UK Micra K11 Year 1997 Sills

[CMF_micrafun2]

Two years ago, part of drivers side sill needed welding to pass the MOT test.

Have now just come back from MOT test and its needed again.

Just wondered if others have come across this problem. Is it possible to get whole sill replaced economically?

Does anybody know names of any micra sill fabricators?

 

[CMF_frank2]

there are loads on ebay

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

Thanks Frank.
Is there an inner and outer sill or just one piece.

Also I've seen RH sill being described as "5dr car". Mine is 3 door. Will same sill work for me.

 

[CMF_frank2]

an aftermarket skin sill will be fit, but the factory sill is different around the B post tho eh, and i doubt if you will get the inner one, they are usually patched

 

[CMF_AB-NRML]

its easier and cheaper to just patch the inner as you can cover it with underbody sealer to hide it. replacing a sill is a fairly major job, expect to pay for a minimum 20hrs labour for one side.
I used to, and still occasionally do rust repairs on cars... we used to cut a cardboard template of the sill profile and take it to a company that bends ducting out of sheet metal, much cheaper but you have to fabricate the ends.
yours probably rusted again cos it wasn't rust proofed properly... rust will very quickly start around welds if they aren't treated with a rust proofing paint like POR15/rust seal/hammerite or treated with Waxoyl/fish oil.

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

Many thanks for responses.

One thing that puzzles me. Why its only on the drivers side. Does it mean the passenger side is not far to go? That would be ominous ...

Is it an end of life situation for most cars?

Luckily this Micra still works very well and I was getting ready for an oil change after the MOT test but now .... I am not so sure

What does the MOT tester do to "see" apart from pointy hammer. I cannot see the rust or the damage around the seat belt anchor point

 

[CMF_AB-NRML]

a pointy hammer, an awl or sharpened screwdriver or a finger to test the structural integrity of the panel either by strength or sound... with practice you can hear when a panel is rusty inside or covered with filler, the sound is dull and not tinny when you hit it. if it dents too easy or crumbles away obviously its no good either.
a magnet is a useful tool too, it won't stick to filler.
there's visual inspection too, double skin sections that are swollen are sure sign of rust. as well as bubbled paint.

sometimes where/how a car is parked plays a role, for example parked on the side of the road, the camber of the road makes the passenger side lower so water runs to that side of the car and leaves, twigs and whatnot tend to do the same which hold the water, particularly under the front guards behind the front wheel. so one side tends to rust more than the other.

its also possible that there may have been previous damage that wasn't repaired properly.

if you decide to get it repaired make sure to get the inside of the sills and any other area you can treated with Waxoyl. and when you wash your car use the hose to wash out the dirt behind your front guards to prevent it holding water and causing rust.

 

[CMF_AB-NRML]

you may not need to replace the whole sill, if its only rusted in one area and if its done properly you might be able to have it patched. I have replaced sections on a number of high performance classic cars that have remained sound. one 600rwhp Holden HT Monaro I replaced one entire side and the front quarter of the opposite sill 3 years ago and still solid as a rock. so its not a death sentence, get a few quotes and decide if the car is worth spending the money on.

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

Many thanks for the info.

Two years ago, when I had the first patch done, I remember the MOT tester saying to make sure a larger than affected area was replaced.

Or otherwise you will have to have it done again.

He used a chalk pencil to mark out the affected area.

And now another patch! This time there is no chalk pencil.

 

[CMF_AB-NRML]

bear in mind that the MOT tester is looking from the outside, the person doing the repair may be able to use a boroscope to look at the inside and tell you more accurately how much needs replacing.

 

[CMF_Mike R]

another problem is you dont know what you will find untill the job is started , what looks like a simple patch may be much more problomatic once the rust comes off !!!! get the carpet back and look for rust marks on the inner sill area as well to get an idea of whats gone on ..

I have a picture some where of the sill off , I will go and find it ..

 

[CMF_Mike R]

picture of the off side with no sill

 

[CMF_micrafun2]

Many thanks for all the responses and picture.

AB-NRML WROTE:

"its easier and cheaper to just patch the inner as you can cover it with underbody sealer to hide it. replacing a sill is a fairly major job, expect to pay for a minimum 20hrs labour for one side.<BR>I used to, and still occasionally do rust repairs on cars... we used to cut a cardboard template of the sill profile and take it to a company that bends ducting out of sheet metal, much cheaper but you have to fabricate the ends.<BR>yours probably rusted again cos it wasn't rust proofed properly... rust will very quickly start around welds if they aren't treated with a rust proofing paint like POR15/rust seal/hammerite or treated with Waxoyl/fish oil.

where is most of the time spent?
taking old sill off or putting new one on?

 

[CMF_AB-NRML]

putting the new one on. ideally it should be done with the wheels on and sitting level so the load on the body is normal... no point welding a sill on while the body is twisted. welding has to be done slowly and the in small sections to spread the heat and the distortion that will happen. then ideally the welds should be treated with some sort of rust proofing, then filler applied and sanded (more than once as you never get it right first go), then primer and sanding ready for paint, then paibf and possibly a coat of underbody sealer on the underside for stone chip protection.
its very time consuming to do it properly especially with all the waiting for filker, primer and paints to cure.

cutting the sill off and drilling spot welds is quick cos it can be destroyed somewhat to get it off.