Help :(

N

Nismok10

Deactivated Account
Help ENGINE BLOW BY :(

reet guys did my head gasket and it was minted running fine more power.. cuz i had coolent going in the piston

but yea i went on a drive on motorway and on the way back the oil light flicker and so on.. yea somthings not right the car aint being good no more

got home oil everywere in the engine bay on the alternator side.. i know the Cam Seal has come out cuz i replaced it so kinda gutted but the car dont want to idle and running bad.. but if it was just a seal and low on oil it should run okish.. i guess but i taken the plugs out and 1 and 4 are oily and the 2 -3 aint.. so i dont know

im really hoping its not the head .. i really dont think it will be the water is ok and the car didnt over heat..

Valve seals ? but why ...

or is it just because of the cam seal

help and oppinions would be nice

thanks
 
when its running is there any blue smoke?, mine ran bad when i first started mine after the head gasket as i had to reset the tappets,are you sure they changed the oil when they did the head gasket?
 
imp124 said:
when its running is there any blue smoke?, mine ran bad when i first started mine after the head gasket as i had to reset the tappets,are you sure they changed the oil when they did the head gasket?
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tut.. i think it did a bit wile driving before it went iffy.. back window went greesy i think but i duno everything was done and the car was great and i did it all and the oil was changed lol. maybe the seal wasent in right just woundering if having a bit of oil on 1 and 4s spark plugs will be ok its cuz of all the oil flaying about from the seal . and 1 not firing and so on but i duno

:( we'll c tomoz
 
inside .. one 1 and 4.. middle 2 are ok but 1 and 4 are linked and go togeather so yea .. number one could of missfired due to oil going in the top .. and making 4 mess up i really dont know..

i dont think its the head it cant be not again :( .. if anything maybe the valve seals.
 
I dont really know what to suggest really without taking it apart again as i have never had this problem :(
 
rite ive had alook today put the cam shaft oil seal back in..

the car runs okish lumpy on idle but yea thirs smoke coming out the top well more steam looking but when dad took the dip stick out thir was more coming out thir .. so thirs either somthing rong with the head gasket again .. or somthing worse and deep.. but who knows please help :(

anyways i did a compression test and 1 and 4 are fine at 200 and 190psi.. but 2 is 130 and 3 is 70..

so can anyone help? or have questions i dont want to strip it all down yet till i have some feedback

cheers
 
ah oki .. every one here said that so ill take it apart and yea it was skimmed at a good place and so on.. i duno ste.. but mines good compression and always been a powerful engine anyways like i said thats why i was getting 72.5 bhp before i did the last skim i should be way easy to 75 when i get it sorted :)

the only thing my dad did .. was when we used the torque wrench it didnt click do out so when he was doing the first bolt in the middle it was tightend .. so then he released it back and tryed again and it was ok and then did the rest like you are suposed to do maybe that didnt do it good but

why now and not earlyer i guess and why would the cam shaft oil seal come out..

cheers
 
Nismok10 said:
ah oki .. every one here said that so ill take it apart and yea it was skimmed at a good place and so on.. i duno ste.. but mines good compression and always been a powerful engine anyways like i said thats why i was getting 72.5 bhp before i did the last skim i should be way easy to 75 when i get it sorted :)

the only thing my dad did .. was when we used the torque wrench it didnt click do out so when he was doing the first bolt in the middle it was tightend .. so then he released it back and tryed again and it was ok and then did the rest like you are suposed to do maybe that didnt do it good but

why now and not earlyer i guess and why would the cam shaft oil seal come out..

cheers
Click to expand...

one thing, did you just tighten the gasket down once or do it progressively?
 
ah oki cheers.. and did it properly in the right sequence 15-29-47.. from what the sheet said in the gasket set .

my dad said if we do it again maybe tighten it more cuz of the compression being high .. or what you recomend

cheers
 
Nismok10 said:
ah oki cheers.. and did it properly in the right sequence 15 30somthing and 47.. i think but yea ./.

my dad said if we do it again maybe tighten it more cuz of the compression being high .. or what you recomend

cheers
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i always pull my headbolts down to about 75nm (starting from the middle 2 then working outwards) and i leave it for an hour or so (or preferably overnight)
then i back each bolt off 1 turn and pull it down again to about 75 again (you will find it,ll go another 30deg or more :eek: because of the way the H/G compresses) and do that to each bolt in turn, ie the other bolts hold the H/G compressed while you torque each bolt fully :)
 
yea it says on the sheet to them all 15 then 30 and 47 .. in the sequence same the the haynes manual but then loosen 90 degree then re-torque then heat engine up so thermostate open .. then let cool for 4 hours then back off 90degrees then re-torque

that sounds all good we didnt do the 90 degree bit and re-torque didnt think we had too..
 
