Micra K11 1.3 Auto doesnt drive (gearbox)

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umaguem sabe onde posso comprar esta peça, por favor me ajudem
 
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[QUOTE = "Merlim, post: 765523, membro: 30957"] [ATTACH = full] 57259 [/ ATTACH] [/ QUOTE]alguem sabe onde posso comprar esta peça por favor me ajudem
 
[QUOTE = "Merlim, post: 765852, membro: 30957"] [QUOTE = "Merlim, post: 765523, membro: 30957"] [ATTACH = completo] 57259 [/ ATTACH] [/ QUOTE] alguem sabe onde posso comprar esta peça por favor me ajudem [/ QUOTE]
 
[QUOTE = "Merlim, post: 765518, membre: 30957"]

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Bonjour Merlim, je suis française et je dois passer par un traducteur. vous semblez bien connaître le K11 automatique. Pouvez-vous s'il vous plaît me dire quelle tension arrive à l'entrée des balais-box? Sur le mien, la tension du moteur a tourné au ralenti. Varie de zéro à 12,5 v, puis diminue. quand on accélère, c'est toujours pareil. ? Comment cette tension est gérée At-il un capteur quelque part? Merci de votre aide
 
Hello I am French and I have to go through a translator. you seem to know the K11 automatic well. Can you please tell me what voltage is coming to the entrance of the box brooms? On mine the engine voltage turned on idle. Varies from zero to 12.5 v then it goes down. when you accelerate it's still the same. ? How this tension is managed. Does he have a sensor somewhere? Thank you for your help
 
Hi Abaaba just came across your thread!
If your engine is a 2000 onwards NCVT engine then you have a filter and a conventional torque converter (as Frank said) so is slightly different to my 1997 NCVT but both engines have a electromagnetic powder clutch, it is important to check the wear on the electromagnetic brushes and this is a fairly easy task. The electromagnetic brush holder is located on the front of the transmission case but for ease of access you should remove the battery and battery tray and also unclip the fuse box holders attached to the battery tray. Remember to disconnect the battery before starting!

Location of electromagnetic brush holder:
View attachment 47511
The battery and tray removed the brush holder is to the left of the dip stick holder/tube (can't see in this pic)!
View attachment 47512
Then unplug the brush holder electrical connector and undo the to retaining bolts carefully (this is the new brush holder in place)!
View attachment 47513
Old brush holder removed exposing the electromagnetic armature on which the brushes make contact!
View attachment 47514
The brand new genuine Nissan Electromagnetic Brush Holder and Brushes (£200), you could try and just solder in new brushes or if available use a cheaper clone version but this is such a vital component for the continuous optimum performance of the NCVT IMHO I did and would always buy genuine Nissan parts for reliability and piece of mind! The part number I was told by a Nissan dealer is the same for pre and post 2000 NCVT transmissions but check!
View attachment 47515
The left is the old worn brush holder and the new one on the right the old one does not look to worn but it was. There is a worn line indicator on the brushes which had been worn away on the old ones!
View attachment 47516
New brush holder in place and bolts correctly torqued! :)
View attachment 47517
Everything back in place job done! :D
View attachment 47518

On the test drive after the renewal of the electromagnetic brush holder and brushes there was a marked improvement and increase in pick-up and smoothness of transmission performance! :)

For more information on this task it is best to get hold of a Nissan Micra 1993 to 2002 (K to 52 registration) Haynes Service and Repair Manual Chapter 7 Part B Automatic Transmission Section 3.
For your reference your transmission designation is: RE0F21A

If you need anymore info please feel free to message me!

Cheers
Andy :D
Hey Andy, you are a wizard mate. I wondered if you might know what my problem is on my W reg K11, 1 litre auto. The car won't roll easily in neutral, as if the brakes are binding (all brakes work perfectly - not binding), and after a few miles, maybe 8 or 10, the car stays in 1st gear and won't shift up. Shifts ok again after it has cooled down. The car has been off the road in a garage for around 13 years. Gearbox works fine when driving until it heats up. Gear selector is a bit notchy and slightly difficult to move from P through to D and back again. Transmission fluid is clean and clear, and up to the level. I am a competent technician with 40+ years of the trade and not afraid to tackle most jobs, but I'm not familiar with these transmissions. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks in advance for taking the time to read this. Alan
 
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