Low idle please help.

H

Hazara

Hello every one,

My car starts at very low rpm 6-700 and the rpm rises gradually to 1240 when it warms up to operational temperature.

Is there something wrong? What do I have to look for?

Regards
 
Seized waxstat fast idler mechanism on back of pre-facelift TB (I usually remove the obsolete mechanism).

Plus also a sticky/seized idle control valve, at front of preface TB and at back of facelift Bosch TB.
 
pollyp said:
Seized waxstat fast idler mechanism on back of pre-facelift TB (I usually remove the obsolete mechanism).

Plus also a sticky/seized idle control valve, at front of preface TB and at back of facelift Bosch TB.
Click to expand...

Thanks pollyp,

Its a w reg with a Bosch TB, I think.

Can you please elaborated on how to check and fix it?

Regards
 
black unit at the back (left of pic) of the TB

.jpg
 
Agent_Sm1th said:
4 bolts 1 at each corner of throttle body. Unscrew them And lift off.
Click to expand...
Thanks Agent_Sm1th,

I was worried if it effects something else thats not obvious!

If unscrewing and disconnecting other connection and remove the TB, will not effect anything else, then thats what i will tomorrow, since I don't have time today. Have to go to work.

Regards
 
Hazara said:
Hi pollyp,

I have tried to locate and open it, but unfortunately noticed that in order to open it tb has to be removed as can be seen here: .

Furthermore, the car thrown a p130 error code. Now can you please advise/instruct me how go about it?

Regards
Click to expand...


the TB has to be removed via those 4 star torx head bolts (the prefacelift uses allen heads) for easier access to the IACV screws

p130 is bad or out of range O2 sensor
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0130
 
pollyp said:
the TB has to be removed via those 4 star torx head bolts (the prefacelift uses allen heads) for easier access to the IACV screws

p130 is bad or out of range O2 sensor
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0130
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp,

Checked o2 sensor and its 0.5 or some times fluctuating up to 0.9 and 0.4.

Replaced the 02 sensor in 2013 and the car was standing since May 2013. Basically its done less then 2000 miles with the new sensor which is universal one!

Is it possible to clean an 02 sensor? If yes, what with?

I have not opened the iacv yet since haven't received the torx that ordered from Amazon yet.

Regards
 
Hazara said:
Thanks pollyp,

Checked o2 sensor and its 0.5 or some times fluctuating up to 0.9 and 0.4.

Replaced the 02 sensor in 2013 and the car was standing since May 2013. Basically its done less then 2000 miles with the new sensor which is universal one!

Is it possible to clean an 02 sensor? If yes, what with?

I have not opened the iacv yet since haven't received the torx that ordered from Amazon yet.

Regards
Click to expand...

if the O2 is flicking up/down twice per sec at 2k rpm then it's responding fine. unless ur burning loadsa oil & soot, they rarely need cleaning (at worst could prob just brush the soot buildup off) since any residue usually burns/blows itself off.

best off cleaning and getting the IACV working first before considering any replacement of a more expensive O2 sensor.
 
pollyp said:
if the O2 is flicking up/down twice per sec at 2k rpm then it's responding fine. unless ur burning loadsa oil & soot, they rarely need cleaning (at worst could prob just brush the soot buildup off) since any residue usually burns/blows itself off.

best off cleaning and getting the IACV working first before considering any replacement of a more expensive O2 sensor.
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp,

I have noticed one of the spark leads is quit oily due to oil spillage perhaps. Was wondering if cleaning the spark connection will do any good. I have got contact cleaner will it any harm/good if sprayed on the electrical connection in general and spark connection in particular?

This is the product I gothttp://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003IIGVBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1449310638&sr=8-17&pi=SL75&keywords=contact+cleaner+electrical
Please advise.

Regards
 
Last edited:
Hazara said:
Thanks pollyp,

I have noticed one of the spark leads is quit oily due to oil spillage perhaps. Was wondering if cleaning the spark connection will do any good. I have got contact cleaner will it any harm/good if sprayed on the electrical connection in general and spark connection in particular?

This is the product I gothttp://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B003IIGVBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?qid=1449310638&sr=8-17&pi=SL75&keywords=contact+cleaner+electrical
Please advise.

Regards
Click to expand...

u mean it's oily inside the spark plug tube? that's usually caused by old loose spark plug tube oil seal on the engine cover

k550i-241-jpg.37469


and fixed by either getting a newer engine cover or enlarging the tubes with some tape for tighter fit

dsc01101-jpg.43314


https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/pollymobiles-rebuild.35251/page-136#post-724736

for the electrode side of the spark plug, the most u should do is just brush any loose carbon off by hand with small wire brush (avoid wire wheel brushing it cos that tends to leave a metallic residue all over the tip & insulators from the wire wheel and affecting spark slightly) and check/adjust the spark gap to 1.1mm

ensuring a clean dry electrical connection is always good so give the oil contaminated spark plug top and the inside of the HT lead head a good wipe clean.
the 500ml can on contact cleaner is just isoprophl alchohol electronics cleaner (nice weak solvent for cleaning any fine dirt/grease/residue off delicate surfaces like electronic contacts, lenses, heatsinks, any surface that has to be really spotless).
not really of use around the car tbh, too weak for the heavy duty dirt/grease. if you can return it, I'd still go for carb or brake cleaner as a much more versitile and stronger cleaning agent.
 
