Battery options

CMF_Alex_B

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Well, my battery isn't holding charge for long, so i've been looking around at dry cell/options, to mount under passenger seat and free up engine bay room. I know cisco and 2 have/had the Odyssey PC680 which is 245CCA > have you guys had trouble starting on cold mornings, any regrets? however the best price i can find here in qld is $269AUD which is kinda abit too much $200 would be okay
. i've been thinking about the small 500 i think it only has 200CCA though, as it dosn't get all that cold on the coast in winter. Are ther any other brands or options avail in australia that i should take a look at?

thanks all,

Alex

Ps. thee ia a US eBay member selling the PC 680 at $72USD however postage too aus is $89USD / $97USD tiwht tracking which brings the price to around $220AUD, kinda not worth the hassel
 

CMF_Ghetto Micra

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you cant just run a 2nd battery as easy as that, you'll blow sh1t up.. it needs to be regulated and isnt worth the weight.

get yourself a small odyssey, optima, or something decent from your local auto shop. I got a nice sealed (not servicable) battery for about $100, forget the brand but it's neat...

I once had an odyssey, for some reason it didnt last long and was a VERY heavy battery...
 

cisco

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Keen to know what brand battery you found ghetto.

If I could have found an odyssey-style setup for $100, I would have jumped at it! The odyssey is heavy despite its small size, and also expensive.
 

cisco

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That's a good price. Mine was a rip off. $240 or some rubbish I think.
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Cheers, thats fantastic! heh, i see their ad everytime i check the mx-5 forums, lol. Will chase up local autobarn on monday who said $200 + $25 Freight, they didn't seem to sure or cluey though when i asked. hey hows the micra going dom, havn't seen you around the forums much of late.

thanks again,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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Okay, heres a comparison:

....Odyssey PC680|Deka ETX20L......
..........245CCA | 270CCA..........
..........370HCA | 680HCA*.........
* we tested in-store at room temperature, i was very impressed.

............16Ah | 18Ah............

.......L = 183mm | L = 175mm ......
........W = 78mm | w = 87mm........
.......H = 187mm | H = 155mm.......

...........6.6Kg | 7.2Kg...........

........RRP $297 | RRP $195........

Best price found for item actually IN STOCK (didn't end up calling mx5mania after finding Deka.

............$250 | $180............

CCA = Cold Cranking Amps, meaning amperage at 0°F (-17.8°C)
HCA = Hot Cranking Amps, meaning apmerage at 80°F (27°C)

Whislt calling around i had two stores comment that they were avoiding Odyssey because of issues with warranty claims. Also the Aust supplier for Odyssey could not give a date or estimate for when they will get more PC680's in stock :(

hope this is a help too members in the future,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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oh, i got mine from my local Battery World store @ $180.

also, cisco and others, the guy there showed me a nifty little fitting to take your positive cable through the firewall. Need to cut a hole and it kinda clamps on each side (insulated) with a stud running through adn nuts on each side. Will post a pic of it, he should have some by Wednesday,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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i'll be busy making up a post rail for the engine bay and a nice alloy brace/clamp up over nex few days, haha so long since last mods :p. They also have plastic risers for the batteries too sit on if you want it to go in the std engine battery try also,

Alex
 

CMF_Alex_B

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tony, sizes are posted earlier, don't have an odyssey to put beside sorry, but i might do a 3d wireframe comparison image. battery was relocated last week, blimey is there some room available when its out along with its tray, i can see my gearbox, awesome access to clutch cable and engine mounts. i used no 2 size cable and had fittings put on by the shop i got it from, he did an awesome neat job, his abit of a perfectionist (like myself) which is good, no dodgey > ahh this will be right mate rubbish. have put a temp pod filter on her in place of battery and need to make up a cheap low effort heatsheild/bracket arrangement to secure the filter. after 30min dirve i popped the hood to cheack for heat and you can tell so easily its very cool compared to the usual placement on the righthand side, going to really try and keep it there when boost arrives. battery ended up right under the ecu in the very bottom of the centre console, fits like a glove, quite unbelievable actually, millimeters to spare > heh is strangley where the haynes manual suggests the abs computer is, which i found out a few weeks back to be incorrect. have pictures of the entire operation > fotos still on camera, had a crappy last week, (kinda like evade, but different) computer gave me troubles and emptied the boost $$$ fund again, grrr. anyways will post it up and perhaps write a how too if enough interest is generated or if i get bored. yet to decide on what to do in engine bay, i want to have some posts/terminals to make power avail for 12v light and jump starting,

over and out,
sorry if any spelling/grammer errors, v tired and have a deadline to finish some work for,

