How to change the inlet-cam?

[K11-Ozi]

So I put everything back together. Everything went good so far with a little small troubles.

But now the main problem - the car goes like #### :wow:

Think the exhaust cam moved a tooth :wasntme:

The car doesn't pull right and beyond 4500rpm it won't rev any higher.

Looked at this pic and went to put the engine in TDC and....

Mine...

Any ideas?

 

[frank]

ozi, it looks to me like you,ve got 14 chainlinks between the 2 dots, instead of the 10 (on the diag) fwn

 

[K11-Ozi]

How do I fix that?

 

[frank]

How do I fix that?

ozi, you,ve gotta undo a sprocket and shuffle the chain around so that you,ve got the 10, 14 and 22 links between the 3 dot,s on the 3 sprockets (you should,nt need to remove the tensioner btw, just tweak the cams back and forth (with the 22mm spanner) to pull the chain tight and slip the sprocket back on fully)

 

[K11-Ozi]

I just can't get it right :blush: :doh:

First - with chain links did you mean no.1 or no.2?

Cause on my pic the only 14 I counted was no.2

Then I look at the diag you posted and marked it so I can explain everything better...

The dot on the biggest sprocket - marked red - was spot on. The yellow chain link (hope this is right) is in the right spot too. The green spot is also like on the pic but the blue chain link is one link lower :suspect:

So after positioning the lower sprocket like it's on the pic I counted the chain links (no.2 from the first pic) from the green dot to the exhaust-cam sprocket (dot on it) and positioned it so it was 14 no.2s between them. Then mounted the inlet-cam sprocket so that the number of chain links (no.2) between the inlet and exhaust sprocket was 10 and tightened everything (didn't get the next - 22 thou...).

Now when I try to turn the engine by hand it can't make a full revolution. Seems like the valves are hitting the pistons

Then I counted the chain-links (no.1) and it's 26 you said that I should position them 10-14-22 :wow: I don't know how you ment it.

I'm to angry to fint the problem myself or how to do it right.....need help :unclesam:

 

[frank]

sorry ozi, it,s the number of links "inside" the link opposite the dots.
here,s a better diag
http://www.micra.org.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=12571&stc=1&d=1239282351

 

[K11-Ozi]

And here we go again....dunno how I managed this but the chain fell of the lower sprocket.

How can I put it back on cause it won't go :S?

 

[frank]

And here we go again....dunno how I managed this but the chain fell of the lower sprocket.

How can I put it back on cause it won't go :S?

thats supposed to impossible with the little stump sticking out :upside:, i had to cut some of the stump off to change the chain on my old ss

 

[K11-Ozi]

How much bad luck can a person have? I'm going to change the threads name into - how to plumb into every pitfall there is....

So like you said - impossible - I almost managed to put it on but then the stump broke away and plumbed down....again....:wow:

I think it's in the oil sump but I'm not sure. Then I tried to put the chain back on (5 links between) turned the engine and nothing sounded like the stump was doing a mess.

The I don't know what happened (maybe I didn't put it on correctly cause now I'm :down and when the markings came back so I could see them there were 6 links between the dots

I'm done for now. Don't have the will to get the sump back down again and everything else and still the timing isn't the way it's suppose to be....

 

[K11-Ozi]

Me again

Got the "tooth" out (Y)

Didn't finish the car up just tried to get the timing right...

Before

Now

But there is a problem. I put the chain on so the marking where like on the diagram. The "coloured" chain links on the dots...but when I turn the engine couple of times the marks don't match the dots anymore?

 

[frank]

nice one ozi (Y), and yeh, i think thats normal, the idler has got 36 and 23 teeth which means you can advance or retard the cams by small increments by altering the lower chain

 

[K11-Ozi]

Another thing I wanted to ask. The last time I think the tensioner didn't hummm "launch". Cause when I took it apart it was still the same position as I put it in.

Could it be because I tightened it too much?

This Haynes book really doesn't help much btw :wasntme:

 

[frank]

Another thing I wanted to ask. The last time I think the tensioner didn't hummm "launch". Cause when I took it apart it was still the same position as I put it in.

Could it be because I tightened it too much?

This Haynes book really doesn't help much btw :wasntme:

yeh, there,s a ratchet thingy eh, mine have always been "springy" iirc and they,re hydraulic too

 

[K11-Ozi]

Found this on Cisco's Micra files...

Is this right - first you push it in and then turn clockwise so it's held in place?

Then it looks something like this (bad pic cause my PS won't work :glare

Then I must put it in and bolt it on (6-8Nm)?

I don't have this (red thingy) to retain it

But to be honest I don't even need it cause I can put it in without it. So far everything ok?

How does the spring release then so it tensions the chain? Last time I drove only 2km and tightened it by hand (think well over 6-8Nm) and when I took it apart it was stil held in place like here - http://www.shrani.si/f/2O/5R/4nlYCUo1/271411.jpg :suspect:

Don't want to make the same mistake again....

 

[frank]

ozi, i think the spring just helps keep the slack out of the chain while the engine starts up (ie, no oil pressure), is,nt there a little peg that holds it together ( inside the square) while you bolt the tentioner on ?

 

[K11-Ozi]

Looked at the tensioner more precisely and found what was causing my problems.

Then I put the tensioner back in and pushed the upper side down so the springs released.

The car is back together runs nice - 5k rpm+ is now alfa and omega of this engine (Y)

But the chain is quite loud now. It was a bit loud before but now you can hear it if you stand outside the car :wasntme:but doesn't bother me hehe

Got to get the 2 bolt for the exhaust cause it's not a tight fit now....

Did a 3-4km run only....tommorow I have to put the front of the car back together and do some other things - think the ignition/timing needs some tweaking

So...so far so good - hope that's that!

Thx again frank (Y)

 

[frank]

well done ozi (Y)
5k+ lol, i did say one of geoff,s cams would be a little wild for a 1.0
best block that rev limiter hole eh, my 1.0 engine (piper cams and exhaust mods) was still pulling strongly at 8k

 

[K11-Ozi]

The rev limiter is already gone

That was the first mod I did along with the rev-counter and lowering the car

The next stop is the removal of the first cat and ignition timing....any suggestions with the ignition?

 

[frank]

The next stop is the removal of the first cat and ignition timing....any suggestions with the ignition?

i just advance it till it makes the engine feel harsh (you can feel it inside while driving) then back it off a bit
and de-2nd cat it, then cut open and weld the manifold like mine (i,ll send you the fillet piece )

 

[K11-Ozi]

Uff I'm not a good welder. In fact I only welded like 2-3 times in my life and at home I got the worst welding maschine ever - the prehistoric one

Advance hum - if you look at the dizzy so that it is in front of you. Clockwise or counterclockwise?

2nd decat will follow soon. First I have put the front of the car back together lol

Then the other mods will come hehe

 

[frank]

Advance hum - if you look at the dizzy so that it is in front of you. Clockwise or counterclockwise?

clockwise ozi, against the rotation of the engine, to spark earlier
and the 1st cat is,nt the bottleneck imo, a 1.4 cat is a finer mesh (smaller pores) and is twice as deep as your cat but flows the 85hp exhaust gasses ok