EGR replaced but...

Well I've fitted a new EGR valve, but it doesn't seem to have solved the main issue I had.

The engine still stutters and jerks at 1500rpm, which is exactly 30mph in town - not exactly handy.

I would say it does run slightly smoother, idle and pick up seems a little better, but little else has changed.

Because the old EGR wasn't especially filthy I didn't remove the metal pipe to clean it out - is it likely to make any difference?

It's fully serviced, and injector cleaner has been run through. It starts easily hot or cold. It doesn't use any oil, and doesn't appear to throw out filthy smoke. It pulls well from any speed.

Any suggestions?
 
i would delete the egr personally

EGR deleting is particularly dangerous on Diesel engines because you can so easily change the temperature distribution within the turbo under load and prematurely cause the faliure of main turbo bearings. This is less of a risk in a petrol

Is there any air in your fuel line runninginto the high pressure pump? A large amount of air here will indicate a fuel problem. Or potentially you could connect an OBD scanner and make sure youre getting consistent MAF readings as an issue with this could cause what youre describing?

Best of luck
Ricky
 
EGR deleting is particularly dangerous on Diesel engines because you can so easily change the temperature distribution within the turbo under load and prematurely cause the faliure of main turbo bearings. This is less of a risk in a petrol

Is there any air in your fuel line runninginto the high pressure pump? A large amount of air here will indicate a fuel problem. Or potentially you could connect an OBD scanner and make sure youre getting consistent MAF readings as an issue with this could cause what youre describing?

Best of luck
Ricky
wut ?? the egr is held closed under load anyway, and only open at idle and low load
 
Do you get any fault codes when a OBDII reader is plugged in?
I had very similar problems in my Saab 9-3 TiD, that eventually led to an engine management light and 'limp home mode', which I finally tracked down to the throttle position sensor in the throttle body. While stripping and cleaning the throttle body briefly 'cured' it, a new throttle body was the answer and since fitting one I have had no recurrence of the problem........
 
Thanks for your replies guys.

I've read a lot on EGR blanking, but since the cost of replacement was low £38 new) it hardly seemed worth the hassle.

There are no faults stored - the eml light came on at first, due to me not getting the plug on properly...

I don't think there's any air getting in - the clear fuel pipe seems bubble free, and the bulb seems firm.

Given the inner wing corrosion I've just found, I don't think I'll spend any more on it, just drive it until the MOT is up - can't see it being worth welding it. That's if the timing belt doesn't let go meantime...
 
Thanks for your replies guys.

I've read a lot on EGR blanking, but since the cost of replacement was low £38 new) it hardly seemed worth the hassle.

There are no faults stored - the eml light came on at first, due to me not getting the plug on properly...

I don't think there's any air getting in - the clear fuel pipe seems bubble free, and the bulb seems firm.

Given the inner wing corrosion I've just found, I don't think I'll spend any more on it, just drive it until the MOT is up - can't see it being worth welding it. That's if the timing belt doesn't let go meantime...

A man with a plan, ditch the K12 liability for K11 reliability would be mine? ;)
 
And the inevitable major rust problems?...:rolleyes:


Nothing is inevitable about rust problems for those with eyes to inspect, test, assess & know where to look & what they are looking at?

I recently bought two 20year olds almost totally rust free K11s, all good order with a Years MOT w/o any advisories for cheap as chips depreciation free & minimal maintenance costs motoring for years to come. :cool:

Referance; https://www.micra.org.uk/threads/a-day-in-the-life-of-a-fire-engine-red-k11.68197/
 
EGR deleting is particularly dangerous on Diesel engines because you can so easily change the temperature distribution within the turbo under load and prematurely cause the faliure of main turbo bearings. This is less of a risk in a petrol

Is there any air in your fuel line runninginto the high pressure pump? A large amount of air here will indicate a fuel problem. Or potentially you could connect an OBD scanner and make sure youre getting consistent MAF readings as an issue with this could cause what youre describing?

Best of luck
Ricky

I've just realised the significance of this comment - maf sensor? Didn't even know it had one! Wherein earth is it? My last car ran better with it unplugged, showing the maf was faulty - will the same trick work here?
 
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