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PollyMobiles Rebuild

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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Just watching through some of your video's and it actually only just clicked how close you are to me.
...gonna have to look out for this thing while I'm around middlesbrough!

where u work/live? i work near the uni
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
pads sometimes have a slight screach at 1mph so take the pads out

DSC06289.JPG


the inner RH pad has an odd shiny area

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stuck the provided shim on

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the LH pads have the odd patch on both pads

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its quieter now n only happens in rare occasions

low rider i measured these gaps to compare with urs

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baquete talked to me bout my dizzy position for using my turbo map on his setup.
i forced 15deg timing in datascan, idle goes upto 1100rpm, the pulley is at 0deg TDC so the dizzy was maybe -15deg too retarded before the remap?
back to normal 850rpm, the consult says -5deg, the pulley says +10deg, so the real ign timing at idle here is um -5deg?o_O
maybe the different rev's affecting the result so i shoulda lowered the rev to 750 on both occasions before measuring the pulley timing.
hmm makes sense since the response time of the ign system is fixed, the crank rpm will affect the position of the pulley once that strobe flashes
 
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baguete

Site Supporter
woopsy time to upgrade to these eh

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now its black diamond grooved discs with black diamond FT predator pads

Seems that i will have to buy some of those. :p

baquete talked to me bout my dizzy position for using my turbo map on his setup.
i forced 15deg timing in datascan, idle goes upto 1100rpm, the pulley is at 0deg TDC so the dizzy was maybe -15deg too retarded before the remap?
back to normal 850rpm, the consult says -5deg, the pulley says +10deg, so the real ign timing at idle here is um -5deg?o_O
maybe the different rev's affecting the result so i shoulda lowered the rev to 750 on both occasions before measuring the pulley timing.
hmm makes sense since the response time of the ign system is fixed, the crank rpm will affect the position of the pulley once that strobe flashes

If you force it to be at 15º, that means on the whole map or just for base timing? But by the looks of your dizzy i would say that is very retarded and 0º is possible...
 

frank

Club Member
mine,s set at 10 deg btdc paul, but i could,nt hear any det at 15 deg either (but i set it back to 10 just incase :))
 

baguete

Site Supporter
mine,s set at 10 deg btdc paul, but i could,nt hear any det at 15 deg either (but i set it back to 10 just incase :))

The "problem" is that Paul's dizzy was retarded when the map was done, then the whole ignition map was set to that base timing (more ignition advance to compensate). I can either pull the dizzy back or change the whole map to less 15deg...
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
If you force it to be at 15º, that means on the whole map or just for base timing? But by the looks of your dizzy i would say that is very retarded and 0º is possible...

it forces it at 15deg when TP closed no matter what the idle speed is.

The "problem" is that Paul's dizzy was retarded when the map was done, then the whole ignition map was set to that base timing (more ignition advance to compensate). I can either pull the dizzy back or change the whole map to less 15deg...

yea. but to be sure i'll recheck it tomorrow at same rpm for consistancy
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok just refuelled (my local shells been milked dry and ended up going to the nearest motorway service shell)
i've been running an idle of 850rpm for awhile, prob to reduce vibrations at 750rpm and prevent stalling under PAS load, which makes the timing at 850rpm become 5-7deg.
so i reduced idle down to stock 750rpm the consult timing goes up to 15deg.
i force 15deg via datascan, the strobe reads 2deg, the dizzy is 13deg offset retarded.
turn off active test and consult reading stays at 15deg, again pulley reading 2deg.

so there u go baguete, my dizzy is bout 13-14deg too much retarded
 

baguete

Site Supporter
ok just refuelled (my local shells been milked dry and ended up going to the nearest motorway service shell)
i've been running an idle of 850rpm for awhile, prob to reduce vibrations at 750rpm and prevent stalling under PAS load, which makes the timing at 850rpm become 5-7deg.
so i reduced idle down to stock 750rpm the consult timing goes up to 15deg.
i force 15deg via datascan, the strobe reads 2deg, the dizzy is 13deg offset retarded.
turn off active test and consult reading stays at 15deg, again pulley reading 2deg.

so there u go baguete, my dizzy is bout 13-14deg too much retarded

Ah, thank you one more time. ;)

I think i will aim for 15º total retard on the dizzy because i will run it with RON95, even with a lower CR using a thicker metal HG (1,75mm) i should reduce the chance of detonation.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Ah, thank you one more time. ;)

I think i will aim for 15º total retard on the dizzy because i will run it with RON95, even with a lower CR using a thicker metal HG (1,75mm) i should reduce the chance of detonation.

aye. think on weekend i'll try advancing the whole timing map 14deg then line up the dizzy proper.

yep frank, 15deg idle
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok i'm having abit of a confusion tday. at 750rpm idle the strobe readings suggests that the plugs are firing at 2deg BTDC? maybe i should instead rev above idle (where the timing matters cos idle timing might be misleading?), then compare the nistune consult timing with strobe?
 

