Rocker / Cam Cover Removal

[mdmuddin]

Hi,
I have a problem with oil gathering in the spark plug wells and have been advised to take the cam cover off to check what the problem is. I'm guessing it's probably the seals based on what others have said, but have been advised to take a look under the cam cover first.

Can anyone help with a list of what I need for this?

I have read that the stock screws used to hold the cam cover down are easily ruined and better replaced with nuts. If that is the case, can anyone tell me exactly what size and type I should get to replace it?

Will I need a torque wrench or anything like that to fit it back?

Will I need any form of sealant or will I need to replace and gaskets just because I took it off?

It's just that I use the car daily and don't want to be left without it because I didn't have the right tools to put it back together.

Thanks

 

[mdmuddin]

I've just found these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Micra-K11-Stainless-Rocker-Cover-Bolt-Kit-/251534740813

What do people think about them?

 

[mdmuddin]

I found this also:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BGA-RC734...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item43cba023d3

Is it wise to order these first?

I watched a video about a Honda Civic and the guy recommends getting a new gasket as well as some form of sealant. Was wondering if that's necessary and what sort of sealant to get if so.

 

[mdmuddin]

Okay, now I have found some sort of torque setting.
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/askhj/answer/30197/torque-settings-for-nissan-micra-rocker-cover-bolts

Can anyone explain exactly how I achieve that and how important it is? Do I really need to go and buy a torque wrench or will hand a rough hand-tightening do?

 

[pollyp]

oil in the plug holes prob caused by either an old loose seal between the plug tubes and the rocker cover (try enlarging the tube with tape or fit another rocker cover with fresher seals) or the plug tubes have loosened off the cylinder head (dunno if it's screwed on or pushed on?)

the original rubber gasket seal could harden with age n leak so if its no longer soft n pliable, replace with a newer softer one.

make sure the new gasket matches the old one especially round the front left corner where the distrib-type engines have a hoop feature going over the hole and the newer coil-pack engines don't.

removing the gasket, always peel off n carefully scrape the old sealant off the gasket n metal surfaces and thoroughly clean n dry the surfaces with brake cleaner to remove oil before applying sealant all over the gasket.

yep the original steel phillips screws tend to rust and easily round off (suggest using an impact driver to loosen).
and then replace with allen bolts. these SS allen bolts r a good choice, stops em rusting n causing issues again.

no need for torque wrench, just hand tight in a star pattern.

 

[mdmuddin]

Thanks a lot for that pollyp, was hoping you in particular would reply. Have enjoyed reading your threads, thanks.

When you say sealant, exactly what type of sealant should I use?
Sorry, it's the first time I'm doing this.

 

[pollyp]

no probs, glad to help.

I use either black polyurethane adhesive sealant, stuff used to bond bodykits on such as tigerseal cos really tough n strong.

or black silicone flange sealant u get in halfords.
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pa...xhaust-repairs/loctite-si-5980-flange-sealant

here's a vid of when I was fitting the head on the rebuilt engine. @17:40 began cleaning n sealing the engine cover

 

[mdmuddin]

Thanks for the video, excellent.
For sealant, I have some of this stuff already which I used to successfully seal the bottom of the windscreen after it began to leak:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/geocel-the-works-sealant-adhesive-black-290ml/66022
Would it do?

If not, is the one you recommended better for this particular job or this one?
http://www.halfords.com/motoring/pa...99-premium-silicone-grey-gasket-maker-sealant


I just wanted to clarify, at approximately 18:30 in the video, you were cleaning the original plastic gasket with brake cleaner and rag before reinstalling it?

I found this video for a Nissan Altima but should be quite useful as it is slower and close up. It explains the whole start pattern thing for us novices.


Finally, if the tube seal has perished, shall I use PTFE on the top of the tube to try and fill the gap between it and the gasket?
Alternatively, how about some of that gasket maker stuff or some silicon (but not sure how I would safely apply it without it falling into the tube.
Are breakers the best place to get a replacement and if so, would checking for oil in and around the tubes be the best way to check if the seals are in good order?

Sorry for being pedantic, but I like to know exactly what i am doing and also think it will be useful to have almost a dummies guide here for posterity

 

[pollyp]

the sealant must be resistant to oil and high temps and fully cures into a tough flexible seal rather than stay tacky.
the screwfix sealant, not sure if it says it can withstand high temps and oil, although if it's used to bond windscreens on like tigerseal, it'll work.

imo I'd prefer to use stuff that's made intended for engine gaskets such as the halfords link or tigerseal.

before fitting, yes I was carefully peeling off & scraping the old sealant with a blade or flathead and then clean every surface with brake/carb cleaner & rag so the sealant can fully bond to the metal and not the oil residue.

apply a solid bead of sealant in the cam cover groove and on the engine heads surface as shown in ur linked vid.

can try the ptfe tape on the tubes to see if it stops the pooling.
if u wanna try applying sealant on the spark tubes as a last resort, dry the tubes with brake cleaner & rag, smear sealant around the upper section of the tube, then fit the cam cover.
always wait at least 12hrs for the sealant to fully cure before turning the engine.

yeah usually get the cam covers from scrappers. look in plug holes for previous signs of leakage.