amp problems!!!!!

mike stacey

mike stacey

Ex. Club Member
hi i brought a new amp not long ago and ever since nothing has been right about it the amp keeps going into protection mode even when only the power, earth and remote cable are just connected( no speaker cables or RCA leads connected) and the amp keeps getting really hot any ideas

cheers mike
 
try changing the earth cable, and connecting it directly to the battery as aposed to part of the body work.

usualy on most amps, (saying its got protection sounds like vibe) there is usualy a lose or bad earth connection.

contrary to popular belief.... the "power" of an electrical system comes from the negative side of the battery or cable........ if theres a bad connection there isnto gonna be any juice getting to the amplifier, not even enough to power it on..



the other thing to check is that the remote cable is corretly connected to the head unit and that its switched "on" on the settings...

other than that... if it doesnt work.... take it back..
 
antony_aiken said:
contrary to popular belief.... the "power" of an electrical system comes from the negative side of the battery or cable........ if theres a bad connection there isnto gonna be any juice getting to the amplifier, not even enough to power it on..
Click to expand...

Depends on which definition of current flow you go on :p

either conventional current flow or electron current flow. With electron current flow the physically correct definition of what happens, the current does flow from negative to positive, but with conventional current flow, what everything works by and is designed around, it states that it flows from + to - though this is just to avoid confusion by changing everything.

However, your explanation is slightly incorrect, if there's a negative but no positive you're still not going to get anything, you need them both, you need the full circuit, or else there is no potential difference, so the current flow definition has no relevance to the amplifier problem, connect the + to the positive and the earth(-) to the - It's only ever relevant in circuit design.


But yeah, check your earth is good, and is connected to the chassis, and paint has been scratched off the chassis, so it is in contact with bare metal.
 
Alienfish360 said:
Depends on which definition of current flow you go on :p

either conventional current flow or electron current flow. With electron current flow the physically correct definition of what happens, the current does flow from negative to positive, but with conventional current flow, what everything works by and is designed around, it states that it flows from + to - though this is just to avoid confusion by changing everything.

However, your explanation is slightly incorrect, if there's a negative but no positive you're still not going to get anything, you need them both, you need the full circuit, or else there is no potential difference, so the current flow definition has no relevance to the amplifier problem, connect the + to the positive and the earth(-) to the - It's only ever relevant in circuit design.


But yeah, check your earth is good, and is connected to the chassis, and paint has been scratched off the chassis, so it is in contact with bare metal.
Click to expand...



not entirely correct, an amplifier will still light up if the earth and the remote are connected, and will do so if there is a very bad earth connection...... all be it still a conection.

and i work with physics im affraid. so the "common rule" is out of the window...... especialy if connecting batteries up in cars...

how many people disconnect the + first?
lol
 
antony_aiken said:
try changing the earth cable, and connecting it directly to the battery as aposed to part of the body work.

usualy on most amps, (saying its got protection sounds like vibe) there is usualy a lose or bad earth connection.

contrary to popular belief.... the "power" of an electrical system comes from the negative side of the battery or cable........ if theres a bad connection there isnto gonna be any juice getting to the amplifier, not even enough to power it on..



the other thing to check is that the remote cable is corretly connected to the head unit and that its switched "on" on the settings...

other than that... if it doesnt work.... take it back..
Click to expand...

Incorrect.

Both sides of the connection (+12V and GND) are just as important as one another.

Your saying the amp will turn on even if only the ground and remote are connected?! Wrong again. I suggest you take a course in electrical installation/electronics engineering before saying anything of the sort.

Oh, and Alienfish pretty much has it bang on.

Now think very carefully as to why you disconnect the - first..... its to do with safety if that helps.

Back on topic, mike, what is the amp make, model, etc? What wiring kit are you using (awg of wire? 12, 10, 8, 4, 2?). Where is your amp earthed to? Make sure you sand the earthing point back to bare metal.
 
the amp is an splx 900 watt i am not sure what wiring i am using all i know is that it is an splx wiring kit!!!!!!! hope that helps cheers mike
 
Retepetsir said:
Incorrect.

Both sides of the connection (+12V and GND) are just as important as one another.

Your saying the amp will turn on even if only the ground and remote are connected?! Wrong again. I suggest you take a course in electrical installation/electronics engineering before saying anything of the sort.

Oh, and Alienfish pretty much has it bang on.

Now think very carefully as to why you disconnect the - first..... its to do with safety if that helps.

Back on topic, mike, what is the amp make, model, etc? What wiring kit are you using (awg of wire? 12, 10, 8, 4, 2?). Where is your amp earthed to? Make sure you sand the earthing point back to bare metal.
Click to expand...



please dont question me on vehicle electronics...especialy audio.... take a multi-meter to the remote cable next time your instaling an amp....and tell me what it reads..

it will read 12v with ignition on and 14.4 with the engine on.... but the amperage is very small... even so, it will still bring the "warning" light on.

please go back to bed. as your obviously here just to slag me off...... try reading an instruction manual before questioning me.

and yeah i think its the SPLX bit thats your problem...
 
Of course the remote lead will read +ve, thats the idea. However, its not the power to the amp, so its not going to make the amp work!

The warning light would be on as there is no permanent feed connected to the amp. You said it would 'still light up' which from how it read, meant that the power light would be on, and it would also be turned on.

All that would like up with be the fault LED (as you eventually said), not the power LED.

You should have both the +ve and -ve connected before even considering turning on the headunit, there is no point in doing so otherwise!

There is no need to read an instruction manual, the amps dont work without the power and ground both connected.
 
antony_aiken said:
please dont question me on vehicle electronics...especialy audio.... take a multi-meter to the remote cable next time your instaling an amp....and tell me what it reads..

it will read 12v with ignition on and 14.4 with the engine on.... but the amperage is very small... even so, it will still bring the "warning" light on.

please go back to bed. as your obviously here just to slag me off...... try reading an instruction manual before questioning me.
Click to expand...

Don't question me dude, Im both formally trained and qualified in electrical engineering and electronic engineering.

You will obviously get a voltage with the remote cable, that's the whole point of it, but that still doesn't prove your point with what you was saying regarding the + and - and types of current flow.

Fair enough you may know abit, but your knowledge seems to still be limited within electrical and electronics.

I'm trying to slag you off dude, it's nothing personal, but the information you posted regarding current flow, was neither totally accurate nor was it relevant.
 
antony_aiken said:
try reading an instruction manual before questioning me..
Click to expand...

Pete is an audio god! Out of everybody i know, i'd turn to him first time everytime for advice, and im sure hundreds of others would do so too. He knows his stuff
 

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