frank

Club Member
its only because you have used 2deg btdc (instead of 15) as your base idle setting when the car was dyno,d surely paul ?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
its only because you have used 2deg btdc (instead of 15) as your base idle setting when the car was dyno,d surely paul ?

i'm not sure. i'm guessing with the dizzy in wrong position that ed wasn't aware of, he used the normal 15deg idle timing but the mapping above idle is correct to prevent detonation, max power & efficiency. hence i'm thinking rev above idle to find out for sure that ed's map is advancing timing more than usual to compensate for the 14deg retarded dizzy.
 

frank

Club Member
i think ed set dale,s GA the same paul, there might be a valid reason for forcing the base idle back prior to mapping?
best check with him really :)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
woulda thought at idle it should run the same as stock cos the c/r, airflow and other parameters would be similar, its just using different maf sensor and fuel system

like when i uploaded the stock 1.3 map & aligned the dizzy position, it idles and responds to pas exactly the same as stock
 

frank

Club Member
you have to take into account the timing scatter you get @ idle when the lower chain slackens off as the oil pressure drops in the tensioner too eh paul
 

frank

Club Member
woulda thought at idle it should run the same as stock cos the c/r, airflow and other parameters would be similar, its just using different maf sensor and fuel system

like when i uploaded the stock 1.3 map & aligned the dizzy position, it idles and responds to pas exactly the same as stock
but if the map peramiters only extend to (for instance) 45 deg btdc, and you need 55 deg, you can shift the base idle to achieve the 55 deg eh (and lose 10 deg at the bottom end obviously)
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
the fact is the dizzy is 14deg retarded outa position, the whole map needs retarding 14deg so the dizzy can be advanced into the correct position. normal driving the current timing would reach 48deg max (34deg corrected), full boost & rev its at 30deg (16deg corrected) and there's enough room to retard it all by 14deg.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok i warmed up the engine, hooked up nistune to check the consult timing, hold rev above idle say 1500rpm where the timing chart and consult says 40deg, check pulley with strobe and its round bout 27-30deg.
so thats verified then,
the dizzy is certainly 13-14deg retarded.

when tps is detected closed, it idles at 750rpm, timing is running unusually at 2deg (consult says 15deg yet the timing map at the idle region is 20deg?)

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when the IAV is briefly open for fast idle (after blipping or when in-gear above 5mph) or when idle is set too fast like 850rpm the timing is at -8deg btdc (consult says 5deg)

changed the engine oil & filter.

also checking the gearbox oil level to see if i lost much from the leak. took the pinion out, stuck a screwdriver down the hole to measure but couldn't see the level from the clear oil, so decided to grab the oil stick, took a reading and hmm the level is where the max point of the dipstick is, look in haynes which says the level should be 28-38mm, measured the stick and max level is 38mm! :)
oh wow u can actually use the oil dipstick to measure the gearbox oil level too, fascinating:D that shoulda been written in haynes
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
tday i played with the timing.
this is the current ign map in raw & filtered values

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looking at the map view while i alter the raw values i found that values:
0-63 = 0 to 63deg btdc
64-128 = -64 to 0deg btdc
128-191 = 0 to 63deg btdc
192-255 = -64 to -1 btdc

the dizzy is 14deg retarded so need to lower the whole map by 14deg

i can't decrease the whole map cos the cells at 600rpm/100% are already near zero. so i'll have to go up by 128 to get into the next +ve region

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now i can lower it all by 14deg to offset the dizzy

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the idle timing needed increasing back to 15deg

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so i uploaded the new map, advance the dizzy till the consult 15deg matches the strobes 15deg, lower the idle back down to 750rpm and she idles at 15deg.

i blip the throttle but seems really sluggish above idle. check the consult and even though the filtered values and the timing value in the map view says it should be +ve 21deg at 1200rpm etc the consult display & strobe shows its actually running the opposite -ve 21deg etc hence no power

ffs, i'll leave it back to previous setup for now
 

frank

Club Member
lol paul :) you have the patience of a saint, would it be easier to datalog it through the gears, then analyse it ?
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
lol paul :) you have the patience of a saint, would it be easier to datalog it through the gears, then analyse it ?

got plenty of datalog runs of the current running. i'm just trying to find how i can retard the whole ign map by 14deg so i can advance this dizzy.

been reading this forum bout tuning nissan ecu EPROMs, interesting read.

http://www.240sxforums.com/forums/ecu-tuning-section/111321-long-tutorial-tuning-nissans-ecus.html

i think it seems that the 128-191 raw values region is the retarding knock timing values. needs more reseach & playing around
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i've also tested another suspension cam angle

DSC06297.JPG


this ones a cold start (cold crank idle-up is abit odd after clearing the self-learn yesterday, having to blip it abit to get it going) with dampers at full soft.
camera exposure +1 and mic volume lo


this ones with the dampers at full hard and bouncy. camera exposure +1 and mic volume medium

 
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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
hmm when lowering the whole timing map from where it is currently, my first thought was that the low rpm/high load region would begin zero'ing out as it hit the lower limits, but actually that doesn't matter cos it'll never reach those areas anyway. so tomorrows plan of action is to simply lower the whole map 14deg from where it is at the mo, advance the dizzy and try it out.
 

