gearbox woes

boyracergt

Ex. Club Member
swaped my 4speed the other week for one from a ma12 and it seems to accelerate a lot better over 50 then the old one are the ratios a lot diffrent?

the reason i changed the 4spped out was the whining and the desire for 5th. unfortunatley i got scammed and the gearbox ive got now is worse.

it whirs when in neutral (clutch down and no noise) it whines and vibrates (the dash and back windows rattle now) over 3000rpm, sometimes its hard to get into 1st/2nd, when turning rounabouts theres more noise and when flooring it sometimes pulls right? also when its col theres a loud scraping noise coming from it and takes 5mins to go :(

basiclly does anyone know how much its going to cost to rebuild, my tutor at college says i could replace the bearings at college, but in haynes it says you need collars to set up the pre-load?

any ideas cheers
 
you,re probably talking £300+ to get it re-conned :eek:, and the bearings are,nt "off the shelf jobbies" if you wanted diy it.
and i think the preload is for the diff bearings (you adjust the play to zero, then adjust some more to get the preload)
and pre98 1.0 g/box ftw ;)
 
Is everything alined properly? The whirr in neutral might mean that there's something wrong with release bearing. On the second thought, it's probably the bearings. I've replaced them, it's not so difficult task. No need for collars, but you need to dismantle the selection rods (I don't know if this is the right expression in English), from that on it's only about applying some force.

The problem with rods is that you need to aline them all and then remove the rod that controls the reverse gear, then the one next to it and so on. It's done this way because there is a sistem of ellipsoids and pins which block the rods. Also you'll need large tweezers or a magnet to remove this ellipsoids, also to insert them back latter.

When removing the shafts, there are lock plates (clips) that you need to remove. They're inside the "outside casing" (again I don't know if this is right expression). When the lock plates are released you just pull out the shaft. To release the bearing you first need to press two retaining washers and then remove the lock plate. Usually the bearings can be removed by hand if not you need an adequate tool.
 
Always a risk buying second hand boxes, which is what i always write on here. Does anyone listen?

Buy a reconditioned box, or get yours fixed. It pays to pay out more to start with and avoid all these hassles, and you know it's going to work, and have a guarantee if it does go wrong.
 
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