can someone change my cam belt?

H

hazzeryoda

Hi all,

My cam belt needs changing. In fact, it has needed changing for a good while. Its 22yrs old, done 75K and there's nothing on the engine to say it's had a new belt. Ever...

I have new belt and water pump (where should I get a cheap tensioner from and how much?) and was planning on doing it myself but I have recently moved and don't have the tools where I am at the moment... Plus my new job means I have to do quite a few miles and I don't want to risk the thing snapping...

Can anyone help me out by possibly doing it for me?
I live in Guildford but can also be in Stratford-on-Avon at any given weekend...
Obviously, I'd reimburse someone for it!

On the other hand, what do I need to do the change myself? Socket set, adjustable spanners and a jack? Any more than that?

Let me know what you think,

H
 
I can do it for you if you want. Just bring it to the workshop, its not far from you at all. (chertsey)

Email me if your interested.
 
Hey all,

I had a go at the belt change today and got stuck trying to get the crankshaft pulley bolt off. Absolutely jammed solid on (22yrs old) tried lots of techniques, jamming a spanner through the spokes, standing on the brakes, hammer on the wrench, sharp pulling etc and the ####### won't come loose.

Any ideas? I didn't have any WD40 handy but I doubt it would have made that much of a difference really...

Ed, is there any chance of using your air gun at the shop to undo the bolt? From then on I think I can do it myself...

Bit of a bummer although changed my alternator belt while at it so not all bad...
H
 
the trick is to use a LONG wrench

i used a long torque wrench and had a breaker bar pushed through the spokes of the pulley.....I had to fold back the plastic engine splash guard first to get good access I worked from under the front bumper with the car rased on axel stands


IMO the WORST part of the timing belt change is removing the engine mount bracket from the engine (in order to get good access to remove the timing belt coverrs).......there are three bolts holding this on and getting good access to these is beeeeeeaaaaaattchhh
 
Hello,

I'm French, so excuse me if my English have any mistakes.
I have the same problem : I want to change the timing belt of my k10 (1990 - about 190 000 km) but I have been stopped by the crankshaft pulley. I can't move it. I bought the technical book (in English), but it's just written something like "remove the pulley"... and that's all grr ! ! But how ?
And I can't find any system to block hardly the crankshaft : only with the brake and by getting a gear.

So, thanks a lot for any board.

Arnaud

Hello Sammohung,
But, how did you block the crankshaft ? I can't see any spokes of the pulley. There is the pulley for the alternator belt but without it is without spoke.
I tried by put the gear 5 and handbrake, but I managed to move the car without unscrew the bolt ! I used a long torque wrench too.

Arnaud
 
Arnaud, try these suggestions for inspiration to start with. Unfortnately though, they have not helped me yet.

http://www.micra.org.uk/archive/index.php/t-3747.html


Sammo, I've tried everything, even to the point of busting the ratchet on my socket handle...

would WD40 really make a difference?
Thing is, for the age of the car, it's just not worth forking out mechanic rates to do the change...

Getting annoyed now...

H
 
not sure if it is fiesable (sp) but could u heat it with blowtorch then cool bolt with wd40. this would mean the thread would be expanded and the bolt would contract losening it. has worked for me before on other things.
 
No blowtorch unfortunately..

How much would a one-man mechanic type bloke charge to do this if i supplied all the parts?

Ed from Fusion has said £100 - does this make sense?

H
 

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Thank you, Hazzeryoda, for this link.
So I followed the good way, but I think it will be easier with a friend.
I will try next week end and give some news after...

Bye
Arnaud

Ok Frank, I note your solution too ... and will test it too.

Thanks for your answers
 
Shocking the bold with either an air impact driver or a socket on a long bar will do it, when I undid my K11 one I had me dangling off the end of a 4' bar putting pressure on the nut while someone else hit the socket driver with a BIG hammer.
 
sonic

i can believe it, but k10 are only about 1/2 the torque setting of a k11
a speedbrace and lump hammer got my flywheel bolts out a treat (same lbft)
 
Careful, don't put any kind of bar through the pully to "wedge" against the belt casing because I cracked the belt casing on one of my cars by doing that.

Use an air gun I would suggest - give your nearest mechanic a fiver to use his. You can get to the pully if you turn the wheels full lock left without removing the road wheels.

If you can't do that, stand on the brakes and take the above advice about a breaker bar.
 
has anyone tried the old "wedge the breaker bar on the nut and and crank the starter" method on a micra?

I've never tried it (and I hope I don't bloody have to either, I'm of a nervous disposition!) but many folk in the Toyota world use this as a last resort, it usually works too.

Be careful though- i dont even fancy trying that one myself.
 
I managed to remove the pulley finally.
As we said, the problem is how to block the crankshaft.
I have had the solution : the flying wheel. But you need 2 more hands !
There are some holes in the flying wheel and we can use them :
- remove the starter motor
- turn the crankshaft (with the nut of the pulley of the crankshaft) until you see some holes in the flying wheel) - look across the hole of the starter motor
- ask your friend to block the flying wheel, with pointed end of the wheel nut wrench
-in the same time, you can unscrew the bolt and use all your "muscle force".

The Frank's idea is very usefull : use an axlestand to rest the extension of the nut wrench. It's easier to unscrew across the wheel arch.

I didn't have time to refit all. I spent about 1 hour to clean the surface of the water pump place...


Arnaud

**----***
Ah, I forgot.
I changed the water pump.
The book writes about the refitting of the bollts:" these bolts must be fitted using sealing compound on their threads or water leaks will be apparent after assembly".

What is sealing compound ? Where could I find it ? I think it 's something like a dough... Shall I use any silicon dough for the bathroom for exemple ?
And what is water leaks ?
And why it will be apparent after assembly and where should I have to see it ?

Arnaud
 
any gasket sealer will work. And I have never put it on the threads. Around the pump has always been fine for me.
 

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