Gearbox Out

M

MrRee

Guest
Hi all ..... it's time I took the Gearbox out of the wifes Micra.

Looking through the Haynes manual it seems quite involved - they do go over the top with what you should do .... it says (for example) remove starter motor - is that necessary? Also take Exhaust off, again ... is that strictly needed?

Any sensible step-by-step guides or would I be better off sticking with the Haynes step-by-step?
 
Manual ..... problem somewhere along the line.

Seems like it is selecting 2 gears at once (so a Nissan Mechanic has said).

So, thought I would drop it and have a look ......

I have a secondhand one in mind - if it's still there
 
Dropping the gearbox in a K11 is actually really easy. its not really a tight operation at all. You just need a good socket set, some jack stands, good jack and some common sense. Oh and some big pry/lever bars to wiggle the gearbox and engine apart. ALso a pipe extension and breaker bar to undo the hubnuts.
 
Drveshafts need to come out of the Hub then? I was hoping to loosen off enough to just pull out of box.
 
you don't need to remove the exhaust, and the starter is easy to remove, leave the cables attatched to it, remove the two bolts and it stays out of the way up on the chassis/brake pipe.
also, instead of undoing the clutch cable, just undo the two bolts into the box on the black cable bracket, then you can just unhook the cable.
 
Thanks for all the replies and help.

I got the driveshafts out the gearbox last night - all I did was undo the 2 pinchbolts on the bottom of the strut and there was enough 'give' to pull the shafts out ............. worth noting if you ever need to do it!!! Simplicity itself!!

No disturbing any balljoint - no undoing the hub nut - a very handy tip!

Tonight I will try and seperate the box from the engine - anyone any idea how heavy the box is? I will have a jack under it - but how heavy is it??
 
i think most of us know about undoing just the strut to remove the shafts. but thanks anyway for pointing it out to people who don't know.
not sure on the actual weight of the box, but i took mine out by myself, but needed a lift from the top to get it back in. so not excessively heavy. it's easily moved around by one person.
hope that helps.
 
Well - EVENTUALLY got the gearbox out .... phew, push' pull, heave, yank ..

Could someone tell me if the dowels stay in the engine or in the gearbox or one of each in each side?

If I split the box will anything fall out??
 
the dowels do come out with the box sometimes, but should be put back in the block before refitting.
if you split the box, nothing should fall out, other than oil. but i think it's tricky to line up both shafts in the box into their bearing runners when re-building it. but i didn't give it too much time as i was throwing mine away.
hope this helps.
 
Thanks, latest update:-

Took Box to a Transmission Specialists, he kindly took it apart in front of me - within 5 minutes it was in bits all over his bench.

Verdict, smashed up Pinion Gear Bearing ..... remarkably, the gears are fine!

He is going to put a new bearing in, new oil feed and re-assemble ... he is not offereing any warranty as it's a repaired box not a reconditioned one.

But, there we go - I'll get it all back together with a new clutch next weekend, then sell it ...... I have just bought the wife another car to get around in and she loves it so much she wants to keep it (she never really took to the Micra ... but I think the Micra is great!)

So, next weekend there will be a Micra Muzic on the market ..........

Maybe you lot could help - the rear engine mount ... it is attached to the Gearbox with 3 bolts.

I left the mounting in the car - and undone the 3 bolts ... BUT, they were really tough to reach.

I can imagine all kinds of trouble trying to line the bolts up and tighten them on gearbox re-assembly ... I have the engine supported.

Question - can I take the rear mount off the car body and bolt it to the gearbox ... then assemble box to engine? Anyone done it, anyone any tip?
 
when you put the gearbox back in get in as many bolts as you can but dont tighten them untill all of the bolts are in, this way you wont have any problems like wiggling the box around to line up the bolt holes etc
 
Cheers, Fordy - yes, I know - but, just getting the rear engine mount bracket bolted up to the box is going to be tough.

I guess I will do it ............
 
it's just a case of lifting the rear of the box up and you'll see the holes line up. i did it by laying under the car and pushing it up myself. it's easier with a jack, but it makes it harder to work with it in the way.
 
Will be the end of the week before it all goes back together - then it will be sold.
 
OK, this is driving me nuts!!

Trying to get the gearbox back!!

Just spent 2 hours and got NOWHERE!!!!

Any hints? Does the spline engage before the dowels?

How accurate does the clutch splines have to be? I used a home made tool to centralise it ...... but I suppose there is some 'give'?
 
Thanks Swiper .... I actually made up my own alignment tool - I have a good eye anyway.