Alex

oh, cisco > will get onto the design stuff you asked about months back this week, keep eyes peeled all :p. oh and i'll have too quiz you on your abs remove operation, my abs works good (was loong piece of string wrapped around hub/suspension/abs sensor cause it to error out. anyways my booster is stuffed and it would be great to know any differences you find between the abs booster and the slx/lx booster, want too keep abs for now but a new abs booster is priced well by ni$$an.
 

CMF_Alex_B

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heh...funny story, been reading all cisco's efforts to reduce weight up front. moving battery, new smaller? manifold, lighter intercooler ect..i was thinking gee, i reckon you'll notice stuff all difference after all your efforts...well

may i say this > what a load of BS!

haha, how wrong was eye.

my car is very slightly bent from previous FLH accident damage and turns left really well and is dodgey/skatey going right. Well now i can turn right with about 90-95% of the vigour i put into turning left, previously that was about 65% i reckon...always felt dangerous and slideworthy. Now although the battery dosn't weight all that much compared to the total mass of the car, its right out at the highest most frontmost postion on the car,

so impressed with the unexpected gain in handling!

now worried about the mass of a turbo and manifold :( what else can i move :p:

Alex
 

cisco

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That's excellent Alex. All great news. Fire up. Sounds like a top recovery after your week of trouble with the car.

Thanks re:artwork, no rush though, I know ya busy! But keen to see what you can whip up.

Yeah agree re:handling. Fujita san from B-Crews said that the battery relocation will make a very noticable difference as soon as you've done it. I'm so excited to see how mine goes now!

I finished off making my battery bracket yesterday. Ready to screw it down now. But now you've got me thinking. How did you mount/secure yours in that tight little space? Or does it just happily sit in there and stay put?? Hmm my microtech is in there..

Yeah well I've pulled out the entire ABS now. Today I got the ABS computer out, and removed its massive wire loom from the engine bay, but the sunlight ran out so its still hanging in behind under teh dash until I can remove the dash quickly to finish it off. Big heavy loom that too.
Had to destroy the metal ABS lines in the engine bay to remove them. Bit of a pain in the arse, and unfortunate, but being 10 years old, you might as well replace them anyway. So now its no going back, non-ABS all the way.
So much extra room gained from not having all that stuff in there. The nice non-ABS lines so direct and out of the way - no loom, no massive heavy box. No wires for each wheel's ABS sensor. Heaps better for a modified engine bay.

Just waiting the intercooler and also my turbo oil drain fitting which I've still got to get. Then its simply time to weld up the manifold, dump pipe, install the intercooler and plug in piping. Piece of cake. Dyno run then drive.

Re:weight of the turbo conversion, its not a big deal. If you have a lightweight flywheel, you already have saved approx 5kg. The factory casy manifold is big and heavy anyway, a tube manifold may even be lighter. Add approx 6kg for the turbo, and say another few for the intercooler, but you've also removed your battery, so you're probably actually ahead. Then if you remove the ABS, you're definately ahead.. Bluey should handle well now. Can't wait to get back in there!!
 

CMF_Alex_B

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lol, no working tonight, computer has pulled another trick out of the bag, ha...can't live with them...can't live without them.

its so great that you met up with b-crews, sound like some really top guys with soo much knowledge. yep its a perfect fit under the ECU, i made up some straps with an elastic section and adjusters from spotlight, (yes...i hearby state that i went too spotlight for the second time in my life) found on a backpack and have strapped it around the ecu frame adn under the battery, she would budge even in a heavy accident. too fit it in there i pulled out that white plastic thing which holds two loom plugs out and reconnected the loom plugs outside that snug rectangular area.

with the abs, can you let my know if it connects too the booster in any special way? also i want first dibs on the abs booster if you going too sell it, mine is shagged,

hey, thanks for the flywheel reminder, forgot about the weight that removes. I think its weight forward of the front wheels which causes problems,

Alex
 

cisco

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Let us know how you go for sure mate. Because I am always keen for alternative options instead of this odyssey thing. It was super expensive, like $230 or something, I can't remember.
 
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