How do you do that?
Cheers Kieran
Use a heat gun to soften the silicone, open up the head light. Take out the chrome bit. Prep it, paint it, put it back together once dry. seal it using tiger seal. Then bobs your uncle.
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My Blue Turd - K11 Sport
- Thread starter fooby
- Start date
Use a heat gun to soften the silicone, open up the head light. Take out the chrome bit. Prep it, paint it, put it back together once dry. seal it using tiger seal. Then bobs your uncle.
OP
OP
I've posted how I did it in this very thread! Really simple and can also be done in an oven.Use a heat gun to soften the silicone, open up the head light. Take out the chrome bit. Prep it, paint it, put it back together once dry. seal it using tiger seal. Then bobs your uncle.
Don't think I posted this picture from an amazing sunset drive the other day. Looking good for her MOT on Thursdsy!
OP
OP
PROJECT PASS FIRST MOT
This whole "what a bugger to get off thing" seems to be a recurring theme. Failed MOT this morning on split CV boot and brake pads, which started grinding the night before. Turns out one pad had seized and caused uneven wear, so I didn't notice when I checked. The good news is the MOT tester let me underneath while she was up on the lift and the bodywork really is pretty perfect. Any rust is either on the front cross member or suspension components. He said it was the cleanest K11 he's seen
Anyway, I got the parts to do a full disk and pad change and a new CV joint (I tried yesterday to remove the CV axle from the hub with no luck, just didn't have time to sort it before the MOT test. It was properly welded in with rust, eventually knocked it free with a punch and a huge hammer to the spline. Threading the bolt back on a little didn't do a thing, just destroyed the threads. The next interesting bit was removing the old CV joint from the rest of the driveshaft. We got in our trusty neighbour who is a mechanic for TVR and has owned countless old bangers (mainly land rover) and he said this was the hardest CV he's ever done. We actually had to GRIND it off the driveshaft due to the little clip inside refusing to budge. Once done, the new joint and boot went on in five minutes and doing the rest of the brake work seemed like a relaxing shower after the CV. It would have been much easier just to do the whole driveshaft, but we didn't have the parts, time to wait for the parts or any gearbox oil lying around, so we made do with what we had.
Going for a re-test tomorrow with a bit of luck and should pass this time
Here are the culprit brake pads. One side had seized into the metal holders. Make sure you apply some anti-seize to the mounting points on the pads and the back of the pads to stop the same thing happening and reduce squeal.
I replaced the back box as it was leaking at the pipe to silencer weld. The rest of the exhaust system looks shiny and newish.
Operation slowly replace old rusty components is underway, starting with the track rod ends. I really need to go to town with a wire brush and some paint on the brakes.
The disk that was affected by the seized pad.
Shiny new brake components on!
This whole "what a bugger to get off thing" seems to be a recurring theme. Failed MOT this morning on split CV boot and brake pads, which started grinding the night before. Turns out one pad had seized and caused uneven wear, so I didn't notice when I checked. The good news is the MOT tester let me underneath while she was up on the lift and the bodywork really is pretty perfect. Any rust is either on the front cross member or suspension components. He said it was the cleanest K11 he's seen
Anyway, I got the parts to do a full disk and pad change and a new CV joint (I tried yesterday to remove the CV axle from the hub with no luck, just didn't have time to sort it before the MOT test. It was properly welded in with rust, eventually knocked it free with a punch and a huge hammer to the spline. Threading the bolt back on a little didn't do a thing, just destroyed the threads. The next interesting bit was removing the old CV joint from the rest of the driveshaft. We got in our trusty neighbour who is a mechanic for TVR and has owned countless old bangers (mainly land rover) and he said this was the hardest CV he's ever done. We actually had to GRIND it off the driveshaft due to the little clip inside refusing to budge. Once done, the new joint and boot went on in five minutes and doing the rest of the brake work seemed like a relaxing shower after the CV. It would have been much easier just to do the whole driveshaft, but we didn't have the parts, time to wait for the parts or any gearbox oil lying around, so we made do with what we had.
Going for a re-test tomorrow with a bit of luck and should pass this time
Here are the culprit brake pads. One side had seized into the metal holders. Make sure you apply some anti-seize to the mounting points on the pads and the back of the pads to stop the same thing happening and reduce squeal.
I replaced the back box as it was leaking at the pipe to silencer weld. The rest of the exhaust system looks shiny and newish.
Operation slowly replace old rusty components is underway, starting with the track rod ends. I really need to go to town with a wire brush and some paint on the brakes.
The disk that was affected by the seized pad.
Shiny new brake components on!
Any tips for replacing the alternator belt would be a blessing!?
OP
OP
There's a long bolt at the front that tightens the belt, I had to remove it completely and undo both alternator bolts to get the belt loose enough to get off, I think some older models have a tensioner pulley though so have a look and make sure yours doesn't. It's the other belt that's a nightmare!Any tips for replacing the alternator belt would be a blessing!?
