L.Williams
soundcloud.com/lwilliamsmusic
thinking of getting 20mm for rear, 10mm for front, and was wondering do i ned to extend the wheel bolts?
20mm wheel spacers? do i need to extend my wheel bolts? or will it be fine ?
- Thread starter L.Williams
- Start date
You certainly won't need any bolts (Threaded hole in the hub and long bolt through the wheel into the hole). The K11 micra has studs and nuts (threaded bar attatched to the car, that the wheel passes over and then a nut screws down onto the wheel).
Safest? (the only allowable method of spacing in most motosport) is to fit extended studs, have a spacer that slots over and then the wheel fits over the extended stud and seats on the spacer. With the nut tightening down on top of that. It is best that these spacers are also Hubcentric (the centre hole in the spacer fits snugly to the centre spigot of the hub, with a simmilarly size protrousion (spigot) on the front face to help the wheel tighten centrally.
All other techniques require futher fixings to be used, increasing the chance of failure.
Imho, the next best would be a spacer that fixes onto the hub that then has another set of stud or bolt holes offset 45 degrees. Often called Bolt on spacers - but their design varies to include studs or bolt holes. These can also be bought as pcd adaptors, to change the PCD of the vehical - opening up a whole world of interesting and exciting wheel possibilities. (see the civic sedan in this months Fast Car mag)
Next would be stud extensions/spacers - A threaded extension screws onto the stud, providing an extended externally threaded section. I've rarely heard a good word said about these, though have no personal experience. Several on here have used them without problems.
Pics are all for illustration purposes of the theory, they are not a suggested possible product!
There's some info on replacing studs here, about a third of the way down the first page. The front is pretty much the same, but easier because there is more access from behind - just remember to hang the brake caliper from the spring with some wire or chunky cable ties so that the flexi pipe and fittings isn't put under tension.
Safest? (the only allowable method of spacing in most motosport) is to fit extended studs, have a spacer that slots over and then the wheel fits over the extended stud and seats on the spacer. With the nut tightening down on top of that. It is best that these spacers are also Hubcentric (the centre hole in the spacer fits snugly to the centre spigot of the hub, with a simmilarly size protrousion (spigot) on the front face to help the wheel tighten centrally.
All other techniques require futher fixings to be used, increasing the chance of failure.
Imho, the next best would be a spacer that fixes onto the hub that then has another set of stud or bolt holes offset 45 degrees. Often called Bolt on spacers - but their design varies to include studs or bolt holes. These can also be bought as pcd adaptors, to change the PCD of the vehical - opening up a whole world of interesting and exciting wheel possibilities. (see the civic sedan in this months Fast Car mag)
Next would be stud extensions/spacers - A threaded extension screws onto the stud, providing an extended externally threaded section. I've rarely heard a good word said about these, though have no personal experience. Several on here have used them without problems.
Pics are all for illustration purposes of the theory, they are not a suggested possible product!
There's some info on replacing studs here, about a third of the way down the first page. The front is pretty much the same, but easier because there is more access from behind - just remember to hang the brake caliper from the spring with some wire or chunky cable ties so that the flexi pipe and fittings isn't put under tension.
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L.Williams
soundcloud.com/lwilliamsmusic
yeah sorry, i did mean the studs, so how would i go about finding the extended studs? i want 25mm rear, 10mm frontYou certainly won't need any bolts (Threaded hole in the hub and long bolt through the wheel into the hole). The K11 micra has studs and nuts (threaded bar attatched to the car, that the wheel passes over and then a nut screws down onto the wheel).
Safest? (the only allowable method of spacing in most motosport) is to fit extended studs, have a spacer that slots over and then the wheel fits over the extended stud and seats on the spacer. With the nut tightening down on top of that. It is best that these spacers are also Hubcentric (the centre hole in the spacer fits snugly to the centre spigot of the hub, with a simmilarly size protrousion (spigot) on the front face to help the wheel tighten centrally.
All other techniques require futher fixings to be used, increasing the chance of failure.
Imho, the next best would be a spacer that fixes onto the hub that then has another set of stud or bolt holes offset 45 degrees. Often called Bolt on spacers - but their design varies to include studs or bolt holes. These can also be bought as pcd adaptors, to change the PCD of the vehical - opening up a whole world of interesting and exciting wheel possibilities. (see the civic sedan in this months Fast Car mag)
Next would be stud extensions/spacers - A threaded extension screws onto the stud, providing an extended externally threaded section. I've rarely heard a good word said about these, though have no personal experience. Several on here have used them without problems.
Pics are all for illustration purposes of the theory, they are not a suggested possible product!
There's some info on replacing studs here, about a third of the way down the first page. The front is pretty much the same, but easier because there is more access from behind - just remember to hang the brake caliper from the spring with some wire or chunky cable ties so that the flexi pipe and fittings isn't put under tension.
I used E-bay - 14.3mm spline IIRC, then buy the length you need.
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L.Williams
soundcloud.com/lwilliamsmusic
so just type in 14.3mm spline iirc ?
iirc = if i remember correctly, it's got nothing to do with the studs.
Just had a search and it looks like it was 14.3. Often listed as Nissan/Subaru type with M12x1.25 thread.
Just had a search and it looks like it was 14.3. Often listed as Nissan/Subaru type with M12x1.25 thread.
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L.Williams
soundcloud.com/lwilliamsmusic
ohh haha thanks, and okay man! big help! i'll follow you for that lol
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L.Williams
soundcloud.com/lwilliamsmusic
quick Q, how do i remove my studs that are already on, so i dont go buying new ones then not being able to fit them ?
frank
Club Member
bash em out the back
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L.Williams
soundcloud.com/lwilliamsmusic
really?bash em out the back
skymera
Brutal Honesty
I think they're just pushed into the back of the hub so yeah get a mer and give them a whack
Ahh i did find those... thought they were standard length though?
I was under the impression standard length was 40mm?
Tbh i hadnt checked the figures, just others that just said "stud replacement" were 62mm long. I haven't been able to find a standard guide for them, even allparts down the road didnt have a clue lol
