a somewhat silly question

[Hazara]

Hello everyone,

Yesterday I noticed my passenger side front caliper is somewhat binding.

Now the question is what type of grease/lubricant do I need to used on the pins and caliper piston?
How to lubricate the rear brake shoes without touching the face of them? I mean the touching points

Regards

 

[r-reg-sr]

high temp grease
they slightly grease the back of the pads ,search google.

you got 8 pads 4 disks

 

[Hazara]

high temp grease
they slightly grease the -ack of the pads ,search google.

you got 8 pads 4 disks

Thanks R-REG-SR,

The rear is drum brake. So 4 pads and 2 disks 4 shoe and 2 drums. Is that right?

Regards

 

[frank]

it may not be the guide pins hakim, the last 2 sticking calipers i fixed had rust on the ring arrowed

 

[r-reg-sr]

oh,,,,the drum ABS ?

 

[Hazara]

it may not be the guide pins hakim, the last 2 sticking calipers i fixed had rust on the ring arrowed

View attachment 23457

View attachment 23458

Thanks frank,

I was thinking of doing the bits. I did think of that but since I can not(I think) fix it, by removing the piston and replacing the ring and tube I just ignored it.

How easy is it to fix it the way you did? Will I be able to do it?

Regards

 

[Hazara]

oh,,,,the drum ABS ?

No this is the "Burt" . The ABS is the other one which needs a pair trailig arm link.

Regards

 

[frank]

Thanks frank,

Will I be able to do it?

Regards

you,ve done alright so far mate
i pumped the piston out with the pedal and then clamped the flexi hose with molegrips (gently)
then scraped the rust off with a stanley knife
the piston then moved in and out freely
that ring is the same dia as the cylinder, so any rust will seize the piston (and it does,nt have the fluid there to keep it rust free)

 

[Hazara]

you,ve done alright so far mate
i pumped the piston out with the pedal and then clamped the flexi hose with molegrips (gently)
then scraped the rust off with a stanley knife
the piston then moved in and out freely
that ring is the same dia as the cylinder, so any rust will seize the piston (and it does,nt have the fluid there to keep it rust free)

Many thanks frank,

Let me recap the process:

1. Press the piddle to move the piston out.
2. Clamp the the hose to stop the fluid dripping away.
3. Use a knife to remove the rust.

The question is by pressing the peddle will everything come out including the covering tube?

Regards

 

[frank]

yes mate (pedal btw )
the rubber boot is held in by the piston, so you have to fit that before the piston (a tad awkward, but doable)
then release the clamp and open the nipple till the fluid trickles out (usually no need to actually bleed it)

 

[r-reg-sr]

No this is the "Burt" . The ABS is the other one which needs a pair trailig arm link.Regards

collecting them up?
Burt is doing the bandit run,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Hazara]

yes mate (pedal btw )
the rubber boot is held in by the piston, so you have to fit that before the piston (a tad awkward, but doable)
then release the clamp and open the nipple till the fluid trickles out (usually no need to actually bleed it)

Many thanks frank,

I will try if stack will be counting on your as ever.

Regatds

 

[Hazara]

collecting them up?
Burt is doing the bandit run,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Lol,

Sort of.

Burt is the written off which is coming back on the road. Bought the other one in an emergency before the fate of Burt was desired. Now it is broken can not sold off.

Regards

 

[r-reg-sr]

why trailing arms?

 

[Hazara]

why trailing arms?

Well, the panhard rod was broken and noticed that the axle is corroded too. Bought the ABS axle but unfortunately without the trailing arm. While putting axle on, noticed the bolt was seized. After using a little force the bush gave way. Now got spare axle with no trailing arm and the trailing arm on the existing axle is not use able. Declared SORN waiting for trailing arm or bush.

Regards

 

[r-reg-sr]

Good invention

 

[Hazara]

yes mate (pedal btw )
the rubber boot is held in by the piston, so you have to fit that before the piston (a tad awkward, but doable)
then release the clamp and open the nipple till the fluid trickles out (usually no need to actually bleed it)

Hi Frank,

Couple of more questions please:

1. How to replace the CV boot? (The Haynes manual way is really difficult. I have seen some one did very easy)
2. How to remove the side strips/bumps? Will the paint be damaged by removing them?

Regards

 

[frank]

couple of C/V threads here hakim http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=59094
and if the paint is original you can just pull them off

 

[Hazara]

couple of C/V threads here hakim http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=59094
and if the paint is original you can just pull them off

Thanks frank,

I have read that one before, but what I did not understand is the clamping and smacking inwards the shaft!
Since the CV boot is no arrived yet, I can not do anything. As soon as it arrives I will asking so many questions.

Regards

 

[Hazara]

couple of C/V threads here hakim http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=59094
and if the paint is original you can just pull them off

Hi frank,

A question about the 30mm socket that is required for the hub nut:

Searched the amazon and there lots of them and don't know which one to buy! Is this one okay?

Edit: Do I need a bar as well? what type?