Nismok10 said:
yea it says on the sheet to them all 15 then 30 and 47 .. in the sequence same the the haynes manual but then loosen 90 degree then re-torque then heat engine up so thermostate open .. then let cool for 4 hours then back off 90degrees then re-torque

that sounds all good we didnt do the 90 degree bit and re-torque didnt think we had too..
Click to expand...

i dont know if you need to heat the engine personally, but the H/G, s really do compress when left
my C/R is 11.5:1 with a (many times) re-used gasket, with no probs at all :wasntme:
 
good for u .. why re use a gasket have u needed to do work on engine many times or summit ;)

im gunna have a look at it again.. ah well FUN! not

was thinking of re torque and see if making them tighter would maybe help or fix but my dad said he wants to have alook and get a new gasket and so on and start again

:)
 
reet took it apart.. and er both middle pistons the gap inbetween them both the gasket was showing like they were connected.. thu causing the problem might be ddue to the torque wrench problem :p this time it will be ok :D
 
ive read on a few sites about "Why is smoke coming out of the dipstick?" and people say
Engine "Blow-by" caused by excessive engine wear usually bad piston rings
but im really hoping not, but like i said before the gasket was dis-coloured inbetween 2 and 3 pistons what do you think
the car aint done laods of miles and i dont think after doing the head and the gasket, would then give me other problems.. it must be linked to the gasket if you know what i mean
 
sure it isnt just steam if a little water has seeped into the oil somehow? did you flush it out when you drained the oil out when the gasket went?

Steve
 
dude.. it aint somthing easy.. i know what im doing anyways im getting blow back still so looks like piston rings !...... oh GOODIE..

so yea more help needed does anyone know if i can do them from the bottom of the car.. from the sump and so on..

i really dont want to take the engine out

cheers
 
frank i dont need that plz.. im new to everything but learning but i ment i know what im doin IE flushing things and doing everything else ive done but this is new to me now

so yea just help would be apriciated
 
Nismok10 said:
good for u .. why re use a gasket have u needed to do work on engine many times or summit ;)
Click to expand...

i just dont appreciate sarcastic comments when i,m trying to help you fwn
if your 1 and 4 plugs were oily and crankcase pressure it points to worn rings (plugs 2 and 3 were probably getting washed by coolant)
were the piston crowns scraped/cleaned when the H/G was changed ?
 
cheers frank. it was only a joke.. chill out everyone on this forum gets too tetchy always have ;)

reet yea i cleaned them and thir was no scoring with the cylinder walls :)
 
Nismok10 said:
cheers frank.
Click to expand...

np :)
if the pistons "were" decoked you can bet most most of the crap went down the gap around the piston and clogged the rings :doh:
and as you raise the C/R the blowby get worse :eek:, personally i would drop the sump and lift a piston out and check it, and the rings
 
pistons wont come from the bottom, need to remove the head again, the last set of rings i bought were around £65 they were non genuine ones.

couple of things to try, rip the head back off check the gasket, look into getting some rings and study how to get the pistons out, you will really need a piston ring compressor also, glaze bust the bores, clean the pistons and fit the new rings and then fit the piston, however if it were me, id take pistons out, give the bores a good honing with coarse ish grit blocks carefully take the old rings off, if there not too badly worn, clean the piston so its spotless clean the rings and refit them the exact opposit way the haynes manual tells you to. i did this to my cg10 stroker engine and it doesnt smoke at all and im £100 better off.

or alternatively, sell me the car as spares or repair, ill give you scrap value, and we will all be better off, lolol
 
im trying to get new rings.. from nissan .. and taking the pistons out from the top..
the engine is lowish millage and thirs no ware on the cylinders .. i rather do them all then just one.

and the car stays with me thanks. its worth more than scrap value .
 
you will be lucky if you can still get them from nissan, plus they will ba a fortune .. they have to come out from the top, dont take the crank out tho no need, just introducing more problems.

lowish miles mean nothing, i would sooner buy a car with 100,000 motorway miles than 50,000 school run and shopping miles, or worse still 20,000 young driver/boy racer, (not suggesting anything and no offence intended).
no matter what the mileage the bores need honing/glaze busting.

was only joking about selling, its worth more than scrap value with a WORKING engine,
 
nissan £99 .. and yea out the top i know :) and im not a boy racer im a man and i race :p but thats why the cars being sorted out

i aint got much money mind so dont want to do too much.. ive found 2 places the head shop that did my skimming and king components that can get the ring cheaper..

the engine works just needs sorted and the car is still worth more than scrap without an engine.. cuz of the other stuff and work :)
 
need a bit of info .. the haynes manual can be confusing on info..

rite im going to be doing new piston rings.. full set ..

what do i need to know..

honing info.. and so on sizes measurements etc
also piston ring gaps top 2nd and oil control..

all for the 1.2 super s engine..

and any other info that might be useful

thanks
 
Nismo!! found some info in the haynes manual under supplements... 13:3
end gap:
2nd 0.15 to 0.34mm
oil control 0.20 to 0.69mm
end gap wear limit-all rings 0.80mm

it has a note [ specifications are given only where different from those given for the ma10 s engine, including those above]

hope it helps in some way as i have no clue to what they are going on about!
 
yea i know thanks.. does the first one come from the MA10.. from the front of the book.. cuz thirs 2 compression and 1 oil control.
 

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