K11 on Spanish Hoops

[Ognyan]

Just got some sweet 4X100 6JX15H2 ET38 hoopage :grinning:
Check them out:

Fairly clean and as far as i can tell should be a straight fit. (Y)

Turns out they are not. The center section is too tight for the K11 drums/discs protruding part to fit into :down:

Please do throw some ideas at me of the easiest and most cost effective ways to make them fit (Y)

 

[Guy]

Depends how much material needs removing. There must be some kind of large engineering lathe that could enable a small bit of alloy to be turned off. Fantastic alloys btw .

 

[markbognor]

You have three choices really, presented in my personal order of preference.

1. The ideal solution, get them to a machine shop that will bore the centres out to 59.1.
2. Use spacers to bring the wheels out past the centre spigot. (this will very likely require longer studs)
3. Grind away the centre of the wheel until it is larger than, with a clearence all the way round the spigot.

The wheel will centre on the tapered seat for the wheel nuts, it could centre on the spigot as well but its not absolutely nessarsary. If you choose 3, just make sure that the centre bore is clear all the way round otherwise it could be forcing the wheel off centre.

 

[pap29]

measure how far of the wheels sit at the moment and get spacers to that size or bigger but like mark said check theres enough stud

 

[Guy]

Replacing the studs with slightly longer ones is pretty simple (the one job where 'Two-hatting it with a large hammer' really is the correct way to do the job ) and it would look awesome with a wider stance. I'm actually debating doing it to my 160!

 

[Ognyan]

Thanks very much for all the input people! (Y)

You have three choices really, presented in my personal order of preference.

1. The ideal solution, get them to a machine shop that will bore the centres out to 59.1.
2. Use spacers to bring the wheels out past the centre spigot. (this will very likely require longer studs)
3. Grind away the centre of the wheel until it is larger than, with a clearence all the way round the spigot.

The wheel will centre on the tapered seat for the wheel nuts, it could centre on the spigot as well but its not absolutely nessarsary. If you choose 3, just make sure that the centre bore is clear all the way round otherwise it could be forcing the wheel off centre.

I was also thinking on option 1, so I'm going to have to start looking for local machine shops and get quotes :suspect:
Hopefully it wouln't be too dear.

 

[Guy]

Agree it's probably the most satisfactory solution long term - more engineering, less bodging (Y).

 

[Ognyan]

A bit of an update :grinning:

Final result (Y)

Please do share your opinions! + -

 

[Shaun]

Please do share your opinions! + -

Awesome! - just needs lowering.

 

[markbognor]

Crikey, they look enormous! Any chance of some smaller tyres in the future? The looks would definately be helped by coming down a bit too.

Glad you went down the engineering route. Who did you use and how much was it? It might be a great help to other members to have a recomendation and an idea of price.

 

[Ognyan]

Crikey, they look enormous! Any chance of some smaller tyres in the future? The looks would definately be helped by coming down a bit too.

Glad you went down the engineering route. Who did you use and how much was it? It might be a great help to other members to have a recomendation and an idea of price.

Chaps that did the job for me are GC Engineering in Bow Brickhill. Real sound people, did the job quick and accurate for a total of £25. Do look them up. (Y)

 

[Ognyan]

Time to get some proper wheel nuts for the new hoops and got my eyes on these:

Could someone please confirm, whether thread size 12x1.25mm is correct?
Thanks in advance! :grinning:

 

[Ognyan]

M12x1.25mm is ought to be fine, just unsure about the 60 degree taper?!?!? :glare: