Door Trim Clips and boot interior lining clips

This is something I notice while working on rear cam other day, broken clips that ment to attach the black plastic that stops the paint work being scratched when loading items not sure the exact name anyways 2 of these seem to have been broken from when i got the car.
just thought this might be helpful to someone as they are a correct part and I know we could just drill the area out and add other types of pop clips to affix the item.
and bonus item before I forget this makes my pressure washer work with the old karcher wand so 15 mm to 14 mm conversion 22mm both ends and quick connect solves my problem here
 

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Front bumper metal clips.
Not sure the exact name for these but while attempting a removal they seem to be past best and want replacing in order to reinstall once removed.
Does anyone know what the name is for these or where I can get some.
Image attached shows they connect bumper at the ends under wheel arches.
 

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I looked and it's probably best to buy a bulk packet only really need two they might come in handy later tho since they work with stoves.
 
The pressure washer developed a leak on testing after part disintegrated.
This being the bit the gun hose screws into at machine.
Plan is flatten it back try again.
Insert o ring first tho and try.
Might work, have ordered what seems like an identical with another name brand.
The upright design is good.
Just want to blast the muck away from the drive.
 
Make sure all fittings and seals fit, as the pressure will blow it apart otherwise. The chimney nuts are best bought in bulk, as the front bumper uses them as well as other areas, I change them every time I come accross them, and renew the screws or bolts with stainless steel replacements. (y)
 
The file worked flattend it down and I then had to add the o ring I got a box assorted so that was handy.
No more dripping and working great again.
Was dripping at first without the o ring and couldn't originally see where because the quick connect fitting blocks the view.
Having a spare one isn't really a bad thing because I have been through two already the spare being a 4th washer..
 
I am glad things worked out, its great to bring things back upto working condition, a bit like keeping the micra's on the road! I am going to tinker with an" infinity motor" and see if it works for me, only untill winter is over.:unsure:
 
For me it's just waiting for the winter to pass. As I'm not that keen working in the cold on the car.
Might make for alot more work to be done at same time but it will be more enjoyable.
While I'm not working on the car, I have been working toward my next driving test this seems to be going good. Once I pass I'm going to try and get into some apprenticeship for motor vehicles if that is possible as this would be benificial to my project and what I'm able to do with it next.
Got two different places of interest. For that one being a minor test centre and the other being a larger company who seem to offer a decent training programme.
 
Having a practical background will help alot when you go for a job, I grew up in the bike racing padocks, so learned a lot about engines and hydraulics etc, this leapfroged me into a top engineering post later. keep up the good work, take alook at this which I am going to try soon.
:
 
That looks like something interesting I think I have seen something similar using washing machine motors.
An alternator would be more easy to work with tho and a decent size can produce quite a current.
Probably alot lighter than a generator.
The down side with those are most often a low power output.
I think the one I was using was able to power a 1200w circular saw and it was cutting out but cut a few posts.
When hooking a hoover or lawn mower it was unable to deliver.
The result was a dead generator that would not start up.
After a few searches I worked out that it was not the spark plug or coil but the stator coil or ignition coil had gone bad.
So eventually after a few head scratching moments it does run once again but still is in need of a new filter box.
The idea of what it can run on always has my interest and the best thing I have seen is one that can run with a gas instead of petrol.

Being able to make that run again after some said generator genius told me it needed a full overhaul of the tappets I think was quite funny because I sort of knew it had not run many hours at all from new.
I guess my take away from this was that we should count how many hours it has run to enable the knowledge of what may wear out in a set time.
And that when using one we should at best let the thing run till warm before power is drawn from the unit.
The last thing being we always need the bigger engine if we want to run a large item such as a lawn mower or hoover.
I guess it was worth experimentation tho because it could run a 1200w saw and that was 400w over its limited ratings.
Probably not an ideal long term but showed when the unit was going to struggle above or near to.
The saw looked much more heavy duty than that of a mower or hoover.
The goal we wanted to achieve was to try and get it to boil a kettle.
No chance tho have to get one of those travel ones with a tiny voltage that may boil 1 cup.
 
Its all about modifying an original idea (originally thought of by Nicola Tesla!) I think a high speed high torque 12v motor with two pulleys attached and then connected to one small alternator to power the motor, and then the motor will then power the 220v large Alternator with no draw which will be full output, I am looking for around 5Kw output so will let you know. :unsure:
 
Wind is a good source for power.
The one thing we seem to get such a great deal of. An alternator can be used in this way. Have to keep tabs on temps and wind speed to avoid burning out the motor.
Been looking at solar panels at something like 150w each. We definitely get some amount of wind in the north of England.
The thing I've most wanted to build is power wall with ion batteries.
Would be an amount of soldering or spot welds would be better.

Good luck with the 5 kW I will be happy with something with 12v or maybe 24v to start with so possibly to run a work light or to be able to recharge a car or work tool battery.
 
having uncoupled the workshop from mains electric, and replaced by solar power, I can advice you to use quality solar panels and mppt charging module, which are used in low sunlight/cloudy countries (Marine grade) I have a voltronic 30amp unit which charges the two 135amp leisure batteries and also an additional terminal to trickle charge the starter battery on the car. low iron content on the protective glass covering the solar panels is also recommended. as a rule of thumb 150w solar panel will need 15amp solar controller. If you require wind to back up the system then a hybrid controller is needed to control both.
 