baguete

Site Supporter
Yes, thats what i did, but it seems that some cells cant go under 0, but as you said, it doesnt matter because we never reach those cells.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
ok uploaded the above timing map, advanced dizzy 14deg & adjust idle rpm till the consult & strobe matches, cleared self-learn, rev up & check strobe and the timing matches.
i set the idle timing at 15deg on the map, consult confirms but the afr is 13. i lowered idle timing back to 7deg like what it was before and the afr goes back to 14.7
when in neutral and tps is closed, the timing runs on like a seperate map cos it goes to 15deg and afr 14.7
its only when in gear and tps closed that she runs at 7deg idle timing i set in the map
at idle i notice the exhaust would occasionally faintly hiccup/misfire/pop since i cleared the self-learn

figured i could mount the cam here under the bumper and tested few angles

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alot of windnoise from the exposed mic so cut a wooly winter sock to put over the mic

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set mic to low volume and the sound is much better

 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just measured the crack on the old discs.

its at least 0.75mm deep, groove slots on that side is 1mm, disc thickness is 25.34mm
even if one side of the disc was machined down to eliminate the crack it would still be least 24.34mm
min thickness is 23.9mm so only 0.45mm of usable metal left
so i think these old discs are scrap and prob not worth risking selling on

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i didn't like the whiteness of my helmet especially if i wear it on the road and stick out like a sore thumb. so sanded it down

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didn't have much acrylic matt black but got black vinyl paint, that'll do. light dusting first

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then thicker complete coat

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dried and looks the biz:)

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OP
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i wasn't happy with the new adjusted timing map cos at idle it kept occasionally misfiring


so i moved the dizzy back to 14deg retarded, uploaded the original turbo map and idles fine now


meh leave it like this now.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
i trimmed back the edge of the sunroof to try clear my helmet

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although kinda forgot the sliding cover uses the track, there's just enough lip left to slide on

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had a set of BPR6ES, same temp range that i'm using, see if i can use them

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the head is the same

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but the hex is 21mm compared to 16mm for the micra

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so tried to file it down 2.5mm each side

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but not enough metal there so i'll need to buy a new set instead, meh

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Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
Ah, that's annoying! I use the BKR7E-11 plugs, get em from Matt as he always has tonnes of them on the shelf :cool:
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
Got some bkr6e fitted, but noticed i was using bcpr6e, meh tis minor difference, same heatrange at least

Removed the sliding sunroof cover cos it just slides back abit loose n rattles annoyingly. Ducktape the sunroof glass to block sunlight.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this morning i tried to coldstart her without touching the throttle, she could sustain idle and stopped. repeateded cranking at wot just flooded her


took plugs out and cyl were all flooded wet. purged n tried again.
again struggles to cold crank and had to help the throttle abit to get her going n clear the throat. once its cleared n warmed she's fine.
cold cranking map needs altering. recorded the telemetry so will assess whats happening.


the drive to work with a sock mic muffler. there's an annoying rattle that needs securing, prob the cam balljoint screw handle thats flapping about.

 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just had a look at the telemetry and this morning with a cold 11C engine when i cranked her the injector was sending 38-40+ milisec of fuel!! no matter if throttle was closed or WOT :eek: no wonder it was struggling to struggling to fire and flooding easily.

when warm starting, injectors only fired 4milisec max

will upload video soon

definately have a close look at this cold crank map and past cold crank videos
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
this is the log of when it flooded


after drying off then coldstart again with abit of throttle


warmstart


tday i tweaked the cold enrichment & crank enrichment setting and its improved. post update later
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
so this morning after lowering the crank enrichment and cold enrichment tables it starts much better from the same 10C. when cranking, injectors peak at 12ms compared to 25ms last time it flooded.

 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
just went over to see costa tday and fix his super s. dizzy cap was full of oxide, dead o2 sensor replaced, seized gear linkage bush greased, TB waxstat removed, tps & IAV configured and changed oil. tried fitting new oil filter but got stuck halfway so either its a duff batch or its the wrong thread pitch, old filter back on.
should hopefully resolve the very poor mpg.
i'm well tired now :p
 

Low Rider

Poindexter
Founding Member
Moderator
Club Member
How's your new LSD holding up Paul? I'm keen to know how it behaves/compares in comparison to the original build spec :)

I just send a mail to gripper requesting some information /answers on the supplied standard K11 setups.
 
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pollyp

pollyp

Club Member
How's your new LSD holding up Paul? I'm keen to know how it behaves/compares in comparison to the original build spec :)

I just send a mail to gripper requesting some information /answers on the supplied standard K11 setups.

heya works like a charm now.
the preload is quite low which is street friendly. jacking one wheel up n it turns with some resistance so preload ring is still working. the mid-corner lift sudden release has gone and so LSD engagement is much much smoother now with such low preload.

launch traction is as usual gr8 when the torque locks up the diff enough
 
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