Falliure on the engine? Or something else?

B

Badmuts20

Hello guys,

I have a problem with the car.
It makes a wierd noice en runs not wel anymore.
I think he misses an spark on one of the cilinders, but I don't sure.

Last time we have fitted the decat. To fit this one we needed to remove the hole manifold. So maybe the lamdasonde is damage. But I think this has then also be so when we tested the car.

Maybe you guys ca tell wat is hen you hear the sound. I make an movie of the car.

The movie with decat installed, before there where problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6T17taLeTY

The movie with the problems
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lcjCkknGiFU
 
Diagnostics

Hi there i had problems a while back with my k11, we took it for diagnostics and the equipment the mechanic used put the car in to "get you home mode" it runs like crap, has no power and sounds awful, if you have had any ecu diagnostics recently it may be this, it goes away by itself as the computer resets.

i hope i have been helpfull
 
Oke we kan try to leave the battery off for an few hours.
The computer has then to be reset I believe. Some say to put the negative wire from the battery to the positive pole of the battery to reset the computer but I think this is not the right way.

I wil give it an try and we wil see wat happens.
 
Badmuts20 said:
Oke we kan try to leave the battery off for an few hours.
The computer has then to be reset I believe. Some say to put the negative wire from the battery to the positive pole of the battery to reset the computer but I think this is not the right way.

I wil give it an try and we wil see wat happens.
Click to expand...

going by your vids yours is the earlier obd1 ecu system, which have no limp mode
and dont swap any battery leads ffs :eek:
 
What is a "Limp mode"?

If I pull off the positive wire from from the battery and I let this one for an hour off I thought that the ECU has resetted its self.

Its a micra k11 from 1992.
This is the car we talk about.
http://www.micra.org.uk/showthread.php?t=34962
(We didn't change the cams yet)

I have heard I can go to the retailer and let the read out with a computer.
Is this right?
 
Tomorow I'm by the car. I will make a movie from the engine bay en rev the engine up.
On the engine bay does it not sound so bad as from the exhaust.

Where do I find the LED which sould blink?
Because the ECU is in de middele behind the dash under the heater.
Must I remove some panels? Or just go on my head in the food space and look at the ECU? :laugh:

But what can go wrong with the engine when you drive the highway?
We never have the engine open for anything. (not yet grr)
 
Badmuts20 said:
Tomorow I'm by the car. I will make a movie from the engine bay en rev the engine up.
On the engine bay does it not sound so bad as from the exhaust.

Where do I find the LED which sould blink?
Because the ECU is in de middele behind the dash under the heater.
Must I remove some panels? Or just go on my head in the food space and look at the ECU? :laugh:

But what can go wrong with the engine when you drive the highway?
We never have the engine open for anything. (not yet grr)
Click to expand...

the led on the side of the ecu is near the clutch pedal on a right hand drive car, just the 1 plastic trim to remove iirc :)
 
I g try today to count teh flashes off the ECU.
Butt need I to short out pin number 6 (CHK) and 7 (IGN)?
Do I need to putt on the ignition key?
 
Ignition key to position 2. Do not start the engine
Yes IGN to CHK for 2 or 3 seconds.

The engine checklight on the dashboard will flash the error codes.
It flashes long and short and will repeat the error codes until you turn off the ignition key.

For example if you have error 12 and 34.
You will get 1 long flash, 2 short flash, 3 long flash, 4 short flash, 1 long flash, 2 short flash, 3 long flash, 4 short flash, 1 long flash............

Error 55 is no fault found.
 
Damn that should be an expensive joke.
Alright the car should go to the garage. Hope they find the probleem quick and that isn't an expensive repair.
 
I don't now.
I don't have a plugwrench that long. This week I borrow one from a man at my work an I will look at that. It could be that one plugs is defect.
 
has the car lost much performance? when i had bent valves the car was the same apart from the exhaust noise sounding like a subaru
 
Okay,

I have replaced the sparks for some new ones.
No result off the repair. The car sounds still worse.
The sparks look likes this (standing in front of the car):
Left: Spark is really black.
2nd of the left: Spark is less black as left but still much.
2nd of the right: Spark is less black as the 2nd left.
Right: The spark is nice brown.

I have read out the ecu.
It flashes 5 times slow and 5 times quick.
No fault in de ECU.

Tomorrow I wil drive to the nissan dealer and let them do a check. Acoording tot the hayness manual they could see more of the state of the sensors etc.
Maybe they know what the problem is.
Could it be a timing probleem of the ignition?
 
OKay,

Update again.
I have measure the injectors. Three of them are 11 Ohm and one is 650 Ohm.
The injectors should be 10 Ohm. So one of them is broken.
Next week I go to the scrappy to get an replacement.

I hope this is the problem and thet the car wil run again very smootly. :)
 
So guys,

An update again.

I got an replacement injector en placed it in last saturday. The car first starts normaly and runs fine.
After running it an while at stationair rpm's I was go for an testdrive. The car runs fine. I was stopped by an store and would go home and the car runs even worse as before. So it was for an short time. I put also some injector cleaner in the feul tank but it would not have any results.
The car now starts also very worse. If I put the rpm's up and let the throttle lose there are some burst out of the exhaust.

Have you guys some idea what it could be?
Some whorse injection timing?
 
@Helloween
Do You mean the valve cap or the cilinder head?
If you mean the valce cap, how can I see if there is some wrong? All I see then is the timing shafts and the buttons of the valves, right?

@K11micra
I don't want to swap the leads. But losen the negative pole and touch it to the positive. The ECU will lose al his power what is backupped in the condensators. So it will losen al his memmory and should fulley reinstall his memmory with the results it gets from all the sensors.
I know that when I swap the negative and the positive lead the ECU will blow up.

@ Everyone
I have ordered some cabels from ebay so I should could readout the ecu. With Those cabels I should probebly look further in the car and the other sensors.
Anyone have some experiance with this method?
 
Okay Update again.

I have ordered some cabels to read the ECU.
When we read out the ECU it came up with code 11. Crankshaft sensor.
I had made a wire on the sensor wire for my tachometer. The tachometer didn't work everytime fine.

I Made lose the wire for the tachometer. The car now runs so as it should be.

The strange part is that the falt code 11 not visseble is on the read out in de ECU LED.

But for now the cars runs fine so the problem is solved. :)
 
yup we connected the tachometer wire, with a wiresplitter, onto the blue wire that comes out of the dissy. when we read out the ecu the rpm was below 800 rpm and when we took loose the tachometer wire the car stayed around 800-900 rpm. it also had less struggle with revving.
 
Badmuts20 said:
Okay Update again.

I have ordered some cabels to read the ECU.
When we read out the ECU it came up with code 11. Crankshaft sensor.
I had made a wire on the sensor wire for my tachometer. The tachometer didn't work everytime fine.

I Made lose the wire for the tachometer. The car now runs so as it should be.

The strange part is that the falt code 11 not visseble is on the read out in de ECU LED.

But for now the cars runs fine so the problem is solved. :)
Click to expand...

Same problem as i had, crankshaft sensor:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPkNZaFvfMM

Replace the distributor and now runs fine.
 

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