Got me a K11!

Hi all

Bought myself my first car at the weekend, it's a 5 door 1.3 GX. Almost everything works, just a few minor/common faults to sort, like the crossmember has some rust (but not too bad), the fan speed only works on 4, return spring broken on the gear lever etc.

Sorry to be "that noob" who shows up looking for help, but I have a few questions I can't find answers to:
  • Are the crossmember reinforcing bars on Ebay a decent option, or should I source a proper replacement and get it welded in? (The crossmember isn't as bad as another I compared it to but at some point it wants doing)
  • Does anyone have experience with the sunroof glass being out of line with the hole? The driver side edge is about 5mm too far back and it's stopping the sunroof going down and back.
Been through the buyers guide here, seems like I got a good one to me. Drives great. :)
 
hi muel, the sunroof probably needs lubing and free-ing off, you might need to drop the headlining down tho
 
Hiya Muel,

the sunroof glass is bolted to the mechanism by 4 torx bolts

k550i-1332-jpg.31481
k550i-1331-jpg.31480


unclip the inner plastic cover to expose the bolts

k550i-1304-jpg.31479


what I'd suggest is:
- remove the inner plastic cover
- unbolt the glass and remove
- check both left/right mechanisms are aligned in exactly the same locked position and tilt angle.

k550i-1317-jpg.31477


if not, you'll have to remove the winding handle cog to release the two cable operated runners and adjust the cable till both mechanisms aligned, then refit the handle.

- with both mechanisms aligned, fit the glass back in the hole, loosely fit the bolts back on
- line up the glass flush with the roof line then tighten the bolts snug

link to overhauling the sunroof
https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-5#post-398750
 
Wow lots of information there, cheers that's great. :)

Can it be done without removing the headlining?

Looks like it will be worth replacing the seal at the same time, mine is all green and scuzzy.

no probs.

for just removing the glass, yep can leave the lining in.

when the foam seal on mine was crusty, I just scraped the crust off. never replaced it before.
 
no probs.

for just removing the glass, yep can leave the lining in.

when the foam seal on mine was crusty, I just scraped the crust off. never replaced it before.
Cool cheers, will give it a go on Sat if I have time. First port of call is to get it up on some axle stands for the first time to have a proper look underneath!
 
Wish I'd read that before I bought it haha, but I'll make that the first list I go through.

Thanks for all your help dude I really appreciate it.
 
Is there a guide anywhere for what to do first after buying a K11? So far I've got:
  • Take steps to slow further rusting to the crossmember - clean it up and paint it with something suitable, also saw someone suggest drying thoroughly with a heat gun and filling with builders foam.
  • Extend the sunroof/ariel drain tubes out the bottom of the sills (spotted in pollyp's build log :p)
  • Get the wheels off and thoroughly check round the car, paying close attention to corrosion, rust and perished bushes
 
very first thing to do after buying a used car is to give it a full service n check over
Already had a look at the fluid levels, filters and the oil and it clearly had a service very recently. They look new haha. Will give it a full check over on Saturday when I can get it in my Dad's workshop and pull the plugs to see if they were replaced but oil and filters were definitely done recently.

Coolant works as the temp dial never goes over about half way, but it appears to be some form of muddy ditch water so will get that swapped soon.

Looks like there's about a pint of oil on the back/underside of the engine but it's not obviously leaking from anywhere and hasn't consumed any oil at all since I bought it, doesn't smoke at all even when cold and idles/fast idles smoothly. It's fresh, new oil as well so it looks like the garage monkey who serviced it managed to pour a load down the back of the engine when they were filling it up. Gonna have fun cleaning that up!

What about first mods/jobs though? Are there any bushes/bearings I should check first? From reading your blog (so far) it sounds like the rear engine mount might have perished because it can be a little tricky getting into 1st and 2nd gear at low revs.
 
Service
- remove and re-oil inside ur clutch cable with thin oil to keep them sliding smoothly
- reinforce clutch cable end pin
- adjust the clutch cable thumbscrew till the bite points 1/2 way so it fully disengages.
- then overhaul the gear selector bushes, they commonly dry up > rust & seize > wear loose > feels stiff or loose, hard to select 1st 2nd and vibrates in 5th.
can dismantle/clean/regrease, or replace whole linkage or upgrade to ball bearing links.
- wirebrush the white oxide in the dizzy cap
- check spark gap
- synchronise ignition timing with ECU
- check warm cylinder compression
- check valve clearances
- clean & service the TB idle control valve
- overhaul the brake caliper slide pins & pad clips
- overhaul drum brake self adjuster
- remove & get injectors cleaned by pro
- remove & check thermostat
- remove & check coolant sensor resistances
- align wheels

Mods
- disable TB coolant line
- teflon insulating inlet manifold spacer
- enlarge airbox inlet
- cold air plumbing
- weld short shifter
- stiffen exhaust hangers
- stiffen rear engine mount with rubber or bodyfiller
- colour coded bumpers & handles

other mods beyond this begins to get expensive
 
This guard fell off on the way to the workshop, looks to me like it's off the exhaust middle box?

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Found a couple of issues, there's a blown CV boot and there's only a small amount of filth coated grease surrounding it, so will replace the joint as well just to be safe. Also was washing the car earlier and had to use buckets to rinse as I live in a flat and there's no outside tap, and looks like I overflowed the sunroof channels as it poured down the inside of the head lining. >_<

Live and learn...
 
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