removing cv joints

CMF_lam.666

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for anyone who doesnt have the factory service manual, here's a brief write up for removing the cvs from the k11.

use the following information at your own risk, i've never done this before but this is what i did.

the cars cv's were both rooted, replace these ones with the ones from the wreck.

*note* if your removing the passenger side cv DUMP THE GEARBOX OIL

tools you'll need:

jack
jack stands
breaker bar
30mm socket
pliers
a socket set
a spanner set

loosen the nuts on the wheels in an opposite action,
jack the car up,
and secure it with the jack stands,
remove the wheels

references from the picture from the drivers side:

1.
-remove what i think is the circlip, and the funny looking 30mm nut cover.
-get someone to hold the brake and use the breaker bar with the 30mm socket to remove the 30mm nut, once removed there's a washer behind it
2 & 3.
-remove the 2 17mm bolts from behind the brakes
4.
-remove the clip thats holding the brake line
5.
-remove the circlip and the 17mm bolt from what i think is the steering rack rod.
6 & 7 & 8.
-remove the the suspension, you can do this in which ever way you like, i found it abit more easier by removing the nuts off the bolts at 6 then removing the 2 bolts on top of the strut at 7 & 8.

1.JPG


once all these are done, you need to remove the inner cv boot, if you still have stock cvs boots they are hell hard to get off.

once the boots loose, what i did was bend the arm that connects to the hub down to remove the cv and voila.. hopefully

similiar thing is done on the other side, but you DONT have to remove the cv boot, just pull the cv and it should pop out.

ENSURE THAT YOU HAVE DRAINED THE GEARBOX OIL, cos it will drip everywhere

this is all that i can remember, good luck

after replacing the cvs car doesnt make any sound when turning but theres still a sound from moving from a stand still in gear 1, which is audible through 2 & 3.

i think the box is stuffed, shall try to diagnose it another day
 

CMF_Yom

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FYI both CV's WILL just pop out of the gearbox with some gentle encouragement in the form of wobbling and levering. Brake caliper and steering rack end also don't HAVE to be taken off. But it is generally easier to remove the steering rod from the hub as it allows that bit more useful movement.

Its nice to see people getting in there and giving it a go themselves. Its not hard hey. :)
 

CMF_lam.666

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so both sides will pop out and you don't have to take the boots off? wish i knew about that earlier, thats probably where the grinding noise is coming

thanks yom
 

CMF_Yom

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Unlikely. THe CV will be seated correctly. If it wasn't you'd be leaving a trail of gearbox oil.

The grinding could be internal to the gearbox but most likely its got something to do with the hubs. Check around them for grinding noises.

CV grinding could be dirt/lack of grease in the joints. If this is the case you better start looking for CV reconditioners.
 

CMF_Snoopy

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Never use reconditioned outer c.v joints. I have seen some very bad failures, like the outer casing of the joint braking open. Reco inners are ok as they don't get very much wear (unless someone lets the boot break & road grime scores the groves). Seriouly new joints and shafts are not that expensive (you can buy them as complete shafts with new outer & reco inner joints for around $140 - $160).
 

CMF_lam.666

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was afraid you were going to say that, thanks snoopy

the cvs i installed were from a slx non abs and i get the abs light now..

still brakes though and nothing has fallen off... yet
 

CMF_Yom

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Yeh thats because you would notice a little ring with teeth around it on the outer CV on the old shafts. That thing is part of how the ABS reads which wheels are locking up.
 

CMF_Yom

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It should bother you.

If you have an accident and your insurer finds out that your ABS wasnt active at the time of the accident you could find yourself with a void insurance policy.
 
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