Regards

 

[frank]

thats a 1/2" drive one yeh, but you will bust a ratchet on a driveshaft nut tho (2 foot breakerbar needed )
and some shaftnuts are 32mm btw !

 

[Hazara]

thats a 1/2" drive one yeh, but you will bust a ratchet on a driveshaft nut tho (2 foot breakerbar needed )
and some shaftnuts are 32mm btw !

Very many thanks frank,

Will this one do or shall I buy this one or this one?

Regards

 

[frank]

Very many thanks frank,

Will this one do or shall I buy this one or this one?

Regards

chrome vanadium , or else a cheap 3/4 drive

 

[Hazara]

chrome vanadium , or else a cheap 3/4 drive

Thanks frank,

Do the breaker bar come in chrome vanadium as well?
What id the difference of 1/2" and 3/4 driver?

Regards

Edit:After reading the description the Sealey 600mm one is chrome vanadium and Am-Tech is hardened still.
I think I got the difference for the 1/2" and 3//3 as well! the first one weaker then the 2nd one right?

Regards

 

[frank]

177nm is near the limit of 1/2" drive kit hakim, but a chrome vanadium breaker bar "should" survive.
i use 3/4" drive sockets and a 3/4" breaker bar for that sort of heavy duty stuff

 

[h701micra]

My 1/2" breaker bar survives nicely

 

[Hazara]

177nm is near the limit of 1/2" drive kit hakim, but a chrome vanadium breaker bar "should" survive.
i use 3/4" drive sockets and a 3/4" breaker bar for that sort of heavy duty stuff

Very many thanks frank,

After reading the description of the sealey 600mm breaker bar it was some what clear but to the extent you have explained.

Regards

 

[Hazara]

couple of C/V threads here hakim http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=59094
and if the paint is original you can just pull them off

Hi Frank,

Got this tool set and arrived yesterday. The hub nut was not a 30mm but a 27mm and used the sliding bar in the tool set to open it open really easily. But the other two bolts were a bit harder.

Tried to removed the drive shaft but stack. Here is the video. And here the 2nd video.

Do I have to remove the caliper as well?
There is some other thing underneath as well. When I pull it is moving from the gear box!

Please help

Regards

 

[frank]

have you got the steering on full lock hakim ?

 

[Hazara]

have you got the steering on full lock hakim ?

Thanks frank,

No, it is straight

Regards

 

[frank]

Thanks frank,

No, it is straight

Regards

it should give you more room on full lock mate

 

[Hazara]

it should give you more room on full lock mate

Thanks frank,

A full lock either side or there is any preference?

Will try it tomorrow afternoon.

Regards

 

[frank]

it pushes the trackrod outwards hakim, so that the shaft comes out the hub easier

 

[Hazara]

it pushes the trackrod outwards hakim, so that the shaft comes out the hub easier

Hi Frank,

I did it on full lock, it is not coming out please help I am stuck. Here is the video.

Regards

 

[frank]

is that lefthand down full lock hakim ?

 

[h701micra]

Undo the wishbone instead it'll be easier

 

[Hazara]

is that lefthand down full lock hakim ?

Thanks frank,

No, it is right hand(driver side) full lock

Regards

 

[frank]

Thanks frank,

No, it is right hand(driver side) full lock

Regards

try the other one mate

 

[Hazara]

Undo the wishbone instead it'll be easier

Thanks h701micra,

It did occur to me as well but I was trying to do with minimal bolts unscrewed if possible. I will that as a last resort.

Regards

 

[Hazara]

try the other one mate

Thanks frank,

That did the trick. Its out now.
It is very greasy. Is it normal or the last boot change was not tightened enough?

Regards

 

[frank]

Thanks frank,

That did the trick. Its out now.
It is very greasy. Is it normal or the last boot change was not tightened enough?

Regards

aye c/v,s are a very messy job mate

 

[Hazara]

aye c/v,s are a very messy job mate

Thanks frank,

Yest it is quite messy. But what I have noticed is that the big end of the cv boot near the hub, outside of the clips that is holding the boot tight, is quite greasy. Here is the video after quite a bit of cleaning.

I will complete the job tomorrow if its not raining. It seems that I have to struggle removing the CV joint.

Is it necessary to hit it with mallet? or there is an easy way to removed it?

Regards

 

[frank]

yeh , just smack it mate

 

[Hazara]

yeh , just smack it mate T

View attachment 23808

Thanks a bunch frank,

It seems that I was better off buying one of those cones from J&R.

Regards

 

[frank]

good price eh you still have to remove the c/v from the hub tho

 

[Hazara]

good price eh you still have to remove the c/v from the hub tho

Yes, that is right. removing the CV from the hub is easier compared to the messy Joint and putting it back together. With cone it seems much easier.

I have ordered this one. Will be delivered on Wednesday.

Regards

 

[Guy]

1. Press the piddle to move the piston out.

I had a vision of the two British airmen from 'Allo, 'allo when I read that sentence .