shop monday!, might not touch it if not needed now iv mess this timing up.
 

CMF_Glenj

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Just got my hands on the new rule book, dont look like i can touch it. Cylinder head thickness no less than 121m- is the rule, manual says head is 121.1-.3 so not to sure what can take off machine shop monday!, might not touch it if not needed now iv mess this timing up.
 

CMF_Glenj

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Yeah just have to be careful im not braking rules ( i know rules are meant to be broken), yeah Autograss racing Micra was added to the class 1 last year.

Will keep you posted, cheers for all your help so far

 

CMF_Glenj

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Quick update and few more questions :)

Picked cylinder head up today, done maximum skim that the motorsport rules would allow 0.25m not much to shout about, cleaned head up and new seals ect... Going to start tomorrow to suck in and see

Haynes says silcone to be used on side of head, what silcone to be used?, new head set looks like it has that part on the new HG.

Should i re-postion TDC when head is on or before?

 

CMF_Glenj

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quick update.....

Sat. prepped garage, tools, head,block and back and forth for things

sun. managed to get head on after much debating about no. 8 head bolt (felt strange when tightening by hand). snow started to come down fast and it was fooking freezing :)

when placing cams in for a quick look, it says in my bible dowels will be at 9oclock inlet and 12 exhaust, looking at my pics this is where i took them off, after setting TDC should i now go ahead and fit the cams like this, put chains on via franks diagram and things should be ok or is there anything else to think of?

Cheers again

 

CMF_frank2

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it would be worth checking your opening/closing events glen, i use the notch in the top of the bucket to check that it spins freely, the i turn the engine till the lobe makes contact, and record the degrees on the crank pulley notches as the exhust closes and inlet opens
 

CMF_Glenj

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What do you mean the notch in top of bucket bud? The more i get into this the more i wish i would of put a transplant in, Ah well to far in now and need to know this stuff anyways

would it be possible to upload videos on here or go via you tube, i could put back together and video it when turning by hand and give me you opinion...

Also there is a little dowel on the side of the head behind the idler sprocket does this fit into the little bracket thingy behind sprockets (seems to move around)

 

CMF_frank2

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Glenj WROTE:

where do i find that ^
Click to expand...

turn cyl #1 inlet and exhaust bucket till you can access the notches easily, then use a screwdriver to twist the bucket while turning the crank, and the exact moment the bucket is,nt free to twist is when the lobe makes contact eh :)
 

CMF_Glenj

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ok cheers bud, took me a cpl of nights looking and looking to see what you meant but with you now

Ok gonna get back together and see where iam at

Best to have oil in when turning by hand?

Cheers
 

CMF_frank2

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Glenj WROTE:

"^ you mean where lobes contact? what should they be

To much to take in for my peanut brain :)
Click to expand...
aye the base circle clearance, set the lobe at the top and check the gap underneath with feelers.
they should be .25 to .4mm ish, but i would strive for .2mm on 1.0 cams personally mate
 

CMF_Glenj

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After setting cams as above and to manual, i am now struggling getting the chain on the sprockets.

I did get the chain on just like the diagram with the golden links on the mating marks, but all the slack was in the middle of the sprockets (should of taken a pic) i didnt think this was right so tried to get the slack on tensioner side, with this now i cant line the links up with the marks and struggling get the chain on with the slack on tensioner side

Any ideas
 

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CMF_Glenj

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Yeah thats what it seemed even just half a tooth maybe, i was right to start again and trying get the slack on the tensioner side?

Will i be able just to move it now its bolted down if needed

Will get more pics up tomorrow

 

CMF_Glenj

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Ok will try to get it back on, when i did get the chain on tho the slack was in the middle of the sprockets, when getting the slack on the tensioner side i cant get the chain on or when i put it the on sprocket i cant get the sprocket to line up with the dowel..

Does it matter that the gold links line up with the mating marks?
 
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