MA10 problems, please help

Recently i've been having terrible problems with my k10 road car. Lovely clean micra and is my pride and joy but in the past week, i've been having problems. When i start the car it struggles to idle but that is the lest of my worries because as soon as you touch the accelarater the car just cuts its self out, i thought it was flodding but i changed the carb off a k10 which i have raced and it was off the sweetest engine, but is still doing the same thing and now wont even start,

Please help guys, i cant put my finger on it?!

Regards jack creaven,
MA155
 
I found a great internet tip recently. If you suspect a vacuum link, squirt butane from a can of lighter gas at each end of each vac pipe. If the engine rev's up, you've found your leak :grinning:.
 
Thanks a million guys, honeestly. Guy thank you and i will try that soon, also Bob its great to hear from a fellow grasser and i have loads of fuel pumps around (good and bad) and i think thats the problem, im going buying a brand new fuel pump soon, no matter whether its that or not it will come in handy.
 
had a problem with my K10 a long time ago and it turned out to be a hole in the exhaust manifold.
would start but idle like crazy then die. after a while wouldn't start.
 
I have had this problem on two separate k10s, caused by two different things. Assuming you have done the useual "service part" checks first like leads, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm etc...

The first was caused by an excessivly weak mixture caused by the second chamber in the carb being seized up.
Turn the small lever connected the the large vaccum diaphram at the front of the carb and look down the second chanber (the one without the choke flap) to see that the butterfly flap at the bottom is moving freely. If this is fine, check the condition of the vaccum lines, if you spot any splits or cracks then it's a simple case of replaceing those pipes.
BUT REMEMBER; some of the vaccum lines have flow restictors in them which you'll need to push out with a screwdriver and insert into the new pipes.

The second was cause by a leaking carb-to-adaptor plate gasket (also called throttle chamber), and a leaking gasket between the underside of the adaptor plate and the top of the manifold itself. The upper gasket allowed coolant and air to be sucked into the manifold, and the lower gasket simply allowed air to be drawn in.
Since you have changed the carb i would recomend changing these gaskets these gaskets if you haven't already.
They cost around a fiver each and are still available from the main nissan dealerships.
Top gasket (Insulator Carbu); 16174-19B00
Bottom gasket (K GSKT - THROT CH); 16174-19B01
 
Back
Top