Turbo PSI rating -----------

A question here !!! how would i know OR how do i adjust for the actautor to run at 7-8 psi, what tools is needed to check its correct?


Cheers

J
 
Think your after a manual boost controller, but your actuator must have a lower opening pressure than the 7-8 psi you've stated

I think lol
 
Plumb up a boost gauge and foot to the floor, stock springs can maybe be around that psi but if not a stronger/weaker spring needs fitted or use a boost controller
 
ok, my turbo and actuator did come from an Ford Escort RS Turbo, not sure what PSI that car runs as standard otherwise if i were to floor it with a guage and see that bosst pass 7 upwards pass 8 psi, im looking at internal engine damage, i want to keep the PSI to minimum that the standard engine can take.....

J
 
Im only saying how you could find out. Why do you need to know anyway? I didnt know what i was running for 7 months until i had the car remapped
 
how to find the amount of boost produced? fit a pressure gauge.

how to alter the boost? two/three things to consider:
1. the natural/stable boost level is determined by the wastegate actuator spring. there's alot of science in balancing between how much the actuator moves per PSI of boost vs how much exhaust energy is wasted via the WG. all sorts of variables including spring rate, preload, natural length, etc etc.
generally lower spring rate = earlier WG opening = lower peak boost

2. all boost controllers basically delay/manipulate the boost feed going to the actuator to keep the WG shut long as possible so turbine receives 100% exhaust pressure to either improve spool response and/or increase boost above the actuators intended pressure. once the boost feed reaches the actuator, its still up to the spring to determine how much the WG opens.

3. all turbos have a certain efficiency range shown by their compressor maps and matching the right turbo size, set with the right peak boost, to work with a certain engines gas flow is very important.
too small = only good for low-end, runs out of steam or restricts at the high-end.
too big = high boost threshold, very laggy, can reach high boost which might exceed engine capacity

setting peak boost too low on the compressor map (under-working the turbo) = laggy, wasted potential
setting peak boost too high on the compressor map (over-working the turbo) = inefficient, just heats up the air, potential turbine failure from over-spooling

I think ideally a turbo would be regulated by a fast & accurate solenoid controlled WG actuator rather than an old fashioned pneumatic sprung plunger but they're prob not as reliable and might be why all turbos stuck with the reliable old method
 
Thanks for your replys, fitting a gauge , yes i guess its the only way maybe there is another, i have a heavy foot and if i enjoy what i feel from the car i might get too happy exceeding the PSI that the car is happy and stable with!, ill just have to play around i guess, thanks for the info pollyp.. will be updating the turbos thread soon!!! mapping will probably get done in a couple months.

J
 
you can use a footpump to blow into the actuator J but those gauges are usually pretty inaccurate tho
here,s how the actuator moves with a footpump J, the 1st one is without a manual boost controller ( the rod moves well before the psi setting, and its only the preload that holds it shut)
and the 2nd one is delayed by the boost controller :)



 
thats just a normal 8psi actuator J, and the slow closing is just the pressure being held in the pipes
its the opening pressure that you,re trying to stabilise :)
 
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