throttle body part 2

Hi Everyone, I have just had my throttle body replaced by having a refurbished one fitted but that was a mistake!! As the R/F one made the engine rev too much & the mechanic has adjusted the ICV but to no aval & advised me to have the old one re-fitted as the rev's on that one are alright & I'll just have to cope with the car cutting out at the lights. I have just contacted the Ebay seller as he gave me a 12 garantee
 
Just resolder your old one , specially while it's out and have you not got a vacuum leak or idles set up, ie waxstat or cable ,
But as stated the old tb units the solder joints , also worth a look at the idle control valves want a load of wd40 on tthoguht them

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Hi All, I don't what to do next as the old T/B was cleaned by my the Seldon Garage- Croydon London head mechanic & then put back in to place then I took the car for a test drive. And everything felt alright. Peter0003
 
Take the cover off and reflow the solder, it's a fault on all k11 dizzy and will hit one time or another due to solder joints failing or drying out, just a fellow with sort it
Very simple cheap why to fix it, mine did it afew about may back 10minures with a soldering iron and solder been fine since,3k now

Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 
It depends on how the mechanic adjusted the idle. I'm assuming he adjusted, what is effectively an air bleed screw used to set base idle, highlighted in yellow? Some times you can wind that fully in and idle still remains too high.

In cases like that, it's likely that the screw on top of the wax stat (highlighted in red) needed some adjustment if the idle remained high when the car was up to temperature.

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As the car warms up the wax stat piston rises and lowers the arm to close the throttle. It can sometimes fail to rise enough and therefore hold the butterfly open just a little too much and thus stop the rpm from dropping. Winding the adjustment screw in on top of the wax stat will drop the arm away and reduce idle.

4442_1.jpg
 
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