Not sure if it is 100% dead centre but didn't think it was that crucial as long as it was within a mm or so?

I had a thought - loosen off the clutch cover .... align gearbox .... lift off gearbox and tighten clutch cover plate?? Then it just has to be lined up as the box has lined it up for you.

What do you think?
 
MrRee said:
Thanks Swiper .... I actually made up my own alignment tool - I have a good eye anyway.

Not sure if it is 100% dead centre but didn't think it was that crucial as long as it was within a mm or so?

I had a thought - loosen off the clutch cover .... align gearbox .... lift off gearbox and tighten clutch cover plate?? Then it just has to be lined up as the box has lined it up for you.

What do you think?
Click to expand...

i don't think it'd work too well that way, cos surely unless you remove box again dead straight, you'd move friction plate again.
the box should go onto the splines even it is out a bit, but the box won't line up to the engine properly. have you tried the friction plate fits onto the slines before fitting?
honestly for the sake of a tenner just buy an alignment tool, it'll save alot of headache and guessing. then maybe package it back up and get a refund ;).
 
Ignore that daft thought!! Ha Ha! Lifting the box off would move it anyway - I'm being daft.

Anyway, last night after 2 hours of swearing and huffing and puffing I finally got it on!!

I did take the clutch off and checked that it went onto the splines and it does, but its bloody tight - hence the hassle I'm having!

Today I'll replace all the mounting bolts and that damned rear engine mount thats going to give me grief!

Looking goooooood .......... thanks for the helpful tips Swiper, much appreciated!
 
MrRee said:
thanks for the helpful tips Swiper, much appreciated!
Click to expand...

not a problem, always willing to help if i can. :D

make sure the bolts you replace are the same length as the originals, or you could run into more trouble :)

the rear mount isn't that hard really, ust put the front mount on and bolt the box up to the block. then just (lol, just i say!!!) lift the box up on the diff and the holes should line up easy. ;)
 
I'm putting all the bolts back exactly where I took them out ....... so, should be absolutely ok.
-------------------------------------------

Just put it all back on - next job getting all the auxillary bits back on - fill with oil and start her up.

What should I ask for a P Reg. Nissan Micra 1.0Litre with 58,000miles on? New Clutch, Re-Built Gearbox, new Tyres all round, MOT and Tax till end May 2007? I reckon about £995?

need to shift it - 4 cars in the family is just silly .....
 
i cannot remove the rear engine mount / gearbox mount, and also in the haynes it states that you can make up a threaded rod to hold the engine up.... bu where does it thread through? theres no holes in the brace. lol

and also. egherm.......i may or may not have rounded the rear engine mounting bolts off....., what the hell am i supposed to do now. ive got saturday to put it right...... then sunday im off to bolton, (to visit 59bhp) and then its ripspeed donnt on my next weekend off... GRRRRRR
 
don't worry about the engine dropping, it's easy to hold the engine/box up to remove and replace the bolts,
have you tried using a 6 sided 14mm socket on the bolts if you have tried a 12 sided one?, it'll have more to grip on.
there's 3 bolts the hold the mount bracket on, one into the engine block and two into the diff.
 
yeps..... i used a big ass 24" breaker bar and a 6 sided impact socket.....got the little begger off...lol

erm, now all i need to do is jimmy it off the engine.... not as easy as it sounds...
 
all done, and back in again.......

filled it up with oil.......and selected first gear testing the new clutch......yep everythings working ok...





get out....


biiiig puddle of oil all over the driveway... GRRRRRRRRRRR


the oil was spewing from the output (where the drivehsaft seats in) on the passenger side..... begger it.....!!!

so a quick shuvv and it went back in again..... ill put some more oil in tomorow and try it with the wheels on the floor..... should stop the drivehsafts from popping out..lol


thanks dudes
 
if needed, new driveshaft oil seals are around £5 each from nissan, we had to do one for richmicratwista the day before the matlock meet.
 
naah tis ok now, it was just that i had the car off the ground so the diveshafts were popping out. theyre ok now though no leaks....
 
antony_aiken said:
naah tis ok now, it was just that i had the car off the ground so the diveshafts were popping out. theyre ok now though no leaks....
Click to expand...

driveshafts shouldnt be coming out if the car is raised off the floor,

sounds to me the inner cv joint clip isnt on, or you didnt push it in far enough,

lift it again to see if they come out if so put a new clip on it
 
did 300 miles yesterday to see 59bhp, and its perfectly fine now.... must have been me,

oh and my super s is doing 53mpg........ all the way to bolton from grimsby and back again, (with 4 hrs of getting lost) and all on 3/4's tank..
 

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