pollyp that link gives just an error page?
Mine looks like this at suspension full drop without the tool there
(picture borrowed from
http://www.micra.org.uk/threads/rea...lve-after-lowering-for-facelift-models.50178/
There is not enough adjustment so rod is not pulling the lever
And at ride height the rod stick out even more
Is that rod threaded fully?
found u have to be a club member and logged in to see stuff in the diy guides section but here we go:
when resting at stock height the little nut at the end of the spring rod pulls the bias arm away from the internal valve plunger and so with minimal loading on the valve, the brake fluid can flow in & out freely
when the rear is lowered below stock the nut no longer pulls the arm back at rest and instead allows the main spring to push up against the bias arm which then applies force against the valve plunger causing a constant restriction.
when braking, the applied brake pressure from the master cylinder can overcome this restriction, rear brakes would respond a little slower than the fronts
but when releasing the brake pedal the fluid can't return back easily, retaining the pressure and so the rear brakes bind causing premature wear, overheating disc & pads and poor economy
so what you need to do is lower the nut till it pulls the bias arm back out, just enough to relieve pressure off the bias valve
if the rod doesn't have enough threads, i just used a ziptie to pull the bias arm off the valve slightly when the susp is level
, it want to be a drifter