Rear light cluster sealing foam.
Does anyone know what thickness this foam might be.
As far as I know when I remove the near side it was missing.
I could just get a replacement light but would prefer to make my own if possible.
After looking at some images that actually have some on them it looks thick.
I was thinking a bit of inner tube maybe but it looks more than double that.
Don't fancy buying a whole light just for a bit of foam that is probably dried out and cracked or torn already.

Will be testing to find the root of what's letting water in soon.
 
Thanks that's helpful and might be useful for other area's
Will get some soon as it's bit of a nightmare knowing water is getting inside.
 
That arrived really quickly got a spare box cause it might be nice to do an extra layer around doors will see how it goes.
Should work on the lights.
I heard that this is the most common place for water to get inside the boot but I won't rule out the door handle or rubber seals just yet.
Gonna take photo tomorrow to show how much is getting in.
Last time I would say it was well over a cup or two full so possibly 1 liter at a rough guess.
Silicone is something mentioned that is used for this type of problem.
I don't have any so will just take my time and see what happens.
 
Okay looked at boot and lid again.
Its not looking like headlight this time.
I'm tracing back to the handle or plate attachment areas.

As I can see some water on the latch recessed part.
This was not visible last time but may have evaporated.
 

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Okay today have just checked again and confirmed the water ingresion is from the handle at the top.
Funny thing is today the well is dry but I could see wet at the bottom of the weather strip on the door above also.
Directly above the handle plastic on the outside is not flat to the body as I would expect it to be.
I've ordered some silicone sealant so it should be fixed shortly.
Not sure why it's dry as the boot has been facing towards the wind and rain all week.
 
Forgot to add I went with the D type sealing strip and am thinking I might use this around the driver and passenger doors and if enough the boot as well.
Its not that expensive to buy more for other area's that may benifit from a bit of this for sound damping and a better seal from the weather.
Just got some silicone seal but was wondering where exactly I might need to seal the handle plastic or whole area up.
From the outside it looks to be just the curved part at top.
Gonne have to remove it tho as I don't recall how the switch part fitted exactly meaning where gaps or places the water enters.
I'm pretty sure tho that if I just fill the curved part it will probably still make its way past.
Definitely don't want to bugger up the switch and have to replace it again that's for sure.
Also the Kyo paint arrive I just got one tin hopefully this will match my paint code alttle closer than the wheel silver did when I patched the spots awhile back.
 
Just got finished with the handle all seems to have sealed well.
Had a go with some of the foam seal on the drivers door seems to make it hard to close though.
I'm only using a single layer.
Thought this would not effect the closing of the door. Maybe it's not the best placement or it's clashing in one area.
Can always pull it back off and cut it.
I'm going from highest up and round to the bottom sill towards the front then back over.
The handle I sealed right round took a bit of time to get it filled and cleaned up didn't make much mess so that's good.
Will keep checking to see if it stops the drops at bottom was no water in boot so that's a relief for me.
 
Just had another go with the sealing strips on both the front doors.
Adjustment was needed eventually I decided nearer to the window with a space in between so it's got a nice air gap.
Does not span the whole door just the tops down to about half way.
This should allow any rain to roll off where it needs to.
The second strip covers the metal when door closes giving a nicer overall look to the door from a driver and passengers point of view.
Not sure if that one actually stops drafts or anything but it does look tidy.
I'm happy with this so far and may grab a couple more strips for the rear.
It was still sticky after removal and worked still so that's nice.
I'm happy with this so far will take a photo of later how it looks when the doors closed from inside.
 
This is what I used the strips for it's got about a cm gap in between so that should make it 3 layers.
Its not perfectly straight so can still see some of the paint of the door but it hades most of it and looks tidy.
Forgot to show the other day.
Only problem I can see Is the ends on passenger door came off abit.
 

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Thought I would try replacing the wiper linkages since the wipers don't run very nice.
I have not had a look at the linkages yet but suspect this might be why they not as quiet as they should be.
Will have to see they are a common fault item so I expect them to be worn.
 
Okay changed them out and noticed the nearest link to the motor has a rubber boot missing.
Its all back together now not really much see.
Anyways I'm now looking for a rubber boot to fit on this area I think it's a dust boot so probably universal.
They are much quieter and after trying them I had to slight adjustment to its seating position on passenger side.
The dust boot being missing I think was where the noise I was hearing was coming from.
After removing the old grease and regreasing them they are much smoother and no jump or unwanted sounds.
Takes a while to work out what to do but managed to click the joints in with a hand clamp.
 
Here is what part I found to be missing, have tried searching for different type of dust boots, wiper linkage rubber dust boot ect and not finding anything apart from droplink boot covers. These may work but unsure if size or shape would fit.
Does anyone know the proper name for these.
I think it must have been damaged at some point and removed or its just disintegrated over time.
 

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Something like this may work after all it only ment to prevent dust and dirt getting in the joint.
These are not that expensive and shouldn't cause an issue.
Would prefer the proper ones but I'm sure that's going to be not cheap as these.
Only question is will they fit and prevent the joint from drying up again.

They arrived today and are a bit small so it will have to be double the size I thought 10mm would be fine but it seems to be the whole size and not just the centre my bad on that. Possibly I need some that are more 30mm.
This time I will try a couple sizes and just see what fits best since I only require one.
 

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Have gotten some large ones now they should be a better fit also they look as though they might be a nice fit for the bung holes on the front cross bar under bonnet.
Edit:- they don't fit as are but might when the lip is cut out.
 
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