Tried to remove TB for access to IACV but failed. The stopping point was the 2 pipes connected to and is really difficult to remove!

Here is the video o 2nd attempt


Regards
 
slide the metal clamps along the hose away from the pipe it's clamping onto with pliers.
the rubber hose usually sticks to the pipe after being clamped for yrs so crack loose the bond by twisting the hose with pliers where it joins the pipe.
once it's cracked loose, pull & twist the hose out.

those are coolant hoses so be ready for spillage and plug up the two hoses with a bung or bolt.
 
Thanks frank and pollyp,

I will the tricks perhaps tomorrow if weather permits. I think i have to drain the coolant first. It needs replacing anyway.

In the mean time, is if possible to spray from the top opening of the TB? If yes how to remove the mash?

Regards
 
if ur gonna replace coolant, drain it all before unplugging the TB lines will make it abit easier so dont have to bung the pipes.
remember to turn heater dial full hot to open the matrix pipes to drain & bleed.

just spray through the TB mesh aimed at the maf wire
 
pollyp said:
if ur gonna replace coolant, drain it all before unplugging the TB lines will make it abit easier so dont have to bung the pipes.
remember to turn heater dial full hot to open the matrix pipes to drain & bleed.

just spray through the TB mesh aimed at the maf wire
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp

When heater dial is turned to full, should the engine be running or cold for draining the old coolant? Or its only necessary bleeding?

Regards
 
Last edited:
pollyp said:
Turn to hot for both draining cold coolant and when bleeding system with running engine.
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp,

Third time lucky I have opened TB and iacv unit but can not locate valve! Is that unit opens if yes its really difficult.

Here is video

Regards
 
yep thats the bosch IACV removed and is a sealed unit. just need to spray carb/brake cleaner into both openings to clean/flush any carbon/dirt off the moving valve ports inside and reinstall.
 
pollyp said:
yep thats the bosch IACV removed and is a sealed unit. just need to spray carb/brake cleaner into both openings to clean/flush any carbon/dirt off the moving valve ports inside and reinstall.
Click to expand...
Thanks pollyp,

I have sprayed brake cleaner something like six times. Reinstalled everything.

Refilled the coolant and ent for drive. There was much difference. I have to check idle fro cold in morning. When warm the Rpm was idle at 1050-1100.

Regars
 
Thank polly,

I have sprayed on some connections the engine turned off couple of minutes and when started the engine was gone driving for about less than half mile it came back on.

It seems that there is air leak somewhere but how pin point it?

Will a damaged tb gasket cause air leake? Where get one of those or what of sealant do need?

Please advise
 
Update:

Got a gasket from west way Nissan for £3.78 the other day and fitted today. Before fitting the gasket the car, when warm, the RPM going to a stage that at traffic lights it stalling. But now after replacing the gasket went for a mile drive and came back the stalling and kangrooing is gone but the RPM is 12-1300.

Cleaned the MAF and will drive to work and back to see whats changing.

Regards
 
Update:

Today went shopping and noticed the kangrooing started again. Worse part is that when warms up it turns off and after couple of start battery goes down. Today barely got home and had to push from the road to drive way!!

After replacing the gasket it was okay for going to work and back which is 4 mile Dow the motorway.

Throttle consists of MAF, TPS, IACV sensors and some plates (some please correct). Instead of replacing the whole unit wouldn't it be easier to check and the faulty part?

One question how to clean the throttle body housing? Does it have effect?

Next I will clean the TPS and MAF with methylated spirits and resolder the o2 sensor connection that was soldered when replaced it.


Regards
 
Your battery should last more than a couple of starts? You need some volts to power the ECU. Check the alternator is charging or get a new battery if its duff.
 
Had and old MAF and cleaned it by immersing in methylated spirit for 10 minutes and left to dry for couple hours. Fitted the cleaned MAF and tested the o2 data. It was going up and down like a yoyo with the RPM at 1060. But RPM was at 960 when the car started but gradually increased to 1060 without touching the pedal.

Opened one of spark plugs for checking and was nice brownish. But unfortunately fitting it back brook the screw/bolt!!!

Any ideas how to get out?

Regards
 
Hello every one,

After all the fiddling I managed to end up with the original high idle issue minus the engine light!

Here is what I have done:

1. Opened and cleaned the IACV
2. Cleaned the TPS.
3. Replaced the MAF sensor.
4. Replaced O2 Sensor

The high idle is getting worse and the sound is horribly loud specially at the traffic lights where the RPM is fluctuating like a yoyo between 1200 and 2000!

I drove nearly 100 mile from Manchester to Birmingham today.

This morning when I sprayed contact cleaner on the MAF and TPS the RPM stayed at 1200 for a while.

Does any have any suggestions?

Please help.

Regards
 

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