Engine upgrade for 1993 k11
- Thread starter ferris
- Start date
The 1.4 motor is a coilpac engine Ferris so you would be looking at changing looms / sensors / ecu etc ... you could pair the bottom end of the 1.4 (CGA3) to a 1.3 (CG13) head to get a 1311cc engine (if i remember right)
The 1.6 engines were only cast iron so any slight power gain from them goes out the window with weight.
I'd honestly just go with a decent running 1.3 as your easiest option with a few tweaks
frank
Club Member
1311 is the CGA crank in 1.0 or 1.3 block eh paul
1311 is the CGA crank in 1.0 or 1.3 block eh paul
Ah cheers Frank what's the cc on the CGA3 short block with CG head?
Edit: double post
frank
Club Member
1348 mate
1348 mate
Awesome ta Frank... That's always tempted me, whether the extra cc would make much difference I don't know
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
From reading a 1.6 from an almera (GA16) will fit one of 2 ways:
1.Cut a small recess into the chassis to clear water pump and relocate an engine mount, which weakens chassis (it's my plan, but have an aerospace coded welder friend doing that bit for me so I've got a bit of an exception)
2.Relocate all engine and GB mounts and create custom driveshafts (which if you're going to do you'd be best off using the 1.6 gearbox which requires no mods I know of to fit)
The above is also true for the 1.4 engine.
Option 1 is usually a bit of a bodge and not recomended, if you choose route 2 you might as well do an SR20 swap but there will always be loads of fabrication involved...
With regards to the 1.6 being a waste of time because of its extra weight, it only weighs circa 30-40kg more, and you will get around 105hp so thats a 30hp boost with only 40 extra kg, plus a lot more low down grunt.
1.Cut a small recess into the chassis to clear water pump and relocate an engine mount, which weakens chassis (it's my plan, but have an aerospace coded welder friend doing that bit for me so I've got a bit of an exception)
2.Relocate all engine and GB mounts and create custom driveshafts (which if you're going to do you'd be best off using the 1.6 gearbox which requires no mods I know of to fit)
The above is also true for the 1.4 engine.
Option 1 is usually a bit of a bodge and not recomended, if you choose route 2 you might as well do an SR20 swap but there will always be loads of fabrication involved...
With regards to the 1.6 being a waste of time because of its extra weight, it only weighs circa 30-40kg more, and you will get around 105hp so thats a 30hp boost with only 40 extra kg, plus a lot more low down grunt.
frank
Club Member
or put another way,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the stock 99hp is only 14hp more than the CGA3, and it will understeer like a boat
or put another way,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the stock 99hp is only 14hp more than the CGA3, and it will understeer like a boat
+1
A CGA3 with an exhaust system bolted on will put that out WITHOUT tuning and you wont have to weld or chop anything.
Each to their own though. If we all did everything the same, some would consider that boring.
frank
Club Member
i know, my displacement is doubled @ 1 bar of boost
Enuo
Glorified Electrician
For 1 bar boost:
PV=nRT
Assume nRT = constant (it's not or we wouldn't need intercoolers, but for the purposes of the maths it is)
How much pressure is needed to halve the space the air takes up (and thus double the effective displacement)?
P[1]xV[1]=P[2]xV[2] where P[1] is atmospheric pressure (~1bar) and P[2] is the pressure required to fit the air into half the space.
but also
V[1]/2=V[2] because we want the same gas to fill half the space. This can be put into the above formula to give:
P[1]xV[1]=P[2]x(V[1]/2) or
P[1]xV[1]=P[2]xV[1]/2 multiply both sides by 2:
2P[1]xV[1]=P[2]xV[1] divide both sides by V[1]
2P[1]=P[2]
P[1] = 1 bar
P[2] = 2 bar
1 bar of boost is 1 bar of GAUGE pressure, absolute pressure ignores atmospheric pressure, so 1 bar gauge pressure is 2 bar absolute.
Therefore, Frank is correct, although it is EFFECTIVELY doubling the displacement not actually doubling it.
Also, increasing RPM raises the HP figure, but power is calculated, torque is measured and if you want more torque, boost or displacement is the way to go.
PV=nRT
Assume nRT = constant (it's not or we wouldn't need intercoolers, but for the purposes of the maths it is)
How much pressure is needed to halve the space the air takes up (and thus double the effective displacement)?
P[1]xV[1]=P[2]xV[2] where P[1] is atmospheric pressure (~1bar) and P[2] is the pressure required to fit the air into half the space.
but also
V[1]/2=V[2] because we want the same gas to fill half the space. This can be put into the above formula to give:
P[1]xV[1]=P[2]x(V[1]/2) or
P[1]xV[1]=P[2]xV[1]/2 multiply both sides by 2:
2P[1]xV[1]=P[2]xV[1] divide both sides by V[1]
2P[1]=P[2]
P[1] = 1 bar
P[2] = 2 bar
1 bar of boost is 1 bar of GAUGE pressure, absolute pressure ignores atmospheric pressure, so 1 bar gauge pressure is 2 bar absolute.
Therefore, Frank is correct, although it is EFFECTIVELY doubling the displacement not actually doubling it.
Also, increasing RPM raises the HP figure, but power is calculated, torque is measured and if you want more torque, boost or displacement is the way to go.
frank
Club Member
yeh i know, doubled the power tooVolumetric efficiency
