K11 - Cutting out at junctions

nesty

nesty

Hi All

Last few days been having some issues with my K11.

In Sept 2016. I did the old re-solder of the throttle housing board & up until now my K11 been running perfectly. Back in 2016 the foul running was happening at all speeds. Losing power not accelerating etc

However, this time it’s like at idle. Especially at junctions. Idling lumpy then cutting out and then very difficult to start. Hot or cold. It might be something to do with the really cold weather? Though at normal revs all working fine.

I know when I re-soldered the board it was more of temp fix as I didn’t know what I was really doing. However, I am wondering if I need to do it again more properly. Or if this could be something different?
 
Do you still have the wax stat system? On my old prefacelift the whole wax stat and icv system failed. Giving these symptoms. I removed both systems and I then set the idle with the throttle stop instead.


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Hi
Not sure.
I've disconnected the idle control valve electronic plug in and sprayed with WD40. Started it up seemed to start up better then usual. Though have to monitor it.
 
Personally I wouldn't use wd40. Tends to go sticky and do more harm than good eventually. I'd recommend electrical contact cleaner. Does a way better job.


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RYB said:
Personally I wouldn't use wd40. Tends to go sticky and do more harm than good eventually. I'd recommend electrical contact cleaner. Does a way better job.


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Click to expand...

Sorry meant not the usual WD40, but instead the contact cleaner of the WD40 range. My bad!
 
When you are looking at the throttle body housing (pre facelift). Where the throttle body plate is (where you prise it off to re-solder the board).
There is a plug right in front of it pointing upwards at 11 o' clock angle.
That the one I sprayed earlier. What plug is that. I think I sprayed the wrong one?
 
my 1.3 has started to hunt between 500 and 750 on the rev counter in the last week, it can stall without throttle,, driving is perfect on the motorway and once in 2nd but lights and starting off in 1st can be dodgy, very intermittent though, glad to see a thread with the exact symptoms....
 
My k11 is now doing this quite a bit now, when he needle is just going up to the quarter.
kangerooing and stalling etc.
However once fully warm drives perfecty.
I have the earlier version (non removeable MAF Sensor).
Last Sept I re-solded the Throttle body board. Then I was getting this kangeroooing hot and cold. Once I solded it all ok. Though I kinda rushed it it was a temp fix.
I do think the board might need re-doing and plan to do this asap.
 
Mine has done the same thing. Changed over to a new throttle body after I broke down last Sunday.

It was driving normally then started struggling. Disconnect battery. Remove maf and throttle position sensor and and try to get to where I was going but broken down again after 400 yards. Reconnect throttle sensor and wouldn't rev. Eml came on this time and didn't go out. After fitting new throttle body.

The launch system I have a work couldn't talk to ecu. Tried my mates obd reader and wouldn't connect. Wanting to get datascan but how do I get it on my computer and can i use my old usb to obd2 cable with the 14pin converter in between?

I have a 1.3 in a facelift so it's an old 14 pin connector.
 
ninham said:
Mine has done
Click to expand...

Quote: “Eml came on this time and didn't go out. After fitting new throttle body”.

Quote: “Wont rev” but starts and idles, suggests a lack of fuel and idle fuel supply only present?

NB; ~ do not remove or move the throttle position sensor TPS on either a throttle body as recalibration of its position will be required

Rational conclusion suggests a defective replacement throttle body or something you have done to the various sensor connections has created a DTC & caused the EML fault light to come on immediately after your work?

Therefore may I suggest remedial works that you can be getting on with immediately while waiting for very limited usefulness OBD1 software and interconnections:

1) Resolder repair the original throttle body, refit and test run over several operation cycles in order that the engine management ECU can relearn the parameters of the original throttle body and then for you to reassess your vehicles operational driving issues. Re-soldering is best achieved with the throttle body off the vehicle and the T B horizontal on the bench.

2) Replace fuel filter. Collect its contents into a glass jar to settle out over several hours, to check fuel water content in solution.

3) Cut the old filter open with a hacksaw to further enhance information feedback, to check its contents to get an indication of fuel tank contents contamination.

4) Test spark generation intensity, duration and colour? The following spark intensity adjustable gap test tool together with a few bits of old HT extension wires can be useful for a petrol motoring lifetime!

Reference: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Adjustabl...-Tester-Securely-Avoid-Fire-Tool/321897535730?

NB; The 14 pin OBD1 system is very limited and is consequently of little help to troubleshoot or fault find items # 1, 2, 3 and 4 above without extensive experience and intuitive interpretation.

Best of luck and happy fault finding.
 
Last edited:
Throttle body has been resoldered. Just need to refit and test. After fitting my spare the car has run ok. But light is still on. Everything I connect a obd2 reader to it the light goes out for a while them come on. When driving to my unit the other day everytime I went to rev the engine it flashed on and then off again.

Yes I know the obd1 port isn't going to be much help but will help with logging and such like. Have downloaded datascan but wont connect to the ecu says wrong port for some reason. Have tried updating the driver but no luck.

I'm using a 14 pin to 16pin converter then using my vagcom 16pin to usb. Have I got the wrong cables? (Eml don't come on when cables are connected and ignition is turned on.)

Going to test all the sensors on original throttle body. Now.
 
How to manually flash OBD1 codes (DTC) on the early 14 pin diagnostics data I/O port. Easier & more productive to use search engines then to search MSC.

http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=25893

https://www.micra.org.uk/attachments/pict0249-jpg.11419/

http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid=98763

NB Important; ~ The 14 pin data I/O port seems to be inverted or reversed upside down on some K11vehicles depending on which facelift you have or more likely just how spaced out bored the assembly zombie was?

Important to verify & confirm which way up or inverse reversed is the case in your vehicle to avoid creating an incorrect short circuit possibly toasting forever the engine management ECU!

Details can be confirmed via the Haynes manual & removing the 14 pin I/O port to check & verify the pin out connections corresponds to the circuit diagrams; ~ only 5 or 6 wires connected of the 14 pin outs iirc. DO your research double check & check again before proceeding with this high risk process?

Make your own luck by double checking every step before proceeding.
 
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