O2 Faker

Hi,

Going to get a peugeot 106 8v 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and make it fit onto a Micra k11 exhaust flange, for use on my K11.

One question though - my coilpack k11 has 2 lambda sensors and the peugeot 106 manifold shown in the pics below seems to have two mounting points for the lambda sensors. So I shouldn't get an engine check light when I install this manifold? And no O2 faker will be needed?

Im really hoping someone has already made one of these 106 manifolds work on a coilpack K11 and can offer their wisdom!

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Okay so looking online on ebay, I can't actually seem to find the manifold pictured above.
The only ones I can find have one lambda sensor mounting point.
So I will need an O2 faker right?
Where does this O2 faker go exactly?
 

frank

Club Member
you could fit a boss where your 2nd sensor was and then fit an o2 extender then your sensor, it limits the gas flow around the sensor and mimics the smoothed out signal
 
Okay I think I understand.....

So I will need to make a hole in the 106 exhaust manifold (where the second sensor was supposed to go), and then weld a boss into there, which looks like this:


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and then screw an extender onto this, which looks like this:


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and then screw the lambda sensor onto the extender?
 
Just seen a secondhand janspeed for sale but someone got there first! :(

I’ve been looking for so long as well.
The guy mentioned that if the customer doesn’t make payment within 24 hrs, then he can sell it to me. So fingers crossed!
 
Corsa c?, But saxo seem cheap and easy to find or look about at manifolds , there's a one near me think it for a escort or somthing is 80s but looks easy modifable for a CG engine ,
Problem is actual k11 mod parts are expensive think the cheapest is lowering coils , it's why you see so many dodgy hack jobs and some creative (good and bad) mods ,



Sent from my moto g(6) using Micra Sports Club mobile app
 

frank

Club Member
the 2nd lambda is the least of your problems anyway, lining up the headers and avoiding distortion on the flange when welded like that ^ is the main problem
 
the 2nd lambda is the least of your problems anyway, lining up the headers and avoiding distortion on the flange when welded like that ^ is the main problem

Given the info, I'm actually just considering waiting for a second hand K11 janspeed one thats priced reasonably and am not going to mess around with a 106/saxo etc one.

Even these janspeed ones only have a mounting point for the pre cat lambda sensor but I can get someone to weld in a boss for the second (post-cat) lambda no problem and then screw in a faker (or the extender method to smooth out the signal.)
 
So I guess I was in luck, managed to get a second hand Janspeed 4-2-1 for £80. It has a lambda boss for the pre-cat lambda but not for the post-cat lambda as expected.
So will need a lambda boss welded in (£10 job, as I don't have welding equipment).

Is there any advantages over 'screwing a faker onto the post-cat lambda boss' compared to 'screwing an extender and then screwing the second lambda'??? I just don't know which method to go for.

I know I can't just screw the second lambda onto the lambda boss because decatted will mean EML light will come on.

Second issue - MOT
With the 4-2-1 on, the car will have no cats, so won't pass MOT right?
Is there any smart way to get around this?
 
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