Hellllllp

Anderson

Buy & Sell Member
I paid some "Numpty" to put my swap my 1.0 engine for my 1.3 keeping the 1.0 gearbox.
After arguing and him not listening i now have the 1.3 gearbox. As far as im aware hes changed rear and back engine monunts, gearlinkage. And thats it. The car is origninally a 1.0 Shape. Now the engine wont start. 2nd gear is non existant and he is trying to tell me its the ecu so ive told him were to go. There are a few plugs missing on the loom due to not fitting or whatever. One main one that i can see being on the gearbox. hes took my money and i dont have any more to pay someone to fix this. so with my little knowladge ive decided to tackle this myself.

The engine wont spark
And cant get 2nd or reverse

Can somebody give me some guidence before i go in armed with my socket set and no knowladge
 
Hi mate, bad news there for you. Did he change the loom at all? No spark could be nats? Or a distributor problem ive had before. The gear select problem is probably down to the guy not doing something right with the mount/linkages or the gearbox is faulty
 
im not sure what to suggest there... but if you still wanted the 1ltr gear box it would be a case of almost pulling it all out again! and the loom should be the same.... it was for me... if you lived closer i would come down give you a hand!
 
Thanks for the help guys, this is what makes this forum.

There was no loom changes made at all. the dizzy has been changed just incase and still doesnt spark.

will the ecu not be starting or imobilizing due to some of the loom being unplugged? All the major plugs seem connected.

Thanks will, im sure it will get sorted....I have no option im having to bike to work everyday in the recent thunder! (hardly good!)
 
if i was you i will not go through the hassle changing the engine you rather sell your car and get 1.3 and it will cost you more less and stress free or unless you already modified your car outside then its a different story but thats what i think would be the best idea
 
if i was you i will not go through the hassle changing the engine you rather sell your car and get 1.3 and it will cost you more less and stress free or unless you already modified your car outside then its a different story but thats what i think would be the best idea

Ive already paid for it to be done and been left. the engine is in now.
...

Worst thing is im only having to do this because some fool crashed into my super s!
 
I'm in the middle of doing the same conversion and the rear gearbox mount bolt is longer and so is the stabliser arm in width that comes from the gearstick to the mount and it fouls the selector shaft so thats probably why you can't get 2nd gear mate. Also the angle at which the gearstick connects to the selector shaft is slightly different, I'm planning on taking the selector shaft end off a 1l box and cutting a piece off the stabliser arm and using a shorter bolt for the gearbox mount. Hope this helps
 
I think its just the one that should be connected on the very left of the gearbox now, would that effect the car from starting?
 
I think its just the one that should be connected on the very left of the gearbox now, would that effect the car from starting?

no, that wont affect the spark mate, there should be a thread a while back about checking the wires to the dizzy (for a feed and signal etc)
 
It might help, ive never known this but after trying to start the engine. after i stop i can hear the fuel pump come on. ive never known this is this normal. Thanks frank il have a look. Is there any grounds on the inlet?
 
Pretty sure NATS cuts the injectors so wont be the cause of the 'no spark'. Are you getting fuel? wet spark plugs...

just knocked this up, might help:
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Okay people i became an auto electrition at the weekend, armed with a multimeter. The engine is grounded, the 2 cable wire to the dizzy is getting power the ecu plug is getting power but one connection isnt. The dizzy has electricity running through it inside (taken the cap of and tested the middle point and the one that sticks up) But yet no spark nothing comes through the plug :( Im starting to hate my car :(

Help?

I thought it may be the ecu but i think its mentioned above the ecu cuts out the injectors.

Thanks in advance guys!
 
got any pics? we need to know what age your car is to know if it has nats. if it has nats then that is almost 100% the problem though it should still work with a different engine.

does it have an airbag?
 
Thanks nex... 1996 micra shape, Nats 2. the one with the red chip in the key. Only engine has been swapped nothing else still running same immob and ecu and il getsome pics now
 
nats only cuts the injectors tho eh fwn, you have got the 2 small black earthstraps attached to the inlet mani anderson ? (and the larger one at the other end of the mani)
 
Theres a little black earth near the inlet manifold attached to the block if i rememeber correctly. Any pictures would be a great help :) The block is grounded i know that :)
 
nats only cuts the injectors tho eh fwn, you have got the 2 small black earthstraps attached to the inlet mani anderson ? (and the larger one at the other end of the mani)

i thought the early/later nats killed the ignition?

maybe the engine just doesn't have an earth strap
 
Ive just checked and both grounds are bolted. looking at the picture i posted above labeled missing. The lead off the loom has a gold metal loop that looks like it should be bolted down somewhere is this effecting anything?

Trust me to have the most problems with a simple engine conversion..... Note to anyone before paying someone make sure they can actually do it :(
 
Also if the engine is grounded does that mean the earth strap is on correctly? if i do a earth test using my multimeter touching the engine block and then the earth lead while disconnected from the battery. The multimeter says its earthed.
 
I would check the condition of the two earth points, rub them with some sandpaper to ensure a good connection. Otherwise go back to checking the distributor. Make sure there is the pulse signal to the ecu from the cas, and a pulse signal coming back from the ecu to the dizzy. Otherwise, set the engine to tdc, then backprobe the wire that the ecu earths to make the spark and manually earth it, check for a spark at cylinder 1. Edit: iv got a feeling that the wire should put to positive not earth.
 
Thanks noddie, just i cant understand some things :( how do i check for a pulse what is a cas. how and what is a engine tdc. And backprope? its like your speaking mechanic to I.T guy :p
 
Thanks noddie, just i cant understand some things :( how do i check for a pulse what is a cas. how and what is a engine tdc. And backprope? its like your speaking mechanic to I.T guy :p


Being cheeky a guide to what you have just said would be very nice :) im armed with a multimeter ready to test . Ive got to be in this car next week. as im having to borrow my fathers car insuring it at 45 pounds per week then still paying 30 pounds a week for mine :(
 
can you crank the engine? if the starter motor runs then the engine has a solid earth
 
I would check the condition of the two earth points, rub them with some sandpaper to ensure a good connection. Otherwise go back to checking the distributor. Make sure there is the pulse signal to the ecu from the cas, and a pulse signal coming back from the ecu to the dizzy. Otherwise, set the engine to tdc, then backprobe the wire that the ecu earths to make the spark and manually earth it, check for a spark at cylinder 1. Edit: iv got a feeling that the wire should put to positive not earth.

Im still no further in trying to figure this out :( ive learned the cas is a dizzy i think though :). Ive no clue how to do the rest :down:
 
Tbh mate, its very hard for everyone when they can't get at the car:) did you swap the dizzy from the old engine?
Oh, the cas is cam angle sensor and it is located in the dizzy(distributor).
The pulse signal to the ecu should be an alternating 0-5v current. I'm not sure what the signal from the ecu should look like tbh.
 
i would guess that the cas sends a signal to the ecu at about 45 deg btdc personally, then the ecu will send one back to the coil when it has determined "when" to fire the spark
 
i would guess that the cas sends a signal to the ecu at about 45 deg btdc personally, then the ecu will send one back to the coil when it has determined "when" to fire the spark
Yeah, thats about right:) not sure what the signal from ecu should look like though, pretty sure it energises the little power transister which earths the coil to create the spark.
 
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