So Today I Lowered my Car...

...But it hasn't gone exactly to plan.

I bought some 35mm lowering springs for the front some time ago (thanks @Magpie42), and some rear 35mm springs for the back some time later from somewhere else.

The front springs went on perfectly, were captive and modestly lowered the car nicely. So no problems there.

When we went to fit the rears though, we ran into some problems. First, getting the existing springs out of the car was a pain, even with spring compressors, we got one side out with some persuasion, but the other side required us to cut the springs out with a grinder.

When we put the lowering springs in, we found they were way to short to be captive, but they sat fine with the car on the ground. I suspected they were previously cut but wasn't told about this. Since we had so much trouble getting the stock springs out and had to destroy one of them, we had to just crack on.

With the springs on the rear and the car put back on the ground, the rear was sitting way lower than the front. So yeah, they were cut. I'll probably need to get some new springs as these are just too short. The other problem was I was planning on using the stock Micra shocks, but with these bodged springs on the back now, they're at risk of bottoming out. I can get some Corsa B shocks which should hopefully sort that.

The other problem is the mechanism that adjusts the rear brakes depending on the load at the back (not sure what it's called). I did a hard brake test, the rear wheels locked up and the back went out, which has never happened before. I heard this can be fixed with some cable ties, is that right? Here's what the car looks like now (excuse the poor photo, my camera lens smashed at some point)

IMG_20140810_191206.jpg


The front of the car is fine, I'm happy with it. I need to sort the back out though, so should I get some Corsa shocks and then think about lowering the front some more, and still have to work out the rear brakes. Or play it safe and look for some proper 35/40mm springs for the rear.

What do you guys think?
 
The problem is getting the original ones back in there. Even with compressors there isn't enough room to get them in.
 
The obvious solution to this problem is to lop a few coils off the front.

More seriously, are you releasing the top shock mounts so that the axle can drop? I'm sure that the stockers can pretty much just be levered out, though it's a long time since I have handled a full length one (fnar).
 
Do you mean the entire axle (shocks, panhard rod, trailing arms etc)?

All we took out was the shocks and panhard rod to get it to drop lower. Everything else was still attached.
 
iirc when mines was done we just disconnected the shocks and someone pulled the axel down and someone else pulled the springs out, a lot easier if you've got a 2/4 post ramp thoughi admit
 
Sounds plausible. Anyone know what to do with the rear brake situation? I saw it somewhere on here but I can't find it.
 
I did some more digging and managed to find Paul's guide, but some of the image links are broken. I think I know what to do anyway. I'm about to go outside with the cable ties, wish me luck.
 
You're supposed to do it whilst the car's on the ground right? How are we supposed to do that if we can't get under the car?
 
It'd be easier to do with the car on axle stands (on the axle) and the wheels off...

Although, I never bothered with the cable tie thing...I just reattached it...
Sent from the Magpie's magical nest using mad avian skills...
 
Ahh makes sense, so adjust the stands so they simulate tyre to hub distance so I can still get to the spring thing.

Magpie your genius knows no bounds.
 
Yeah even with the shocks disconnected, the axle just wouldn't go low enough.

when ur pushing the axle down with the panhard still attached it's basically trying to pull the axle left while the trailing arm bushes r trying to spring it back to centre causing the mechanism to bind.
before dropping the axle, I always disconnect the panhard and also unbolt my disc calipers so I don't stretch n damage the brake hoses, can't remember if drum hoses have enough slack
 
yea if you've lowered the rear chassis, lower that bolt so the spring is unloaded as possible, this ensures that when the arm does touch the actuator inside, the spring will apply load progressively (instead of suddenly) relative to the bump travel. if the cap nut at the top of that middle shaft can be lowered (no threads or seized) to pull the arm off the actuator, then do the ziptie trick
 
Managed to get some proper 35mm springs on the back, sits and drives perfectly fine now.

Only thing I need to know is if I still need to adjust the rear brake compensator valve at -40mm?
 
Yeah I'll give it a go. I didn't lower the bottom bolt (that attaches to the trailing arm), should I have done that?
 
Mines lowered 35-40mm and I also haven't altered the compensator. I did do a test to make sure the fronts locked before the rears on really heavy braking. Just for my own piece of mind. Adjusting my handbrake correctly made the pedal feel a lot better. I have it on 1 click.
 
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