Engine Idles at 600RPM, stalls easily.

[K-Leven]

I need it a little higher to have better control on the clutch. With the seat its furthest back, and the huge steering wheel and my lanky-legs-11with knees cocked either side, I am not great at controlling it.

I wanted to know if this idle rpm was normal, and if it isn't, how I could possibly fix it please?

My test is on Thursday and I'm doing it in my k11. I would be better able to perform all of the manoeuvres and such if it doesn't strangle the engine at the first 5mm of clutch bite, makes the constant idle shuddering way more pronounced. I over throttle to compensate and that can be fine, however, it makes me sound like I'm revving the tits off my car when I'm leaving lights and stuff, it also makes the car feel really jerky and twitchy, even when I'm being as smooth as I possibly can be.

I have seen a screw you can use to change the idle RPM on this site (which I am slowly learning is the most definitive source of information on this vehicle available anywhere), do I turn it clockwise or anti clockwise, and must I remove any parts from the car to get to it?

Essentially, I'm starting to blame the car for what I think is genuinely its fault, not just my L plate driving.

I appreciate your answers on this topic a great deal, since I can't really have the car in bits in between full time work tomorrow night, and commuting to full time work! If its a screw driver job I'm all ears.

Thanks.

 

[skymera]

600 is too low. 800-850 is normal.

 

[frank]

what year k11 ?

 

[K-Leven]

what year k11 ?

2001

 

[Matiz]

turn it both sides, you I"ll see, you won't harm it.

you have to remove the filter box, its about 1 or 2 nuts, an vaccum hose and hose clamp at air inlet.

you can adjust te clutch pedal too... not sure, I'll check in manual, but most cars have adjust screw. You can adjust the pedal "pre load", dunno how to say it, the distance where you tightering the clutch cable before clucth starts to move. Depends on car but sometimes it can be even set to "instatnt" engaging, but imo its uncofortable

another thing- there should be another adjust nut at clutch arm at the gearbox, but again, I'm too fresh with micras, didn't checked this too.

but if you'll try to adjust the clutch make some marks at threads to back them to "default"

 

[frank]

2001

the coilpack throttlebody has no form of manual adjustment, you probably need to plug in an obd2 diagnosis setup

 

[K-Leven]

the coilpack throttlebody has no form of manual adjustment, you probably need to plug in an obd2 diagnosis setup

Heres what happened as it happened frank.

Removed airbox and exposed the TB.
Saw that my throttle cable was very slack (about 1cm give before tension), redid the nuts on the threads that gauge how close cables end is to TB.
Accidentally did them a bit too much, thinking raising the actually throttle level was a good way to fix the idle. Quickly realised how stupid this was, and then reset the throttle cable to an improved position were there is no slack but idle is still low (started hunting for rpm up and down while idling when it was too taut)

Still idles at low RPM but I'm only a n00b and my test is in 12 hours, can't be destroying the thing before I drive it. Afterwards however, I will be waiting a month before I can insure and run it myself, in that time my car and be fiddled.

I think this is just how it is naturally! I feel maybe I should just leave it. ps. Its a Y542 plate? Does that mean I got the year wrong?

Also, I will be looking to buy an OBD2. Thanks.

 

[K-Leven]

turn it both sides, you I"ll see, you won't harm it.

you have to remove the filter box, its about 1 or 2 nuts, an vaccum hose and hose clamp at air inlet.

you can adjust te clutch pedal too... not sure, I'll check in manual, but most cars have adjust screw. You can adjust the pedal "pre load", dunno how to say it, the distance where you tightering the clutch cable before clucth starts to move. Depends on car but sometimes it can be even set to "instatnt" engaging, but imo its uncofortable

another thing- there should be another adjust nut at clutch arm at the gearbox, but again, I'm too fresh with micras, didn't checked this too.

but if you'll try to adjust the clutch make some marks at threads to back them to "default"

I did have a good look Matiz, and I have found that I might be getting out of my depth very quickly if I start fiddling with things now. I will wait for a better time, thank you for the advice. I would also like to make the bite point of the clutch closer to the floor but I don't want to break anything. Learn first, break afterwards.