Removing the fuel gauge needle?

[Paul Smith]

Hi

Just a daft question how do you remove the fuel gauge needle as mine is slightly out so want to put it right. I thought it would pull off but doesn'#t seem to want to play ball.

Thanks

Paul

 

[TheSam]

How do you know its out....

 

[Paul Smith]

because the light comes on about 3mm under the bottom of the red and when the tank is full it won't go to the top of the gauge

 

[TheSam]

How do you know the tank is actually full...

Mine is the same

 

[pollyp]

the breather pipe that bend up from the tank tends to kink n harden over years, so even when the nozzle clicks initially, there's still trapped air in the tank thats slowly trickling out past the restricted breather.

i'd have to retry bout 3 times letting all the air vent out till its brim then the gauge is at full.

 

[markbognor]

Is there a way you could move the whole mechanism relative to the dial? I have the same problem, the needle is low at the top, and drops off the dial at the bottom, suggesting the range is correct, just the calibration to the start and finish points out.

 

[Low Rider]

This is a very common thing on earlier K11's. My 94 SuperS gets into the red zone after about 28L and never goes to the top of the tank even when I brim it. Last time I stripped the rear end off we removed the fuel tank and got almost 15L out of it before it was empty, which just so happens to be very close to the quoted 42L capacity. My red light incidentally had never come on.....ever and it was only after I got my 96 GX that I realised there was a fuel warning light LOL!

We replaced the breather pipe when re-fitting everything and it made no difference to the gauge readings, proving that it was not the breather stopping the car getting a full tank but the gauge telling porkies.

As for getting the needle off, you just have to be bold, I believe we used a small screw driver to provide some mechanical advantage and a bit of cloth under it so as not to mark the cluster. It comes off but by hand it's a little hard as they are on there fairly well. Small piece of advice is to remove the needle and place it on loosely for calibration, as the needle can revolve around and around and around and thus lose it's place. It is also VERY heavily damped, so any change in fuel level takes a while to show. Once you are happy then press it on down and re-assemble the dash as necessary.

 

[Paul Smith]

Hi

Thanks for the info i have checked the breather fairly recently, but it is definitely the gauge needle.

Thanks

Paul

 

[r-reg-sr]

also fuel gauge sender unit in the tank can be swapped out to give you a diferent gauge reading,,,,,,as i have done this the other day,,,,,,a ok ,and has changed the setting on the needle

 

[Paul Smith]

I may check the sender unit as it takes quite along for the gauge to rise as well

 

[pollyp]

the gauge needle is heavily dampened with like some treacle.

i've taken the clear cover off my dash and whenever i fill up or it gets stuck, i just spin the needle round n round while IGN on and the treacle gets looser, release the needle to roughly where it should be and then the needle just twangs freely into position.

even when u swish the tank the needle bops up/down for abit.

after few secs the treacle thickens back up and dampens the needle.

if it still misreads, take out the fuel level sensor still connected to loom, IGN on, move the senser up to simulate full tank and see if the gauge rises to full. if not then the gauge needle is off