erratic idle and runs like a haunted outhouse - Help oh wise ones of Nissans

[CMF_sisu]

The car is a k11 1.0 cg10de 5 spd manual with eccs. I live in Finland, the car is Scandnavian spec, so no a/c, no power steering, but heated seats, power plug for auxillary heating.
It was a gift from a family member, sort of like a gift that just keeps on giving.
It has done 252,000km and although I have a UK Haynes Manual it doesn't cover my car for this problem. The car starts ok. It then idles at 1500-2000rpm. When you drive it has a lack of power at light throttle, and then surges like you are about to run out of fuel. When it is up to operating temperature it has the same problems, the idle will still be high(1500rpm) and lack of power, blipping the throttle at the lights or driving hard will not alter this. I have changed the air filter, run a fuel additive, no change. The exhaust has black soot and it is using alot of fuel for a 1 litre car. It can run a little better with a full tank of fuel, but not always. Also it has black smoke on start up and runs rough, but only when it has been plugged in, eg it is minus 10 deg C, the heater warms the interior heater, then this heats the engine coolant. I know this is an Aussie forum, This may help explain this regional difference.
www.parkingheater.com/int-products/functionality.html
I haven't had the black smoke with other cars though..

My next step will be to change the fuel filter and then the spark plugs. Note the car is standard and I am using official Nissan parts.

Any suggestions?

 

[CMF_SFJ]

http://www.micra.com.au/technical-articles/cg13de-throttle-body-resoldering-guide.php
or
lambda sensor ..

 

[CMF_rowstar]

yes try the article above^^^

mine had exactly the same problem that you described. i did this fix a few weeks ago and it fixed it perfectly. i simply reheated the solder at 6 points. cost me $10 for a soldering iron. nissan wanted to charge me $1000 for a new throttle body! this saved me a lot of cash.

 

[CMF_sisu]

Followed the steps in the throttle body resolder, seems to have cured the high idle and running issues. I am now going to run the car to see if the fuel usage has improved. The next thing will be to change the plugs. Thanks for the help

 

[CMF_sisu]

Changed the plugs, said 3 hail maries and thrashed the ring outta it. After leaving a large plume of black smoke on some Volvo when I joined the motorway it now is smoother than ever.

 

[CMF_asdame]

cleaning the Idle Air Valve unit in front of the TB also helps resolve the slow when cold/fast when warm idle issue.

 

[CMF_sisu]

I drove the car to a friends place and the fuel got low (between 1/4 and red) and the running issues have reoccured. I refilled it in the vain hope that it would change it, it didn't. Would the best thing be to change the fuel filter. I am loathed to change the Lambda probe as apart from the cost, the exhaust system is corroded and it will be as tight as a nuns nasty after all the salt on the road.

 

[CMF_sisu]

Any suggestions on this

 

[CMF_nz_aj]

You have a MAF problem.
If you can't successfully fix it yourself, there are people who can. You can get them fixed in NZ on exchange for about NZ$240.
Or you can buy a new one from nissan, about NZ$500.
I'd imagine prices should be similar in Finland.

As well as resoldering, the board interconnector can be a problem. See here
http://k11wiki.com/index.php?title=Throttlebody_/_MAF_/_Idle_control#MAF_repairs

Another common aggravating factor can be a faulty temperature sender (the one to the ECU, not the gauge).
http://k11wiki.com/index.php?title=Temperature_sender

And the idle control may need cleaning. It's been commented that o-rings may need a bit of lube after cleaning.
http://k11wiki.com/index.php?title=Throttlebody_/_MAF_/_Idle_control#Cleaning_the_idle_control_valve

 

[CMF_sisu]

Thanks for the tips, I can't see any pictures on the links thou.
Tonite I went out and cleaned the idle control valve. Slightly darkend by carbon, but nothing that would stop anything moving. I cleaned it, reassembled everything and then started it (from cold). The idle was jumping still. I went around and made sure I hadn't left anything loose or disconnected. When I reached around to the left hand side of the throttle body I moved the wiring. It went back to normal. So I moved the wiring again and it revved to 5000rpm. Then it went back to the erratic idle.

 

[CMF_deNs]

sisu WROTE:

"Thanks for the tips, I can't see any pictures on the links thou.

My hosting stuffed up and I haven't managed to get the images working again.. so for now just follow the text that nz_aj's entered in there while I try and solve the issue.

---dens

 

[CMF_sisu]

must be black cause it is nite time huh

 

[CMF_sisu]

Well I have checked things out, I have also had other blokes offer their advice, one suggested that it was an air leak. This would sound right as I can get it to run smooth when I have the air box off and I cup my hand over the manifold restricting the airflow.